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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Exactly, the bleeder screw is on the top of the caliper and should be pointing up so that they can be bled properly. IMHO I would set up the calipers correctly then worry about your lines being too short/long later.
OKay, thanks. Luckily it hasn't been welded yet. It looks like the 79-85 Caddy calipers have a slightly different e-brake setup than the 76-78, and since I've currently only got the stuff for the 79-85, I might not have an ebrake until I can get the new parts (which I haven't found for sale new ) I'll set them up like you said and get the e-brake setup later. How would I go about extending the e-brake cable?
Well, the passenger side cable appears to be more than long enough when the calipers are in the same position as Zainy said. I just need to finish grinding the driver side bracket and then I can see if the driver side cable will be long enough. I'm guessing it will be. I tested out the 15x10 I had and it just barely fit, so I can use that rim for my spare after all.
Good idea RockRanger. I never thought about that, thanks. I worked on it til midnight yesterday (put the end back together to see if it still needed to be moved forward, etc) Putting those wedges in pushed the axle forward a little bit. I need to have my neighbor weld the trac bar mount today so I can finally get this axle sitting evenly (side to side). I'm getting ready to bring the rear axle over to my neighbor for the final welds, so I can reinstall it this afternoon and it'll be in there for good.
Thanks Colin. I've already had a couple of people from my neighbor stop to look at ti b/c they thought it was finally all done.
I was considering lowering it down an inch or two, but decided I'd leave it as is, so I don't have to trim as much to flex it out. I think I might drive the truck for a day or two with the coil buckets bolted up before I weld it all. I want to see how bad it rubs in the back of the front fender before I decide if I wanna go through all the trouble of moving everything forward another inch.
8" (2" AAL and SOA, and the front sits pretty level with the back), looks taller than that though since it's a sport. Also because of the cut bumper and removed side molding. I had to stop myself yesterday...I was about to cut off the rear lower 1/4.
Haha, I'll find a couple of pics from my old days on 31s. The rear flexes pretty nicely for having an AAL(it's no four link w/ coil overs, but it's not all that bad IMO). Unfortunately, I have no way to tell how it would've flexed without it cause I never wheeled it (previous owner did tho). I'd like to replace it with something else, but I don't really want lift blocks and I don't wanna drop the money for new leaves. I do have another option though...linked rear with f150 aux. tank
Yeah, my leafs flex nice, but I really want to get rid of the overload spring. I still have my stock leafs from my old Ex, so I'm going to mix them together. You could get shackles...? I know Jefe still uses them since his Deavers came back wrong.
Naw, I don't really like shackles. With the new bumper going in the rear, they'd drag over everything. I just went outside with my dad and showed him what needed to be done and I THINK I can have it driving by tomorrow! (assuming I don't have any problems...and I always seem to run into a couple )