Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread | Page 79 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread

The new turd mobile. 2000 Mountaineer v8 awd.



The bad:

Was living it's prior life on a dusty road. Must tear out interior and deep clean.
Driver window off track "or something" and will not roll down. It tries but the rear part wants to stay up.

3 out of 4 door handles have issues. I have 4 new outer handles on order.
Cracked passenger side tail light housing. ( Ebay for some cool tail lights)

Compass-Thermometer thingy lit up and went out--idunno bout that yet

Door locks seem sticky, probably has to do with the handles.
It has a funky purple color trim with red metallic ( you'll have that every now and then) :(

The good
Gas tank was full
109k miles
I am the 2nd owner!!
Is from the local area, which means no salt!
The undercarriage is fairly clean
No dents to underside panels
Good rubber
Camber shims already installed
Looks like good service records, all recalls were completed.
Clean carfax believe it or not.

The "maybe" bad

The original owner, told the dealership it had a bad "heater core" however I have run it for several cycles, over an hour each idling in the driveay and see no leaks.
However, there was evidence of a windshield leak or the like,I saw condensation on the inside of the windows this AM. The moisture smell is that of water only-no anti freeze smell. I am thinking it could also be a cowl drain which is clogged???? but she did say the passenger carpet got wet.

I tried to get heat, however it is an auto climate control. Being 90 degrees outside, I doubt it would have given me heat.The heater core hoses were hot, and the coolant bypass valve does operate. AC blows Ice cold.

Maybe she meant to say "heater door"???

Anyway--here are the pics.



My intent is to drive this and use it as a tow rig for a light weight off road toy. Mods will be minimal. Edit: This plan did not work out so on to plan "b"

Current visual status

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Progress pictures
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028.jpg


031.jpg


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044.jpg


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042.jpg

038.jpg


Now, let's clean it up a little


Herculine'rd rocker panels. Rock sliders installed

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BW 4406 True 4x4 Manual transfer case ( AKA Mouse entry point) installed 8-27-2012
Installed newer Tcase from a 2003 11-14-15

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Saw a rainbow in Colorado so yeah, time for a picture
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And here she is, on top of the highest pass road in North America. Careful tire placement a must!!!
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2-2-2013

Changed "color scheme" of the Dick Cepek DC1 wheels. New Falken Wildpeak AT 31x1050x15

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Then I decided Maroon washer on the wheels would look better

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Update 6-6-2013

New bumpers, winch and Pro LED light . Front Bumper from RLC, Skid plate from RCI, rear bumper from Kert307


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Rear anti sway disconnects

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Update 9-2-2014
A cracked radiator at 70mph led to engine failure. Replaced with a freshened up a bit 80k mile engine starting on page 23

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Found another rainbow in Kansas.

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Whew, I hope to never do that again. I have to make a list and go to a JY to buy some things, those V6 condenser brackets for sure.
 






Just as @410Fortune said,

I loosened the oil plug and at least a cup of coolant escaped thru the threads into the pan,

I dumped a quart of cheap oil thru also.
 












You haven't lived a full life till you've installed a V8 explorer radiator.
i cheated that and used a v6 condenser and mounts. good thing to because ive had the motor in and out enough times that i should use Velcro to hold it in
 






i cheated that and used a v6 condenser and mounts. good thing to because ive had the motor in and out enough times that i should use Velcro to hold it in
I'm seriously considering this.


Next up, I m going to remove the off road bumper and roof rack, throw em in storage and clean install the factory type front bumper. These changbes should be worth about 4 mpg . Need to bring her back up to 18 mpg+ like she used to do.

Bumper and roof rack yields 14.6 mpg if you keep it under 65 mpg. LOD on scangauge runs high at highway speeds also. Averages around 70-75 at 65 mph.

If the rack delete and bumper yield a lower LOD , well know if it worked.

Problem is, I carefully trimmed the welds holding the factory bumper brackets to frame horn. I guess the best thing hing to do is make an inside bolt on mount I could weld the factory mounts to, making them removable. Anyone done this? Ideas?

The winch bumper is held in this way, thinking a plate drilled to it's pattern, bolt it in and weld to brackets.
 






Too good to be true. Coolant Draining now cause I get to do this all over again. Pretty upset right now, going for gasket set at AutoZone.

Got oil and coolant leaking. Questioning my abilities now.
 






Ouch, that really sucks. Take it easy, don't break something cause you're mad at it. Go slow and enjoy everything coming off easily and clean.

I spent a ton of time checking my old timing cover and the whole gasket surface area. I worked the RTV into the corners above and below the gasket, using a small screwdriver to push it in there well. I was worried about the oil pan section leaking, as I couldn't add any sealant, but rely on the old gasket to hold. I filed on my old timing cover around the two coolant holes, it was degraded along there a bit.

I hope it works this next time for you. 🤞
 






Sorry to hear that Jon. I have been in the same boat. Finish everything up only to find it has to come apart again. Extremely frustrating.:banghead:
 






I have semi good news.

Removed lower rad hose to get rad out and found it badly clamped, coolant come by from there.

Got rad out, removed balancer and yup, I tucked the front seal when I put the balancer on. That'll do it by golly, explained oil slinging everywhere.

Timing seal actually looks ok. Gonna attempt front seal replacement . Glad I left it out a tad, should be able to pull it out
 






there was a time when i really enjoyed working on cars and trucks.
there was also a time when i had hair.
coincidence?
 






there was a time when i really enjoyed working on cars and trucks.
there was also a time when i had hair.
coincidence?

I think you're on to something!

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rick_bald.jpg






:laugh:
 


















@Rick and @vroomzoomboom ,

I am now going grow my hair long since it was brought up. Seems like a lot of people are anyway Gonna have a fro like Ricks , except it'll look more like a broom. A big gray broom.
 












I drained and saved the precious new mobil 1 oil, as I thought I was going to remove the timing cover again.

Got the balancer seated slow and smooth, after oiling it and the seal, watched the seal as it went in this time.
Refilled oil, started engine just for 2 second nds and shut it off.

Cardboard placed under to see if the udders still leak.
Mules have udders right?

Drips are from water pump snoutso ignore them. We'll see how it looks tomorrow.
What mess. Some always gets away.
IMG_20231112_170927751_HDR.jpg
 






Battle on! You are winning
Now back to your bumper roof rack projects

I’m telling you I have zip ties the condenser to the radiator about 15 times, forget those v8 style clips. However you do get better at the clips over time… they are still never “easy”
 






There is a trick to the clips, and I found cleaning them a bit and silicone lube helps. Tiny bit of lube, just a spritz. That stuff gets on your fingers and good luck grabbing anything.
 



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The radiator trick literally took 5 minutes!

First rest driver side of radiator on pad.

Then, underneath, push in the small lock as far as it will go

IMG_20231113_124934395_HDR.jpg


Then, no pic because it takes 2 hands, while holding radiator, reach one arm up to align the lower tab with radiator slot.

Now going up your top tab will be aligned also

IMG_20231113_125243275_HDR.jpg


Now you slide condensor over till fanny clip aligns, and snap it. Hang passenger side of radiator up on its pad. Done.
 






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