I removed the pan to drain the fluid, the original pan gasket was still in place. The pan actually states that the gasket is reusable, but I would certainly recommend replacing it after signs of seepage. Here you can see the factory filler tube plug that is perfectly normal finding in the pan. This can be thrown away. It usually also means that the fluid and filter most-likely haven't been changed its entire life. The magnet helps collect harmful metal shavings from wear. It does have some signs of wear, but I did not find chunks, clutch material, or other foreign matter that would suggest any problems. The fluid color was actually not terrible and did not have any burnt smell.
10mm 1/4" drive wobble socket with speed handle makes removing the pan a breeze. You DO NOT WANT to remove the pan bolts with any power tool. Once drained, replace the pan and snug up 6-8 bolts.
Because the access plate is not the easiest point to remove the torque converter nuts, removing the starter gains access to a better angle to get an impact to remove them. Using a wrench here will be a challenge as the torque converter moves. Using a 15/16" socket 1/2" drive with extension will allow you to turn the crankshaft at the front of the motor to align each of the four torque converter nuts. Be sure to mark one of the threads and the flywheel plate for future re-alignment when installing the transmission. This is important because the torque converter and motor have been balanced harmonically. I used some spray paint to make my mark.
The tools I used to remove the trans:
16mm 1/2" drive wobble socket with 36" extension (not pictured) using impact wrench for the bell housing bolts.
13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, 18mm 1/2" drive wobble sockets.
10mm, 13mm, 15mm, and 19mm 3/8" drive sockets.
5/8" line wrench and 3/4" thin wrench for the cooler lines.
A few other hand tools were used including a prybar to help separate the trans from motor.
After removing everything except two bell housing bolts, I was about to drop $50 on a jack adapter to safely remove the trans. Instead I opted to save the $$$ by using what I believe to be an s10 crossmember. It fit snug on my jack with the plate removed. I used a hammer to help make it solid and tight.
I used towing straps attached to the jack to keep it balanced and small boards between the jack and the pan to reduce damage and give more contact area to the pan to distribute the weight.
To ensure the torque converter from falling out. I used a piece of steel held in place by the inspection plate bolts. I guess you could use the inspection plate, but it's not what I prefer.
I gently set the trans as well as other parts from it onto a drip pan for cleaning and organization.
Be sure to plug the cooler lines and the filler tube to make sure no cleaner, dirt, or other contaminants get into the transmission.
I played around with a spot weld cutter that I got from Harbor Freight the other day, it seems to work quick and effective!!! I will post pics in the future when it comes time to remove the additional panels and firewall section.
Next up will be the engine removal.
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