1997 Ford Explorer - V8 - 5.0 - AWD

Hello Explorer Fans.

I have been on the forums for some time and have extensively read many threads. I have enjoyed the forums so far. Now I have a question of opinion for you all.

I currently own 97' V6 SOHC Sport and I love it. I was going to SAS it, but Id rather do it to a V8 Explorer, plus, manual TC's are readily available for the swap.

To get to the point, I'm looking at a 97' 5.0 AWD Explorer (166,000 miles) (for a few hundred bucks). It's a solid vehicle, straight but its flashing a few codes. I looked up the codes here on the forums and it appears to be a "simple" fix. It idles well, but has an obvious 'lumpiness' to it. When you accelerate under load, you can sort of hear and feel it. The codes I got were P1132 - Lack of Oxygen Sensor indicates Rich and P1131 - Lack of Heater Oxygen Sensor indicates Lean. Both appear to be O2 sensor issues which may not be that big a deal. The trans seems to shift well with no obvious issues.

I'm very mechanical in nature (I work on my own cars/trucks) and fabrication of all I want to do...is what I do.

I just wanted a few opinions on the success of fixing this issue and any potential things I should look for before i pull the trigger and pick this thing up.

Thanks everyone.

 

[WormsExplorer]

That's an Awesome score sir.

 

[Spudhut]

Need some confirmation. Im in the process of doing BW4406 swap. I pulled the AWD TC and OMG...in my face - a bucket load of trans fluid came out. From what I have read the only seal is the flat gasket seal that is between the 4406 TC (input shaft seal) and the tail shaft housing....please confirm.

I believe I'm going to install a new input shaft seal on the TC since its already out.

Helpful info (Napa Part Numbers):

• TC Input Shaft Seal - SKF - 18771 (98/2005) or 18892 (98/2002)
• TC Input Shaft Seal - Timken 3946 (98/2001)
• TC to Trans Gasket Seal - SKF 99817

Thread I found: 1999 Explorer Transfer Case Leak

 

[Spudhut]

Started BW4406 Swap

Mocking Up Stick location using factory floor mounted boot from F150

Leg doesn't 'feel' the stick or mount in this position. Still unsure on the bulkiness; may consider other options.,,,

 

[WormsExplorer]

WOW I like this write up. This is the 1st picture that I have been able to see that has someone sitting there with the Shifter there. Thank you Gave me visual help

 

[Spudhut]

Pretty excited today - Friend of mine says he's getting rid of some wheels and tires and told me to come by if I want them...Are you kidding me! Perfect for my project. 33" x 16" on nice Jeep wheels - 5 of them...not 4!. Offset may be off, but should be perfect for the time being w/ spacers.

I couldn't walk away for just 'free'...Looks like a new tube bumper is in order for his Jeep TJ.

- Can anyone shed feedback on the trans seal question asked above a few posts ago...Thanks!

 

[WormsExplorer]

That is an AWESOME Score.

 

[Spudhut]

Can't find the spring pin for the alignment hole and the off one is stuck in AWD transfer case. so I decided to make one out of mild steel just big/thick enough to tap in lightly to hold. Anyone see an issue with this method?

Cut to size and with a drill and thin belt sander... Makes for even and round shaping. Don't have a lathe so I must improvise. Worked well!

I'll be replacing input seal tomorrow.

 

[Mbrooks420]

As long as the pin is relatively snug, you’re good to go.

 

[Spudhut]

Getting a little quiet here on the thread ....

Busy weekend. I was all about getting the BW 4406 swapped in the Explorer this weekend. After a frustrating week of trying to shoehorn that beast in and the constant falling of Arkansas clay in my face, I decided to take the 'easy' route and drop everything out of the way and pressure wash the thing Saturday morning. I cant stand caked on mud and dirt. Every part I touched under the Explorer resulted in dirt in my face and raised frustrations.

Other than the exhaust bolts - the rest came out with ease.

Pulled tank skid plate

Painted and installed

While I had paint out - decided to hit the calipers before rebuilds - I like to use Rustoleum Satin Black from the quart can and spray on using HVLP touch up spray gun. Get better coverage and more consistent.

 

[Spudhut]

Finally got the BW4406 in. Feels great to be this far into this thing.

BW4406 Installed - I removed the exhaust to help with clearance. I also dropped the tank and pan so that there was nothing but wide open space to maneuver this thing around. The exhaust bolts were a real pain in the .

The next group of photos will be various shots around the TC to give any perspective not seen before:

Front gas tank bracket: This bracket will need to be bent inward right where the arrow is pointing to clear TC. Its simple to remove and reinstall. I did not have to prop gas tank when I took the bracket out. The strap is plenty strong. If you do drop the tank, especially w/ fuel in it, get help Getting the bolt from the strap to the frame to tighten is a real pain in the #%&&...one of those - "Wish I had an arm growing from the center of my chest" moments.

Top of TC near speed sensor and gas tank for clearance perspective:

Speed sensor plugged in. Now I don't know if either vehicle has different plugs, when I pulled the TC, I cut all the plugs off to take with me. The one I got has a 90 degree boot on it. Clears nicely over the tank.

Explorer plug on right - F150 unit i got on left. I will have to extend wiring to reach BW4406

Quick view of BW4406 shift linkage:

 

[Spudhut]

Shot from rear end to BW4406 -

Shot from front of vehicle looking back. Looks like I will have to modify the transmission crossmember

 

[Spudhut]

Now that the BW4406 was installed, I could work on the small items that have been on my list of "To-Do's". I added a 2" body lift to the Explorer to give more spacing above everything. I was leary at first if I wanted to install one, but, its paying off in dividends. Lots of extra space and ease of reaching certain spaces under the vehicle.

I needed to drop the radiator. I did not want to cut the fan shroud. It was important to me to keep the factory alignment of things so If I needed to replace anything, it was a 'simple' swap.

First I cut the original radiator mounts off so the radiator could easily drop down the 2" I needed. I also wanted to retain the rubber mounts. I cut the mount right at the base and flipped them and then re-installed the rubber cushion to the mount. It took a bit of trimming to get it 'spot on'. Here it is mocked up in place - I will be adding a gusset as well for strength.

I needed to create some drop down brackets for the upper mount. I wanted to use a cage nut to make it easy to bolt the radiator in place without having to do a reach around with a nut and wrench when bolting the lower mount. I used some old cage nuts I picked up at Grainger years ago.

I used some 1 1/2" strap and drilled 2 holes. I mocked the radiator with the fan and shroud installed to ensure proper fitment and alignment of everything at 'final' assembly before I drilled 2nd lower hole.

The lower hole will be drilled larger to accept flush mounted cage nut.

I used an old Witney punch to make holes for spot welding:

Brackets with cage nuts spot welded in place:

Bracket installed: I may have to notch out the 'wire way' on the core support to move the loom forward just a smidge to so the bracket is not heavily leaning on them causing any future problems.

Radiator in place prior to mounting. These cage nuts take 1/4x28 bolts

Even with the drop, the opening in the core support is spot on for full air flow.

 

[WormsExplorer]

AWESOME write up sir. Can't wait to see what she looks like completed

 

[Spudhut]

Thanks @WormsExplorer

 

[CDW6212R]

Great pictures, thanks for more views. Whew, pressure washing under a vehicle is no fun, that would have made for a great video.

It is too clean though, go play in some mud and fix that when you're done.

 

[Spudhut]

Filled in the gap above the radiator w/ some aluminum I had laying around to ensure full airflow through the coolers.

 

[WormsExplorer]

How does it look on the bottom from the front? I have noticed our Radiators are kinda low to begin with right?

 

[Spudhut]

@WormsExplorer - It may appear to hang lower, but its actually sitting the the factory position in the frame with the body up 2" higher. Ill get a shot this evening for you to see.

 

[WormsExplorer]

@WormsExplorer - It may appear to hang lower, but its actually sitting the the factory position in the frame with the body up 2" higher. Ill get a shot this evening for you to see.

Thank you sir.

 

[CDW6212R]

Excellent, and well thought out project.