347 RE-Power 1996 Limited AWD

As things are getting closer and closer thought I would update.

Started late last year, reading posts and asking questions. I decided to go ahead to drop in a built 347 into my 1996 explorer which has over 300,000km (almost 190,000 miles) on it. The truck still runs great BTW, and has been in the family since new and its been in my hands since last Oct.

First impulse was a cheap 1996 complete 1996 5.0L Explorer motor on fleabay. Shipped it to the engine builder to use as a donor.

It is a 347 built by Fordstrokers with a custom cam from Camshaft Innovations.

- Scat rotating assembly
- Mahle pistons
-Trick flow fast as cast 190cc heads
- comp gold rockers
- trick flow Track Heat intake.
- Torque Monster Headers built with the correct exhaust flange.

Other items of note
- 1" phenolic spacer
- 70mm accufab throttle body with modified throttle arm
- 30lb injectors
- 255lbs/hr fuel pump
- re-use the explorer intake elbow 70mm dia.
- black trick flow valve covers
- utilize some of my MAC intake

Supporting items
- 75mm Prom M MAF (Henson Performance)
- Wideband 02 sensor (Henson Performance)
- tuning (Henson)

Other to-do's
- exhaust will be re-done from the headers to cat back with mandrel bent tubing and new cats. Larger mandrel bent intake tubing to match larger diameter of MAF and TB.




This motor is being bolted to a Lentech 4R70W with 2600RPM 11.5" stall converter.

I'd like to thank many people for advice and tips but especially Don - CDW6212R for pointing me in the right direction with Fordstrokers and equally important was providing me with a custom made 28oz balancer with the explorer timing ring machined and pinned on there.

2010man for selling me his 1994 Mustang Cobra OEM crank pulley. This part is not made by ford anymore and has the same diameter of the explorer pulley but bolts to the custom 28oz balancer that Don sent me.

Also Turdle and tmsoko for answering some questions.

here it is at the engine builder


here it is at my shop, patiently waiting. mocked up driver's side header and intake.


Here is a used 70mm accufab throttle body next to a stock explorer 65mm TB. I modified the arm on the TB to match the location of the stock explorer linkage so both the throttle and cruise cables/linkages with match up.


I will post more updates as they come.

 

[ford99_1979]

They are not on the same plane. Couldn't tell you what angle each would be at.

 

[delexploder]

I know from doing rears that the u joints need side load or they vibrate and the needle bearings get chewed up. It may be with looking at but I cant remember how much angle they need. Im gonna do the swap in my sport and the mounty but not till I do the manual hubs and rebuild the front diff in the mounty

 

[vroomzoomboom]

brad, i think something was lost in translation when the drive shaft was made. they may have thought i was measuring from the first u joint, and not the second one....possibly. or i just flat out gave them the wrong measurements. what i did was use a front drive shaft from a jeep, and the cardan joint from a 95-96 sport. and yea, when i mean run out, its the amount the slip yoke extends out of the drive shaft.

Stupid question but are the front yoke and t case flange on the same plane? Perpendicular and parallel? Cause that can cause problems

thats the main reason why you want to use a double cardan joint, so your angles are not as severe.

 

[CDW6212R]

Great work Brad, very cleanly done.


BTW, how do you like the 95/96 style console insert, the ashtray portion? Have you considered the later version? I bought a used section like you have, but it needs to be cleaned and refinished. I'd like the one that is more useful of course. The later version with two odd shaped cup holders is okay, but I think I'd rather have that ashtray compartment.

 

[CDW6212R]

I know from doing rears that the u joints need side load or they vibrate and the needle bearings get chewed up. It may be with looking at but I cant remember how much angle they need. Im gonna do the swap in my sport and the mounty but not till I do the manual hubs and rebuild the front diff in the mounty

The two ends are at different heights, but the two shafts are not parallel. They should be made parallel if possible, the farther away they are increases vibration issues. That's what the double cardon joint is better at than regular u-joints.

The front differential is held in place by a steel bracket, with three bolts on the case. It would not be easy to alter the pinion angle of the front diff.

 

[ford99_1979]

Great work Brad, very cleanly done.


BTW, how do you like the 95/96 style console insert, the ashtray portion? Have you considered the later version? I bought a used section like you have, but it needs to be cleaned and refinished. I'd like the one that is more useful of course. The later version with two odd shaped cup holders is okay, but I think I'd rather have that ashtray compartment.

Thanks Don..

This is the console that came with the truck so I have not considered other years. I really like the one I have for functionality. I have 2 cup holders the ash tray is used for coins and I also run my IPhone cable from inside the lid and can close the lid hiding the cable when not in use.

The Kleenex tissue holder I ditched and put a black painted plastic face where the hole was and it houses my sub amp gain knob and one aux switch.

On the passenger side I have a 3m attached suction disk which I attach my phone holder to. So the phone is close to reach and sight.

So again I really like this console. One thing that bugs me is an intermittent click from underneath the cubby on the underside of the console. I didn't have a chance to investigate what electronic module is making the noise.

 

[CDW6212R]

I had my pieces painted years ago in a group buy from Phoenix Imaging, a carbon fiber look. I like it but for the cost you have to be sure you want to have a part done, thus my question. I think I'll have it done since I like the ashtray I have in my Lincoln console, same place.

 

[ford99_1979]

Great work Brad, very cleanly done.


BTW, how do you like the 95/96 style console insert, the ashtray portion? Have you considered the later version? I bought a used section like you have, but it needs to be cleaned and refinished. I'd like the one that is more useful of course. The later version with two odd shaped cup holders is okay, but I think I'd rather have that ashtray compartment.

Thanks Don..

This is the console that came with the truck so I have not considered other years. I really like the one I have for functionality. I have 2 cup holders the ash tray is used for coins and I also run my IPhone cable from inside the lid and can close the lid hiding the cable when not in use.

The Kleenex tissue holder I ditched and put a black painted plastic face where the hole was and it houses my sub amp gain knob and one aux switch.

On the passenger side I have a 3m attached suction disk which I attach my phone holder to. So the phone is close to reach and sight.

So again I really like this console. One thing that bugs me is an intermittent click from underneath the cubby on the underside of the console. I didn't have a chance to investigate what electronic module is making the noise.

 

[delexploder]

The two ends are at different heights, but the two shafts are not parallel. They should be made parallel if possible, the farther away they are increases vibration issues. That's what the double cardon joint is better at than regular u-joints.

The front differential is held in place by a steel bracket, with three bolts on the case. It would not be easy to alter the pinion angle of the front diff.

Thats what I was wondering. So the flange on the case is lower and farther outboard than the front yoke? If so on that short of a shaft I could see the problem even with a double cardon joint. I wonder if a little indexing would help. And by the way im very familiar with the stock setup just haven't seen the 4406 installed in an x in person yet

 

[ford99_1979]

Tires are on

Got the new tires on. 285/70R17 Goodyear Duratracs. Looks really good. I needed 1.25" wheel spacers to clear UCA and swaybar with these wheels. I also need to trim the running boards and put them back on. Would be nice to clean it but the weather took a turn obviously.

 

[CDW6212R]

That looks great, it's a fine fit, size of tire.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

that does look good. wasnt sure what it would look like lifted, but daddy likes! oh, btw. was watching the stampeders game on sunday. sorry couldnt help but laugh at the dumping you guys got! lol

 

[ford99_1979]

ya don't rub it in. The weather change has sucked. About 20cm (about 8" for you southern folks) came down Sunday/Monday. On the plus side we will get a chinook soon enough and it will all be gone, that's how Calgary weather works.

I will get better pictures when its cleaned up with running boards back on. They are very functional especially when my little ones have to climb into Daddy's truck. I have 3 kids that are 4 yrs and under. That means I have 3 car seats in the back and YES they fit! Not only that they will somewhat stop some of the crap the new wider "boots" will fling up on the truck.

 

[ford99_1979]

Hasn't warmed up enough to clean the truck. Re-installed the side steps and I did do some trimming to the "tupperware" as people like to say. Also installed the new front splash shields that were a part of the performance accessory gap gaurd kit. Left them off so the guys doing the alignment at the tire shop had easy access to the UCA's.

Night shots.

 

[obie]

Very nice man! I love seeing pictures of Explorers in the snow, even if it is just a road, haha

Gotta say, I really have respect for how much work you put into this, and not even just the engine. Awesome job.

 

[Turdle]

Looking good!! I like the look of the cobra wheels with the larger tires.

 

[ford99_1979]

shocks and diff cover

|Shocks are shot, i'm pretty certain. I think the lift is having an effect on the Edelbrock shocks. So I went on a search of lift shocks for the exploder and came up with these RS5000 for 0" to +2" of lift. I don't care for the white shock look and then rusted white shock look so I scuffed and spray them something better. Also to improve on the looks and stiffness of the rear I picked up Monroe 5th shock and a cast aluminum trick flow rear diff cover to stay with the same theme under the hood. I like that it has the magnetic drain plug and cap girdles. This will improve the ratty and rusted factory diff cover.

 

[CDW6212R]

Very nice, that'll look good from behind.

 

[ford99_1979]

Very nice, that'll look good from behind.

Yes I agree.


Before

After

Got everything in the back buttoned up. Need a bolt for the 5th shock lower bolt. The thing was worn down big time where the shock bushion is located. I know i've heard some say the 5th shock is useless, but it is definitely being worked if the bolt is worn down. With the shock bolted up there is about 1/4" of play. So glad i'm replacing it. The trick flow diff cover is a nice piece for the price. Comes with ARP 12 point SS fasteners, magnetic drain plug, fill plug, girdle bolts, and paper gasket (which I did not use, went with just black RTV sealant instead).

Observation, I had the Edelbrock IAS shocks for about 3 years and they already timed out. The physical size of the Rancho rod is 5/8" shaft vs. the Edelbrock at 1/2" diameter is noticeable.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

nice. amazing how a rusty old diff cover can make everything look so bad. i know with the girdle i have, you can see it, even being lowered, and the pan on, but yours is lifted now, so it will slap you in the face if it looks like poop! good choice!