1999 Mounty 5.0 aka My Great Bad Idea

[410Fortune]

Heat thay bolt with map gas before you weld the nut

I have a hard time getting enough heat into the bolt with just welding on a nut. Could never get a strong enough weld or enough heat into the bolt to be successful

So I started using a piece of flat stock instead of a nut. It allows me to drill a hole larger then the stud and when you weld the flat stock to the stud you can get all the way around and really get some heat in there. I have 100% success rate with this method. Yes the flat stock is used to get the bolt free and turning then sometimes you have to cut it off so you can rotate it fully

Page 2 of the 07 ranger
Build I extracted broken stud from 5.0 and showed the technique

Post in thread '410Custom's builds a 2007 Ranger V8 - custom truck build - Project "Ranger Premier"'
410Custom's builds a 2007 Ranger V8 - custom truck build - Project "Ranger Premier"

 

[97Sandbox]

I like that technique! If there was more bolt available, I'd try it on the intake bolts, but the angle of the heads seems like it would force the bar to bind against it. I bet that'll work great for the exhaust manifold stud though!

 

[410Fortune]

You can always bend the flat stock to clear, the key part is the heat transfer to the stud and getting enough weld to actually hold

Once the stud turns 1/8 or 1/4 of a rotation you are home free and they will usually back the rest of the way out with just vise grips

 

[97Sandbox]

Sounds good. I'll give it a try if/when the bolts snap off. I put some decent heat into them, but could only weld 2/3 of the way around, so I won't be shocked if it isn't enough to hold.

 

[Turdle]

Brake fluid into those threads while you wait. Just a drop or 2. Then brake cleaner when it's out to prevent further corrosion

 

[97Sandbox]

Woohoo! Intake bolts are all free and no heads were pulled

Also got my water pump bolts and hose clamps re-plated

Everything came out nice, I have to start getting OEM bolts re-plated more often!

 

[Josh P]

Sex in a box.

 

[Turdle]

Woohoo! Intake bolts are all free and no heads were pulled
View attachment 446001

Also got my water pump bolts and hose clamps re-plated
View attachment 446002
Everything came out nice, I have to start getting OEM bolts re-plated more often!

Ok, how and where does this playing?

 

[97Sandbox]

I work at a big metal finisher here in Nebraska and a coworker helped me get these ran on the side of some other stuff. I wire brushed and blasted the parts ahead of time and baked everything after to burn out the hydrogen. It's quite a process!

 

[97Sandbox]

I broke the last header bolt on the right side and stripped the head off the accessible downpipe bolt. I cut through the bolt and thought I could spin the manifold to get to the other bolt, but it doesn't want to spin.

Any tips for getting to that bolt?

On the left side, all eight bolts/studs came out without issue.

The downpipe bolts on this side look accessible from underneath, so I'll give them a try tomorrow.

 

[410Fortune]

Torch lol

Nice work!
Heat the cast manifold to break the corrosion seal on those down pipe bolts

I get all 4 of them from underneath, the inner on the pass side is the trickiest but with the right length extension and a wobbly you can get a hood angle on it from next to the cat converter

If it snaps well then at least you can take the whole manifold to the bench

Those waterpump
Bolts look awesome … I’m now packing g up a big box of bolts to send to you! Hahahaha

 

[97Sandbox]

I get all 4 of them from underneath, the inner on the pass side is the trickiest but with the right length extension and a wobbly you can get a hood angle on it from next to the cat converter

If it snaps well then at least you can take the whole manifold to the bench

Sounds like I need to get back under the passenger's side and poke around to find a clear path then. The bolts are so crusty, I don't think there's any chance of reusing them, so I just assume hit them with the impact and let them snap. I can get better access to all the broken bolts with the manifolds off.

The manifolds won't be going back on if I can help it. I just want to use them to make jigs so I can start cutting up the used mustang headers I bought and make a set of torque monster-inspired DIY headers.

The only problem with plating some of the bolts is now I want to plate all the bolts haha. That'd take a lot of careful organization and hours at the blast cabinet though. I'm trying not to get bogged down in every detail on the Mounty -- don't forget we've got a manual swap to do if I ever get the engine back together!

 

[97Sandbox]

Crawling under the passenger's side, I could see the inner bolt, but could not find a path to get to it. I'm not saying it can't be done, but between the trans dip stick tube and the heat shield on the floorboard, my wobbly extensions were just not wobbly enough. I spent a while hammering to spin the manifold and I think I may be able to cut the bolt with my die grinder now.

On the driver's side, it's a straight shot to the front bolt from underneath -- to bad the hex head rounded off. Do you guys pull the front drive shaft to get to the rear bolt? I couldn't get at it with my extensions, the shaft seemed perfectly in the way.

These manifolds are all that's in the way of getting fresh gaskets and other parts installed and starting my header experiment. It's getting dangerously tempting to Sawzall the downpipes off at the cats and just re-weld them later!

 

[410Fortune]

You should put the truck high in the air makes life easier getting those down pipe bolts

Of course you can chop the pipes up too and weld later, but it would be best to just remove or cut the bolts

Welcome to my world! As these trucks get older these bolts get more stubborn!

 

[97Sandbox]

You should put the truck high in the air makes life easier getting those down pipe bolts

Of course you can chop the pipes up too and weld later, but it would be best to just remove or cut the bolts

Welcome to my world! As these trucks get older these bolts get more stubborn!

I was cursing myself last night for not pulling up on ramps before starting this job. I'm skinny enough to roll under a stock height Ex on a creeper, but it's tough to turn long-handle wrenches like that. I'll get it up on jack stands tonight and start getting crafty with die grinders.

I think the driver's side access should be okay with the straight die grinder. Passenger's side I'll try to sneak in with my 90 deg grinder, but it's really tight over there. There's so many darn heat shields!

 

[410Fortune]

Giving yourself the room to work and enough light is key!

 

[97Sandbox]

Giving yourself the room to work and enough light is key!

Yeah, working outdoors at night is not going in my favor. At least the moon was bright last night haha. My M12 Rover is the only thing allowing me to see what I'm doing in these tight spots -- those things are handy!

 

[97Sandbox]

Managed to cut part way through the rear left exhaust bolt then snap it off with the impact. The front bolt (which I rounded the head of yesterday) seems completely inaccessible. I'm really not sure how I can cut the bolt without removing brake lines.

After getting the Mounty onto jack stands, I finally got a socket onto the inner right exhaust bolt, but then that head rounded off too. I think if I remove the starter, I may be able to get at that bolt with a sawzall from below though.

This is becoming the toughest exercise in perseverance I have ever experienced.

 

[410Fortune]

What sockets are you using? Bolts are standard not metric

Hang in there!! We have been down this road a few times around here too eventually I bought a torch and a welder and an induction heater and map gas and special sockets and…. All about winning these wars! You are a soldier hang in there it will not beat you!

 

[97Sandbox]

1/2" 6 point impact socket for these bolts.

I looked at it more and think I can sneak in with the sawzall on the left side too with the ac compressor out of the way. I'll give it a try later.