01 sport - 4.0 SOHC STS turbo charged (Project complete)

[Turdle]

Exhaust gasses, plus a bit more back pressure might mean you need a metal one.

 

[Jakee]

So you think the metal one from your V8 could work?

 

[Jakee]

It looks like the switch from metal to plastic was made due to electro interference.

In my case, the failure appears to be the hose slipped off and the hot exhaust gases attacked the outside of the plastic housing. This explains the slight "hiss" I’ve been hearing at part throttle.

I'm going to use the plastic replacement and secure the hoses so they won't pop off.

 

[Turdle]

Oh-
sorry, I didn't get an emai for this thread--

I would use a metal one-if the connector will work, I would think it would be ok
you are generating more exhaust heat. That is exhaust gas going through those hoses.

 

[Jakee]

If this one fails, I'll use the metal version. Thanks for the heads-up for the metal version; I didn't know this was out there.


I had a lot of problems here lately.

First - the oil in the intercooler because of me forgetting to turn on the scavenge pump.

Second - the DPFE sensor failure.

Third, I noticed the BOV is not completely shut at idle.

Forth - the tuning problem with the timing (Probably related to one of the other problems - Oil in the intercooler = contaminated intake charge and soaked MAF meter.)

Fifth - I purchased an indicator light; the instructions said to drill a 1-2" hole, I did and it's just a little big. This was done in my center console so now I have to think of a way to fix this.

Sixth - was changing the plugs and the cheap JBA wires broke.

Seventh – the seal on my rear end where the drive shaft enters is leaking. Dad-gum-it!


However, on a positive note, I believe I'm over the hump with most of these problems. Most are fixed but it does get frustrating. So, to anyone out there, keep in mind things are going to happen. A bunch of little things add up and get pretty dang frustrating.

I’ve ordered a Turbo XS boost controller and Oil catch can, an aluminum coolant expansion tank and power steering tank. New plug wires and a set of NGK plugs that are one step colder than stock. By the way, the one step colder range is a plug that is used by the 4.6 2 valve motor. There are probably things I’m forgetting but I think I have a million dollar explorer now, which makes no financial sense what-so-ever. I just can't wait for the problems to end so I can enjoy this!!! - Sorry for the rant and negativity.

 

[CDW6212R]

Keep at it, I know the feeling sometimes.

 

[jah81592]

Weird (on the dpfe) sensor. I have run mine successfully for 65K miles and no failure. Hmmmm. Good luck with everything. I haven't had alot of time to be on the forums but it looks as if you are still in the growing pains section of the project. I remember those days. I just had problems in different areas. As far as swapping in the tranny, it is the most difficult project I have ever taken on. Tuning is still in the testing phase. Please note that this has never been done before me. Once I get a tune finalized everything else would be pretty straight forward. BTW-when you get everything cleaned up shoot me over some logs and I will adjust accordingly. Contact me directly before you do. Later-j

 

[Jakee]

I did a little testing on the STS PVC system and here is what I concluded. The testing I did was to blow thru one side of the valve to see what happens when the valve is switched on. At the same time, I had a friend blow thru the opposite end.

The STS actuator valve is very good and works perfectly. The valve actually acts like a check valve for the boost coming in thru the intake so you can take that little brass check valve included with the kit and throw it as far as you can. You don't need a replacement.

So here is how it works; when the hobbs switch see’s 1 lb of boost the actuator valve switches the PVC flow to vent thru the atmosphere, and also acts as a check valve to not let boost go into the crankcase. Again, you do not need the little brass check valve to stop the boost from entering the crankcase because the actuator valve does this already.

The reason I wanted to concentrate on this was because a lot of people have problems with there STS supplied PVC system and think that it is junk. Just do a search and you’ll see what I mean. All they really have to do is make sure the lines are going in right, and take the little brass valve out and all there problems would be solved.

 

[Jakee]

1) Installed a new BBK 70MM TB on the x yesterday.
2) Have a new turbo XS Manual boost controller to install
3) Cleaned out the oil from the intake
4) All problems are fixed and getting ready to re-tune. I should be able to start adding timing to it soon. As soon as I can do this, I'll up the boost a little and call it good. I'm going to the track tomorrow but I'm not running the truck....yet

 

[Jakee]

Okay - I got everything back together, and took the truck for a drive to the local track. I didn't run the truck but was just meeting the locals there and getting an idea of the people that hang out their so I can start running my truck. Everything went well. The truck drove great for the 100 mile round trip but when I got into my drive way I heard a ticking noise. It turned out to be my power steering pump. So, I'll be installing a new unit - Just one more thing that will be new. DANNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNG IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[CDW6212R]

Don't be mad, not yet anyway. You have no idea how much that PS pump costs. You better save it, buy a used one, or shop around a lot. I gave almost $150 for mine three years ago, and the 302 PS pump isn't much cheaper.

 

[Jakee]

I'm not mad, just frustrated. It'll all get worked out someday - I'm just having a streak of bad luck.

As for the pump, I have one on order from the local NAPA.

I believe the reason it failed was 1) it was ready to go, and 2) There was a little paint build-up in the bore when I re-installed the pulley and this must have scraped off and got behind where the pulley seats on one side. This caused the pulley to run-out by a few thousands. I noticed it but didn't think it would hurt anything. Well, evidently it did hurt the pump because there is around a 1/4" end play in it now. LOL

 

[CDW6212R]

When I swapped balancers and an overdrive alternator pulley, the belt was off a little. That created a noise in my PS pump after a few days. I noticed the same end play, then the belt. I removed the alternator pulley and ground it down about 1/16" which corrected the belt alignment. My noise went away after about a week. My pump was new plus about 20k miles.

Go to Ford and see if they now sell the special teflon seal ring for the fittings. They didn't sell them three years ago, but I've read that recently they did. You need the seal, they are one use only and keep the joint from leaking. Regards,

 

[Jakee]

Was surfing around and found this picture that got me thinking.

Would having an upper intake like this do any good for a turbo charged application? What are your thoughts?

 

[CDW6212R]

That is a short runner intake, best for high rpm and high boost applications, so yes.

 

[Jakee]

I'm proud to say - NO MORE PROBLEMS!! (knock on wood) The trucks been running like a champ for the past week and I've got the tune nailed, and started adding timing. I turned the boost up to 8 LBS and I'll stay here for awhile - This thing screams! I'll try and get some vids up soon.

 

[frickea86]

Please do, awesome to hear Jakee, congrats on ironing everything out.

Maybe someday I'll be at the same point...

 

[IZwack]

This pic and the accompanying question that was posted has me thinking -- cant you just make your own plenum? I mean much like how people make headers from a set of header flange and tubes, cant you do the same for the intake so that it bends, points, or flows however you want it?

Another idea -- if you do make your own plenum, cant you just put the turbo up there so its all one short stacked unit with the air cleaner at the top, then below that the turbo, then the MAS, then the plenum? Well maybe not all in one vertical stack since that might be a bit tall, but still keep everything up there. Then the headers would just curl up over the valve covers and towards the turbo.

Just a thought experiment ..
[/hijack]

 

[CDW6212R]

Those kind of plenums are great for boosted engines, any arrangement should be fine. You do want an intercooler for any boost over about4psi(nothing), so figure on routing the piping around the bay.

 

[Jakee]

A few more pics with a few changes.