2002 Sport Trac | Page 7 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

2002 Sport Trac

Post number 28 has been selected as best answered.

The overhead consoles… getting harder to find a good ones these days! I know some dudes repair them but I just go to the junk yard (out back) and replace with a good one. What I found is trucks with sunroofs often have overhead consoles that the display is burned out… non sunroof trucks, display works

You get really good at taking them apart and swapping bits

I’ll get the auto lamp
And mirror working posted

That’s like the 5th time this morning my phone has replaced the word wiring with working… trying to tell me something? Smart phone my ass!!!!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





That’s like the 5th time this morning my phone has replaced the word wiring with working… trying to tell me something? Smart phone my ass!!!!
Stupid auto correct.

16 Autocorrect Memes & Funny Texts ...



Again, I appreciate the effort on the diagrams. Saves me from having to buy a whole book for a truck I don't have .... yet.

Side note, the Explorer has a sunroof so it will be interesting if I need to repair the circuit board or not. Thank you for the info.
 






Auto lamps and courtesy lamps
I’ll see if I can locate the heated mirror wiring

IMG_3300.jpeg


IMG_3301.jpeg


IMG_3302.jpeg


IMG_3303.jpeg
 






Mirrors

IMG_3304.jpeg


IMG_3305.jpeg


IMG_3306.jpeg


IMG_3307.jpeg


IMG_3308.jpeg


IMG_3310.png
 












Thank you again @410Fortune and @Turdle for all the information and diagrams. Very much appreciated.

So, as promised...

Tires - 265/75R16s Americus ATRs (Walmart.com made in Taiwan) 1st hurdle passed, they balanced fine. They're a 50k tire and they were on sale, so for the price which was over half less of what a BFG AT was I thought I'd give Wally a try. Aside from the time it took they (Walmart) did a lot of extra little details compared to the Discount or Les Schwab do. Cleaned mating surfaces, anti-seized the studs, cleaned the rim edge for weights, and had a 2nd person re-check the torque.

NORMAL00081.jpg


NORMAL00084.jpg


NORMAL00090.jpg


I put some highway miles on them and they are quiet on the freeway and a low rumble on the streets. Went to the j/y and picked up the overhead console and mirror.

NORMAL00093.jpg


NORMAL00096.jpg


and the parts I hope to install sooner than later...

UCAs and LCAs l&r...

NORMAL00099.jpg


TREs; inner and outer, and front shocks

NORMAL00101.jpg


Rear shocks and sock...

NORMAL00105.jpg


NORMAL00108.jpg
 






I have front dome lamps again. But I think I'm going to buy different LEDs as the 194 LEDs are not reflecting well back into the cab.

 






Spacers installed! Rubbing on RR is now gone. :thumbsup: It really wasn't much of rubbing, it would only do it on a turn to get the truck to lean.

NORMAL00118.jpg


NORMAL00126.jpg


NORMAL00120.jpg


NORMAL00123.jpg


NORMAL00122.jpg


I probably could have looped a piece of wire to pull the plastic shield out of the way but didn't want to go that route.
 






My '04 with the 255 tires rubs like that on turns. It's been rubbing quite a bit the past week, like every time I turn a corner. The '02 doesn't rub, but it has 235s.
 






So, driving around today I decided to test the 4WD again. It worked. I did disconnect and reconnect the 4x4CM. So again, the fat electron theory applied again. But I may just bite the bullet and buy a module in the near future.
 






Thank you again @410Fortune and @Turdle for all the information and diagrams. Very much appreciated.

So, as promised...

Tires - 265/75R16s Americus ATRs (Walmart.com made in Taiwan) 1st hurdle passed, they balanced fine. They're a 50k tire and they were on sale, so for the price which was over half less of what a BFG AT was I thought I'd give Wally a try. Aside from the time it took they (Walmart) did a lot of extra little details compared to the Discount or Les Schwab do. Cleaned mating surfaces, anti-seized the studs, cleaned the rim edge for weights, and had a 2nd person re-check the torque.

View attachment 458565

View attachment 458566

View attachment 458567

I put some highway miles on them and they are quiet on the freeway and a low rumble on the streets. Went to the j/y and picked up the overhead console and mirror.

View attachment 458568

View attachment 458569

and the parts I hope to install sooner than later...

UCAs and LCAs l&r...

View attachment 458570

TREs; inner and outer, and front shocks

View attachment 458571

Rear shocks and sock...

View attachment 458572

View attachment 458573
Your going to love those Gabriel's on the rear.

Keeps the back of the truck well planted.
I had more than a 1/3 cord of fir this week and there was no sag and rode so smoothly.
 






Your going to love those Gabriel's on the rear.

Keeps the back of the truck well planted.
I had more than a 1/3 cord of fir this week and there was no sag and rode so smoothly.
How do they ride without a load?
 












The factory leaf springs have sagged and are likely negative arched. Though this rides great, it handles loads and trailers like crap the little helper coils on the Gabriel’s help put some of that load handling back
 






Hoping to work on the truck this weekend and get the body mounts done. I did notice my dr. door jamb switch doesn't illuminate the dome lamp when it's opened.

Why would Ford put the door jamb switch inside the door?

Anyway, door jamb switch ordered....
 






The drivers door master switch likely just needs to be cleaned, they get gummed up
Remove door panel
Remove dust shield
Then the switch comes out of the door lock mechanism and can be cleaned up



This video here at 5:30 he finally removes the switch you can see how it twists and comes out of its mount
This can be done with the master lock still in the door

I have fixed many door ajar lights in rangers just by cleaning these little buggers
 






So, I pulled my seats out to force myself to do the body mounts tomorrow.

I haven't look too closely yet but I've heard the forward body mounts (below the radiator l/r sides) don't wear out like the main 3 under the cab. Is this true? If they do wear out, how hard are they to get too?
 






Easiest ones to get to are the radiator support mounts
They rust out the soonest as well and usually need the most attention because they are exposed to the elements big time

All the rubber mounts deteriorate none of them are immune
 






Well, driver side upper mounts are in place and the lowers are ready to go in and I had to stop to help my wife with something. The front one was definitely easier. I think getting tired of doing stuff on the ground. To get to this point it took me 3 hours. smh. I'm sure the passenger side will be a lot easier though. I still need to clean the threads on the bolts and fasteners, so they go together easier too.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Finished the Driver side body mounts today. Too darn cold to even start the passenger side. Put the seats back in and I'll leave this until the temps warm up to the 60s. Good news is I don't rub the tires at full lock to the left anymore. The front cab mount was non-existent, but the rest were not disintegrated but bad.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top