IZwack said:Tomorrow is axle assembly day. Today it was paint day, and some minor welding.
Painted axle:
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ThanksDB_1 said:Lookin sharp there IZZY![]()
The welder is a stick welder (SMAW process). The rod/electrode is a special electrode made specifically for welding cast iron. Typically, such electrodes are of high nickel content. Different companies label their electrodes differently but for Lincoln Electric, go with the Softweld 55Ni or 99Ni. Your local welding supplier should have such high Nickel rods - tho they are much more expensive than normal rods/electrodes. Also, you can only weld about half an inch at a time and have to wait 'till the cast iron cools down again - so it takes quite a bit of time.redranger4.0 said:what kind of welder you using for the castcenter? stick? mig? also what wire/rod?
As for the upper arm length, I am not sure yet but I will be sure to take measurements sometime within the next few days.redranger4.0 said:so how long did your upper arm end up being. i just went and measured roughly for mine i got 45 inches.
The back tire is the same size - 36" - but it is a little low on air so thats a small part of the problem. But I will look into those F150 leaves - thats probably the cheapest solution since those are in every junk yard.sn0border88 said:looks awsome, get some tube fenders and make it look mean.
Get some side shots tho, it may just be me but that back tire looks a little small.
Also, if the explorer leafs dont work out you could always use a small block/shackle or just put in f150 leafs.
That wont be for a while .. my to-do list:sn0border88 said:need flex shots.
dont have one - but one of my freind's neighbor has a tow truck - with one of those things on the back that can move up vertically - so that should worksn0border88 said:get a forklift.![]()
IZwack said:dont have one - but one of my freind's neighbor has a tow truck - with one of those things on the back that can move up vertically - so that should work![]()
IZwack said:My transfer-case mounted E-brake parts have arrived - I'm using a rotor for one of those 50cc dirt bikes for little kids, and the caliper and brake master cyl for the E-brake are from a 1985 Kawasaki Ninja 600.
I took some measurements of the transfer case's output flange and found a rotor that would fit. Obviously I'll have to drill the rotor to match the t-case's output flange holes but whats important is the rotor diameter - not too big as to drag on rocks and what not, but large enough so that the pads have enough braking surface to grab on. As for the caliper, I really could have gone with any rear brakes from any motorcycle, I just found this particular brake system on E-bay for cheap.JoshC said:Where in the world did you find that that would work??