2000 AWD Xploder from Turbo back to NA

[Turdle]

Going to replace my ABS wheel sensors in the front.. From the look of it I'll need to pull the wheels and calipers/rotors?

Yeah, the shield has to come off I believe

 

[willzilla]

Yeah, the shield has to come off I believe

Ok, thank you! That's what I thought

 

[CDW6212R]

You have AWD right? Don't touch the ABS sensors, they should never fail before the hubs themselves. Those ABS sensors are protected completely, they are internal with the hub bearings, sealed from all outside debris. Only the wires are susceptible to damage, the bearings should fail before the ABS sensors.

If you have a 4WD/AWD front ABS sensor issue, suspect the wires, or the hub bearings.

 

[Turdle]

You have AWD right? Don't touch the ABS sensors, they should never fail before the hubs themselves. Those ABS sensors are protected completely, they are internal with the hub bearings, sealed from all outside debris. Only the wires are susceptible to damage, the bearings should fail before the ABS sensors.

If you have a 4WD/AWD front ABS sensor issue, suspect the wires, or the hub bearings.

Agreed, but I add suspect rear speed-sensor on rear diff also.

Probably a bad hub though.

With weight off tire, grab at 6oclock and 12 o'clock, try to wiggle. If it wiggles , hub is worn out

 

[willzilla]

Ahhh.. Yes I do have AWD.. And I replaced the sensor on the rear diff a little while back with no change. When I run the full chassis codes I get "C1155: Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure" and also a "P0500: Vehicle Speed Sensor "A" Circuit".

 

[willzilla]

Ok, looking over install process... Seems easy enough.. May just replace both hubs (once I go test them) if I find either having wiggle as I figure if one pooped out on me the other probably would join it soon anyways, lol.

What size socket for the axle nut? Also, checking Rock Auto I see a million variations and none from Motorcraft for "AWD", just 4WD. I do see some from MOOG, ACDELCO, etc, for AWD but there are some variations for AWD it seems and also some AWD grouped with 4WD? With or without vacuum hub locks, etc? Lol. Which one of these would you all recommend going with if it turns out hub IS indeed what I need to replace?

2000 FORD EXPLORER 5.0L V8 Wheel Bearing & Hub | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

Thank you!

 

[CDW6212R]

Rock Auto and Amazon are great places for the front hubs. Any 4WD or AWD part made for the 95-01's will work. I like SKF, Ford, or Timken. The SKF I think are the best, but there are basically two levels, the knock off crap brands, and the three I mentioned. Some may be as good, but it;s hard to know what brands have come up to the top level.

BTW, I got the last SKF hub they had last month on Amazon, I've had it in my saved list of my cart since I bought the last pair I needed. The prior hubs were $145 each, RA had them for $155 + shipping at the time. This last hub was $115 from Amazon, and since then they list as will ship soon 2-3 weeks.



The supply chain issues are not getting better from what I see. I have a pair of wheels ordered(from Year One) for my Ranchero, classic Magnum 500 15x8's. I paid for them in June, was supposed to ship around middle of August. Now Summit(ordered other pair last month) lists their ship date at mid January(was end of September), while the first pair now they say mid December.

 

[Turdle]

Usually 32 mm, close to 1 1/4" which is what I use

 

[willzilla]

Rock Auto and Amazon are great places for the front hubs. Any 4WD or AWD part made for the 95-01's will work. I like SKF, Ford, or Timken. The SKF I think are the best, but there are basically two levels, the knock off crap brands, and the three I mentioned. Some may be as good, but it;s hard to know what brands have come up to the top level.

BTW, I got the last SKF hub they had last month on Amazon, I've had it in my saved list of my cart since I bought the last pair I needed. The prior hubs were $145 each, RA had them for $155 + shipping at the time. This last hub was $115 from Amazon, and since then they list as will ship soon 2-3 weeks.



The supply chain issues are not getting better from what I see. I have a pair of wheels ordered(from Year One) for my Ranchero, classic Magnum 500 15x8's. I paid for them in June, was supposed to ship around middle of August. Now Summit(ordered other pair last month) lists their ship date at mid January(was end of September), while the first pair now they say mid December.

Ok, awesome, thank you! It looks like the Timken are $130 or so on Amazon and a few bucks more on Rockauto, not bad.

I just went outside and jacked up the front end and got the wheels up off of the ground and tried to shake the crap out of both wheels... 12 o clock and 6 o clock, nothing, for either wheel, and neither wheel side to side either (checking tie rods I suppose for side to side).

 

[CDW6212R]

I haven't had a hub I bought go bad yet, the most I've put on a pair was 120k miles, my Mountaineer. My black 98 had a bad hub when I got it, at 158k miles it was likely the original. Bad hubs won't always make noise while driving, spinning them by hand and yanking as you did on the truck usually discovers a bad bearing. If you can't tell, it might be best to go by mileage and age, what you know of their history; change them if it's unknown etc.

 

[willzilla]

I haven't had a hub I bought go bad yet, the most I've put on a pair was 120k miles, my Mountaineer. My black 98 had a bad hub when I got it, at 158k miles it was likely the original. Bad hubs won't always make noise while driving, spinning them by hand and yanking as you did on the truck usually discovers a bad bearing. If you can't tell, it might be best to go by mileage and age, what you know of their history; change them if it's unknown etc.

I went ahead and ordered both front SKF hubs from Amazon... Should be here Friday so I'll see about getting them installed this weekend. Trying to get the Xploder is a good enough state for my oldest to drive a bit to/from practice before she starts morning practices in a few weeks, lol.. She may suffer with no AC for a little while at first though, haha.

 

[willzilla]

It looks like my hubs will be here Friday... hope to get them installed this weekend. Weather appears to be nice, no rain, and not super hot (low 90s only, haha).

 

[CDW6212R]

I hope they come and it goes smoothly.

The hub nuts originally were one size, that you might find printed somewhere. The aftermarket hubs don't all have the same size nuts, and some are metric, some SAE. So pull your center caps now and find the best fitting socket you can, in case you have to go buy one. I had to get some odd large size that I didn't have for the hub nuts on my 95 Crown Vic(aftermarket), that one may have been 34mm IIRC.

 

[willzilla]

I hope they come and it goes smoothly.

The hub nuts originally were one size, that you might find printed somewhere. The aftermarket hubs don't all have the same size nuts, and some are metric, some SAE. So pull your center caps now and find the best fitting socket you can, in case you have to go buy one. I had to get some odd large size that I didn't have for the hub nuts on my 95 Crown Vic(aftermarket), that one may have been 34mm IIRC.

Thank you! Good idea.. I'll be sure to double check. I have a number of decent sized socket options but better safe than sorry and scrambling!

 

[Turdle]

Usually 32 mm, close to 1 1/4" which is what I use

 

[Turdle]

1 1/4 is a tad sloppy but has worked for me, and is what I always use. 32 mm is correct size. I've never encountered a different size axle nut.

 

[CDW6212R]

I much prefer the OEM hub nuts, they are larger and have a huge integral washer. The various other brands use some cheap hardware, the first axle I bought in 2004 I think was the first which had a different nut. It was smaller and I believe the socket required was smaller on that one. I used that new nut then, but since then I don't think I've used anything but the stock nuts.

 

[willzilla]

Hubs showed up yesterday... They look of high quality

Didn't get a chance today to install but hopefully tomorrow!

 

[CDW6212R]

Get out the 3/8" drive 15mm short socket and the longest ratchet you have. I use a swivel ratchet a ton, it's over 15" long and it does great for those, and the large caliper bolts.

 

[willzilla]

Wheel hubs are replaced... ABS light seems to be gone and brakes much improved

Looking at the old and new wheel hubs the wheel speed sensor DOES look to be replacement with a single allen screw. The sensor itself did not appear to be specially sealed or anything as I was able to remove the allen bolt and pull the sensor out of the hub that I removed and it looked kind of grimy but nothing crazy.

Old hub with view of the speed sensor:

Old hub prior to removal:

New wheel hub installed:

Cleared the codes and drove it around about 10 miles or so... all seemed good to go. Drove up to Buc-cee's gas station and fueled up with some fresh gas:

Re-ran codes after my drive to see if anything popped back up... ABS light still off but am still getting a P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor "A" Circuit code (but no longer a front left wheel speed sensor code).

I'm getting a few other non ABS related codes under "Generic / Body Electronic Module codes" such as B1302 Accessory delay relay circuit failure, B1611 Rear wiper mode select switch circuit failure, and C1742 Rear sounder circuit failure.

My parking sensor switch little off light is still lit and I can't seem to get those working right even with all new parking sensors in the back, lol. Unsure why it's showing an issue with the rear wiper switch as I can turn the rear wiper on and off without a problem.

Also noticed my headlights flicker a tad hitting hard bumps on my drive so maybe a loose wire somewhere with that I need to check out as well.

Overall, some good progress.