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Cold Air Intake for 5.0 Explorer

having sat down and done some review for a math quiz, and thinking about exhaust, im wondering:

is backpressure vs pipe diameter, like nearly everything in life about the balance. if so, im wondering, is the optimal pipe diameter etc contingent on (focusing on torque here) about that equilibrium of max flow matching exhaust output at peak torque point. for example, say a motor has its max output at 3000, and at that rpm under WOT it displaces 5 CFM of air, would you need piping with a diameter that can support that same? i imagine the same is true for HP, just at high rpm it is pushing more air out, so it needs more diameter. the reason why it may lose torque with too wide pipes (say optimized for HP)im speculating may just be because when you blow out, the air does not just go straight, it kinda makes this form
2Fclipground.com%2Fimages%2Fblowing-air-clipart-17.jpg
and as such, with each "exhale" or exhaust valve opening, the air makes this form, and loses velocity, and the air coming up behind it form the next opening of valve causes it to be too slow and create a "backlog" of sorts, and areas of high & low pressure, as opposed to amore consistent rate of flow, so the engine doesn have to work harder. nto sure if that made any sense whatsoever, this is just some brainstorming while reviewing for math quiz
 



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A 5hp gain on the 3 cylinder geo metro would be a 10% increase.
I’ve torn motors down to the crank for 5hp gains.
 






having sat down and done some review for a math quiz, and thinking about exhaust, im wondering:

is backpressure vs pipe diameter, like nearly everything in life about the balance. if so, im wondering, is the optimal pipe diameter etc contingent on (focusing on torque here) about that equilibrium of max flow matching exhaust output at peak torque point. for example, say a motor has its max output at 3000, and at that rpm under WOT it displaces 5 CFM of air, would you need piping with a diameter that can support that same? i imagine the same is true for HP, just at high rpm it is pushing more air out, so it needs more diameter. the reason why it may lose torque with too wide pipes (say optimized for HP)im speculating may just be because when you blow out, the air does not just go straight, it kinda makes this form View attachment 439139 and as such, with each "exhale" or exhaust valve opening, the air makes this form, and loses velocity, and the air coming up behind it form the next opening of valve causes it to be too slow and create a "backlog" of sorts, and areas of high & low pressure, as opposed to amore consistent rate of flow, so the engine doesn have to work harder. nto sure if that made any sense whatsoever, this is just some brainstorming while reviewing for math quiz
From what I understand, you are getting it. I came across a simple calculator that used the highest torque output RPM in the calc. I also found a detailed calculator just looking at headers that looks better, uses cam stuff, valve timing etc: Primary Header Tube Length and Diameter Calculator

Remember expansion of gases with them explosions, 1CFM in is 2.2CFM out. 2.2 X CFM in = Exhaust CFM out approximately.
 






I though I was Ricky Ratchet for sure when I removed a smog pump on a 1976 Chevy Luv.......................My first vehicle engine modification and use of the Butt Dyno. I am sure that pump removal and tune gained 10 horses. Noticeable in a small light underpowered rig!
 






Issues with having GT40P Heads!

So today, working on the truck a bit. There are a few issues.
1. Wyoming is cold as heck! About 10° F outside today.
2. I was changing spark plugs, easy access through wheel well. Started on passenger side back, the two back plugs have metal sleeves around them. First one was no problem, but 2nd is another story. Because after 2 hours or more and almost getting frost bite. I got old plug out and installed new one. But when I tried to remove spark plug socket from the spark plug, it WOULDN'T COME OFF!!!! I had to remove the new spark plug to get the socket out. Then I tried again after I removed the rubber plug holder from inside the socket.

Still same issue!

Tried to remove socket with pliers, NOPE!

Tried to remove socket with vise grips, NOPE!

Had to remove NEW spark plug a 3rd time to get socket off of it. Then I had to put in the plug very loosely by hand, so the socket wouldn't get stuck. Truck no longer runs, lol. Because I can't get the plug in and socket off. So I noticed on the socket about an inch of the end of it is rubbing on dirt/oil/that sleeve. So my solution is to grind the socket a bit on the end, so it's more narrow. Then hopefully it won't get stuck.

They say you have to remove the exhaust manifolds to change plugs on the Gt40P heads. That is ONE of the stupidest things I ever heard.

There has to be a way around that. It turns out for some reason my truck has Exterior tube EGR on passenger side manifold, so that means it has GT40P Heads. If this doesn't work, I'm not happy! Screw these P heads! I would swap for non P heads. Almost as stupid as on a new F series, you have to remove cab bolts and jack up, just to change valve cover gaskets. I may not be 100% accurate, but something like that.

Anyways, sorry venting a little.

So do you think that will work?
Anyone else have P heads and how did you overcome this problem?

It seems there is plenty of room, but it's just that sleeve that causes the issue.
 


















By the way yesterday I sprayed degreaser and cleaned best i could. I couldn't do more then small spray bottle of degreaser and water. Since so cold outside, no garden hose to rinse off. I'm trying to not get dirt and stuff in the engine. I suppose I could pull plug wires off and spray plug holes with plug installed. But so cold, I don't want water to get stuck in there and freeze. Maybe if I'm super fast, I could use electronic leaf blower to blow water out. Just tough with job out in cold and limited resources.

I also had a long extension on the socket that locks and tried to pull it off. Like a dent puller, but that didn't work either. Changing spark plugs should not be this difficult. I'm contemplating, just getting this one plug done. So honestly, only one new spark plug wire and 2 new plugs. Lol, the motor is so dirty. I rather wait and do it at sametime as when I do valve cover gaskets. Which I heard is like a 7 hour job. I'm starting to not like this motor! Lol

I bought a honda civic and removed 70% of the parts and replaced with parts i already had. Motor, trans, linkage, exhaust, doors, interior (including steering colomn), Ecu, seats, wheels, tires, coilovers and probably some other stuff I forgot in less then 2 days.

Bought it Friday night and had it running and driving on Sunday. Motor swap and conversion.

Then it takes about same amount of time to do valve cover gaskets and plugs on this thing? That is just crazy.
 






By the way yesterday I sprayed degreaser and cleaned best i could. I couldn't do more then small spray bottle of degreaser and water. Since so cold outside, no garden hose to rinse off. I'm trying to not get dirt and stuff in the engine. I suppose I could pull plug wires off and spray plug holes with plug installed. But so cold, I don't want water to get stuck in there and freeze. Maybe if I'm super fast, I could use electronic leaf blower to blow water out. Just tough with job out in cold and limited resources.

I also had a long extension on the socket that locks and tried to pull it off. Like a dent puller, but that didn't work either. Changing spark plugs should not be this difficult. I'm contemplating, just getting this one plug done. So honestly, only one new spark plug wire and 2 new plugs. Lol, the motor is so dirty. I rather wait and do it at sametime as when I do valve cover gaskets. Which I heard is like a 7 hour job. I'm starting to not like this motor! Lol

I bought a honda civic and removed 70% of the parts and replaced with parts i already had. Motor, trans, linkage, exhaust, doors, interior (including steering colomn), Ecu, seats, wheels, tires, coilovers and probably some other stuff I forgot in less then 2 days.

Bought it Friday night and had it running and driving on Sunday. Motor swap and conversion.

Then it takes about same amount of time to do valve cover gaskets and plugs on this thing? That is just crazy.
@410Fortune is a v8 guru. havent heard of any issues related to that @Lee's Automotive has spent alot of time around the v8s too, i believe it was an 00? also depending on the degreaser just spraying degreaser and using a spray bottle of water may not get it all off. depending on how aggressive it can harm painted surfaces.
 






@410Fortune is a v8 guru. havent heard of any issues related to that @Lee's Automotive has spent alot of time around the v8s too, i believe it was an 00? also depending on the degreaser just spraying degreaser and using a spray bottle of water may not get it all off. depending on how aggressive it can harm painted surfaces.
yes im familiar with the V8 and its in a 2000 EB X also for degreaser superclean is the best stuff to use and ive never had an issue with it eating paint hell ive used it on my paint to get oil off and it never damaged it
 






You absolutely do not have to pull the manifolds to do the plugs on ANY Explorer. Put the socket in a Vice and punch the old socket out. Pull the rubber insert out of the plug socket if it’s a problem.

I always install plugs with a rubber hose stuck over the end
 






You can’t really compare a transverse 4 cylinder to a large v8 that’s a pretty tight fit in the engine bay.

Plugs on a v8 should be a 3 hour job tops.
 






The degreaser was purple power, just the regular stuff. I don't believe it did much, because I couldn't be very aggressive.

I'm not sure you understand. After installing the spark plug in the engine, the socket WILL NOT COME OFF THE spark plug. Its STUCK! Because you need to take the socket off the spark plug to put the wire on the spark plug. As the pic shows the socket stuck on the plug. I'm gonna try my turning a standard spark plug socket into a SPECIALTY TOOL! I do believe it's because of dirt build up in the hole, but I'm still gonna do it. got to finish the job somehow. Hopefully it works. Thanks for all the input.

Intake 90 should be here tomorrow. But won't be able to know if it works for sure til Saturday afternoon.
 






Purple power is good stuff. I used it to clean my freightliner engine, it has a few small leaks. It polished the aluminum wheels too.
 






Purple power is good stuff. I used it to clean my freightliner engine, it has a few small leaks. It polished the aluminum wheels too.
PP super clean all good stuff. have also had good luck w/ LAs totally awesome, good value at the dollar general
 






its the zip citrus commercial blend one that may cause issue if not fully removed. its miracle on BBQ, not so much on your trucks
 






You can pull those shrouds out with pliers. I’ve done many plugs on the V8s. A regular 5/8s deep well would work fine.

A “specialty” socket isn’t the answer ESPECIALLY if there’s dirt in the bore. That dirt is in the cylinder if so.
 






the steel "heat guard" comes off the engine with plyers
I have fought this battle before with the stuck socket
Just remove the "heat guard" and discard it they are "press fit"
You do not have to put it back as long as you use careful routing of the wires to avoid the exhaust (don't even get close)
 






If using a plug socket it should already be a thinner wall, dirt is the issue.

Purple power is great but it etches, eats aluminum if left on rims, throttle body etc etc..
 



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Okay, THANKS everyone!

I'm sure that there is NO dirt in the cylinder. That was the main thing to avoid!

I will try a few more times with cleaning. I should be able to get all the dirt out from around the plugs, if I remove the plug wires and put them up out of the way. Spray bottles are not best strategy, but if I do it a few times. It should do the trick. It's a bit warmer today (up to about 40). Thanks again!
 






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