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Barack Obama linked 2nd gen. SAS
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IZwack
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The brake master cylinder will be bolted to the original parking brake lever that you step on to set the parking brake. I just need to extend the brake hose cauz right now, its only like a foot long. And it needs to go from where the parking brake lever is, through the firewall, and to the transfer case's rear output flange.JoshC said:
IZwack
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Also JoshC, depending on what axle you're using on the rear, you may be able to use the older 76-78 Cadilac Eldorado calipers on your rear axle - this particular caliper is obviously hydraulic but comes with an extra lever on the side that is used as a parking brake lever.
I could have used the Eldorado caliper on my 14-bolt but I already bought the motorcycle caliper and rotor so I decided I'll just put the E-brake at the transfer case.
ElDorado caliper:
I could have used the Eldorado caliper on my 14-bolt but I already bought the motorcycle caliper and rotor so I decided I'll just put the E-brake at the transfer case.
ElDorado caliper:
IZwack
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Not 100% sure.. but check this pirate thread:JoshC said:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=223070
redranger4.0
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IZwack said:Well I havent done the brake lines yet - but I hope to sometime this week. So pls wait a few days
An update eh.. well I haven't found the time to work on it since Saturday.. and it looks like I'm going to be making my own pitman arm - so I plan to do that on Wednesday of this week.
My transfer-case mounted E-brake parts have arrived - I'm using a rotor for one of those 50cc dirt bikes for little kids, and the caliper and brake master cyl for the E-brake are from a 1985 Kawasaki Ninja 600.
sorry i meant some better pics of the fuel line relocation
IZwack
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The progress has been sloooow these past few weeks.
But among other little things (like driveshaft lenghtening, transmission mounts, etc..), the latest thing I've done was the transfer-case E-brake and the tone ring for the RABS.
Two pics of the entire thing mounted to the transfer case (minus the brake pads):
A shot of the tone ring welded to the BW-1354 output flange. The ring was made from an old Dana 44 carrier bearing race.
Two shots of the tone ring and the ABS sensor:
The sensor was kept independant of the transfer-case brake becasue the cage that the caliper is bolted to might flex when the E-brake is applied which could crash the sensor head onto the tone-ring's set of teeth. So the sensor was instead bolted directly to the transfer case's casing.
Now if some one could please school me on brake lines and fittings - there are too many freaking terms and numbers!! I am getting confused with all the flares (45 and 37 degree) and the type of fittings (SAE, JIC, AN, something called "pipe"). But basically, what I have on the vehicle is the brake master cyl, a set of calipers on all four wheels which all require a 7/16-inch banjo, and one original hard line that goes from the brake master cyl. to the back of the vehicle -- everything else needs to be made. Can some one please school me on the flares and the fittings? For example, if I were to go to a local parts store (like Napa) and buy a section of hard line, what type of fitting is on that (SAE?) and what degree of flare (45?) ?
But among other little things (like driveshaft lenghtening, transmission mounts, etc..), the latest thing I've done was the transfer-case E-brake and the tone ring for the RABS.
Two pics of the entire thing mounted to the transfer case (minus the brake pads):
A shot of the tone ring welded to the BW-1354 output flange. The ring was made from an old Dana 44 carrier bearing race.
Two shots of the tone ring and the ABS sensor:
The sensor was kept independant of the transfer-case brake becasue the cage that the caliper is bolted to might flex when the E-brake is applied which could crash the sensor head onto the tone-ring's set of teeth. So the sensor was instead bolted directly to the transfer case's casing.
Now if some one could please school me on brake lines and fittings - there are too many freaking terms and numbers!! I am getting confused with all the flares (45 and 37 degree) and the type of fittings (SAE, JIC, AN, something called "pipe"). But basically, what I have on the vehicle is the brake master cyl, a set of calipers on all four wheels which all require a 7/16-inch banjo, and one original hard line that goes from the brake master cyl. to the back of the vehicle -- everything else needs to be made. Can some one please school me on the flares and the fittings? For example, if I were to go to a local parts store (like Napa) and buy a section of hard line, what type of fitting is on that (SAE?) and what degree of flare (45?) ?
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How did you cut all the holes in the bracket and the slots in the tone ring?
IZwack
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The holes in the braket were done with a few hole saws (remember we talked about this over AIM a looong time ago.. you mentioned something about your old but trusty drill press after i had asked you how you made those holes on your front cross member)section525 said:
As for the slots in the tone ring, after two or so years of using a Dewalt angle grinder (with a cut-off wheel), I've become somewhat good at "filet"-ing steel
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Well they look orgasmic. You did a great job.
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The standard brakeline is an SAE 45* double flare. At least I'm pretty sure its SAE, but you won't get them confused with JIC and AN when you're talking brakelines to a parts counter guy. Ford has been known to use what is refered to as a bubble flare as well on the master cylinder end, this looks similar to a single flare, or the first step of a double flare and I've heard you can make a single flare work even if its not a proper bubble flare or whatever. In any event, if you want to use all pre-cut lines, simply get the standard 3/16" (7/16 thread) brakelines and use an adapter at the mastercylinder, I had an f-150 that also had a fitting at the master that was 3/16" line, but 1/2" or 5/8" thread, I used an adapter there to get to a 7/16" thread I believe...you could also get a flaring kit and have the ability to make custom lengths, but that process can be frustrating. If you go that route, do a search on the web and you'll be able to find a few different step by step, with pics, articles on using the thing. I've only used my tool a couple times so I'm not an expert. If you go to a good parts store the guy behind the counter will help you out greatly...
IZwack
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hey thanks for the reply Byrd91 
i think i've got my brake lines and hoses down ..
I am going to get the brake hoses custom made from XtremeCrawlers.com. I PM-ed them on PBB and they gave me a good quote for six hoses. The look like this and are available in many colors:
The problem I was having before was, every 'speed' company/shop out there that makes brake hoses (braided steel) typically go with the AN end fittings while the "hard" brake lines that are available at most local stores use the SAE fittings. So if I went this route, I would have needed 8 adapters -- somewhat of a "dirty" of a setup switching back and forth between AN and SAE.
So four of the custom hoses from XtremeCrawlers will have the standard SAE fitting on one end that will mate up with the hard lines at most local parts store, and a 7/16" banjo fitting on the other end for the calipers. On the other hand, two will have standard SAE fittings on both ends - these are for the drop between the chassis and the axle.
I did buy a flare tool too - but I'm not sure I"m goign to be using them cauz now everything is pre-made and is just a bolt-on.
i think i've got my brake lines and hoses down ..
I am going to get the brake hoses custom made from XtremeCrawlers.com. I PM-ed them on PBB and they gave me a good quote for six hoses. The look like this and are available in many colors:
The problem I was having before was, every 'speed' company/shop out there that makes brake hoses (braided steel) typically go with the AN end fittings while the "hard" brake lines that are available at most local stores use the SAE fittings. So if I went this route, I would have needed 8 adapters -- somewhat of a "dirty" of a setup switching back and forth between AN and SAE.
So four of the custom hoses from XtremeCrawlers will have the standard SAE fitting on one end that will mate up with the hard lines at most local parts store, and a 7/16" banjo fitting on the other end for the calipers. On the other hand, two will have standard SAE fittings on both ends - these are for the drop between the chassis and the axle.
I did buy a flare tool too - but I'm not sure I"m goign to be using them cauz now everything is pre-made and is just a bolt-on.
sn0border88
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you got any good links on coverting a DRW 14b to a SRW? I can get one for next to nothing and it looks very tempting.
IZwack
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So you want to widen the axle? (SRW is wider than DRW)sn0border88 said:
But theres nothing to it to convert from one to the other - its just a hub swap. You can try looking over Pirate's 14 bolt bible but I don't think that writeup goes too indepth on how to swap out the hubs - it covers the differences between C&C, SRW, and DRW - but not so much on how to swap one to the other.
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redranger4.0
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you should just need the SRW hubs for it. i bought a rear 70 that was DRW and i just bought some single rear hubs for it. it should be all you need.sn0border88 said:
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