-Deathrow Update Log-

[DemonMudder]

Anyone ever put axles (front and rear) from a ranger on their explorer? I've found a deal on a set of both from an 03 ranger with a 4.10, guy thinks the rear is a limited slip, but I'll test that in person. But is it just plug and play? Or should I be worried?

 

[DannyW]

Careful on the spline count. Also the spring perches are on top of the axle, and outboard a bit further.
Furthermore the bearings are smaller on the Ranger, and you would have to do a drum brake swap out to disk.
- I would regear what ya got.

-Dan

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Ranger I think if it wasnt a SOHC had 27 spline rear axle. Something like that. FWIW Explorer has 31 spl

 

[DemonMudder]

Careful on the spline count. Also the spring perches are on top of the axle, and outboard a bit further.
Furthermore the bearings are smaller on the Ranger, and you would have to do a drum brake swap out to disk.
- I would regear what ya got.

-Dan

Yep, gotcha, find a donor X axle or regear, gearing probably being the better choice. Thanks for that clarification!! Save my money then! Plus I can have a limited slip or locker up front this way

 

[DintDobbs]

@DemonMudder If you can make the 2025 Uwharrie trip, I'd happily offload my old 4.10 ratio ring gears and pinions for both front and rear (front standard rotation Dana 35, rear 31 spline Ford 8.8). I've hung onto them since the Vulture's regear to 5.13; they have somewhere in the vicinity of 170-185k miles on them, I forget exactly. Pay what you want, or you can just have them, it's up to you.

DM if you want pics. They've been sitting in a box for a few years.

 

[DemonMudder]

@DemonMudder If you can make the 2025 Uwharrie trip, I'd happily offload my old 4.10 ratio ring gears and pinions for both front and rear (front standard rotation Dana 35, rear 31 spline Ford 8.8). I've hung onto them since the Vulture's regear to 5.13; they have somewhere in the vicinity of 170-185k miles on them, I forget exactly. Pay what you want, or you can just have them, it's up to you.

That is a dang good offer I'll do my best to take! I cant thank ya enough on that! She may be ripping again as soon as tomorrow if all goes well so! I'll be planning as soon as possible so hopefully, fingers crossed, nothing goes wrong, by then I may even have all three of my rigs working fine, so at least SOMETHING makes it up there! lol

 

[DemonMudder]

Not been much progress lately, been dealing with some stuff. But I got the oil filter filled and installed, kinda glad to be on the motorcraft again vs k&n, not sure it really technically does anything over stock, but I do kinda miss having the hex bit on the bottom. Also, most of my electrical is done, pretty sure I got all my vacuum lines figured out, all that's left is finishing installing the upper intake, new air filter assembly, topping off fluids and a test start! Sadly on starter fluid first, still need to drain out that old gas.

 

[DemonMudder]

Okay, new fun, radiator is in, but apparently the plugs ain't as deep as the old one? They are too long and can't even reach a thread in the new one. I'm aware of the obvious re-flare it with a new nut, but that'll set me off a few days finding the right size and my old tool. Just constant setbacks, haha! But, just about everything is done still! Belt on, top intake on, everything tightened.
Not sure where I'm supposed to put this sensor too, didn't come with instructions, try emailing the company to ask about both things. But the other lines are on and it's almost time to fill her up! Looking fantastic compared to before too!

 

[CDW6212R]

The OEM fittings are unique, extra long thread types. Ford has used those for decades, even a quick connect version. Most people like to change them when there is a bad leak, and leave them alone if not. I wonder if anyone ever made a conversion fitting to be able to keep the old lines/connections?

 

[DemonMudder]

The OEM fittings are unique, extra long thread types. Ford has used those for decades, even a quick connect version. Most people like to change them when there is a bad leak, and leave them alone if not. I wonder if anyone ever made a conversion fitting to be able to keep the old lines/connections?

Thats what I'm thinking, otherwise finding an adapter that would fit would be annoying. I'll try and do some research and asking around in a bit.

 

[CDW6212R]

I haven't measured the three OEM trans lines, but I'm sure you could have the two shortest ones replaced with common fuel lines from a parts store. The 3/8" fuel lines they carry have the flare fittings on them to mate to the trans, and it's the same as that radiator.

I have made lines that way once for my old work car, 86 Crown Vic. I used the old oil cooler as a trans cooler, and created the longest line with two lengths and a 3/8" flared union block.

That worked great, but note those fittings don't seal well without an o-ring in them. The factory connectors now have o-rings in them, but a while before(early 90's and back), they didn't, so be sure to put an o-ring into all of the connections. Your OEM unique connectors won't need o-rings, they were properly made. The common flared ends are hard to get with proper manufacturing tolerances, so most will leak unless cranked very very tight. Thus use o-rings if possible, and they should not leak.

 

[DemonMudder]

I haven't measured the three OEM trans lines, but I'm sure you could have the two shortest ones replaced with common fuel lines from a parts store. The 3/8" fuel lines they carry have the flare fittings on them to mate to the trans, and it's the same as that radiator.

I have made lines that way once for my old work car, 86 Crown Vic. I used the old oil cooler as a trans cooler, and created the longest line with two lengths and a 3/8" flared union block.

That worked great, but note those fittings don't seal well without an o-ring in them. The factory connectors now have o-rings in them, but a while before(early 90's and back), they didn't, so be sure to put an o-ring into all of the connections. Your OEM unique connectors won't need o-rings, they were properly made. The common flared ends are hard to get with proper manufacturing tolerances, so most will leak unless cranked very very tight. Thus use o-rings if possible, and they should not leak.

Yeah, Teflon tape will be my savior for a small amount of time, want to test it, make sure things work, then I'll go back to seals, need her running sooner than later at this rate. But, found some help and a guy is pretty sure these will work, so I've got them ordered and should be here in a couple days, I hope by Thursday since I'm off.

2Pcs Transmission Oil Cooler Fast Connector For 1985-1994 FORD Explorer Ranger | eBay

For 1985-1994 Ford Explorer/Ranger/B4000 AT/MT. Our products include Aluminum Radiator, Intercooler, Silicone Hose, Electronic Fans, etc. Electric Thermo Fans. Motorcycle & ATV Radiator. Tractor Radiator.

www.ebay.com

 

[DemonMudder]

So next thing, for the radiator fan, it came with a sensor plug to screw in somewhere, but I'm unsure where it would even go, there's no spot on the radiator, so what do yall suggest?

 

[CDW6212R]

Is it a NPT screw in type? Some use a thin metal bulb thing which can be pushed into radiator fins, but the typical threaded sensors are made to go into a thermostat housing typically. The stock thermostat housing doesn't have an extra port, but aftermarket replacements might. The 302's can get those, I don't know what the SOHC V6 has for options. The V6 does have an extra part that goes between the two passenger side hoses, it may be possible to remove that and install a port, and the sensor, into it.

 

[DemonMudder]

This is what it looks like, don't make me take the whole top end off again just to throw a stupid sensor in, especially since I don't think my t-stat housing has whatcha mean sadly

 

[DemonMudder]

Also, couple other things, my passenger window only goes down like halfway and stops, very similar to the way the rear windows work, any idea where I should start on that? Maybe a new motor? It moves up and down good, just stops halfway..
Other thing, suggestions for replacing the rear lift gate lock cylinder? I don't have a key for it, and it would be nice to have one. Already have two different keys, one for the doors (need to figure out what I broke on the drivers side, doesnt lock or unlock anymore), and one for the ignition.

 

[CDW6212R]

The window is probably the motor pucks, almost broken completely, and the side guides need a little lubrication. If the window moves smoothly in the guides all the way, then it's probably the motor pucks. This old they all should be replaced, about $8 a motor at a parts store(HELP section).

The hatch lock cylinder, that might not be as easy as the other cylinders to correct. Normal key cylinders can have the tumblers changed to work with any key, locksmiths will do that on sight. If they can't do the rear one, ask first, then you might have to take it out and change that to one with a matching key. I bet they can, but it may take odd tumblers that they don't carry.

With my 99/93 truck, I used the 99 ignition and door cylinders, but had to have them re-keyed to match a 95-97 hatch lock cylinder I bought used. So I ended up with new keys, and made it all match the 1997 key I got with the hatch cylinder. A locksmith came to me and did the three cylinders for about $60 total, in 2006.

 

[DemonMudder]

The window is probably the motor pucks, almost broken completely, and the side guides need a little lubrication. If the window moves smoothly in the guides all the way, then it's probably the motor pucks. This old they all should be replaced, about $8 a motor at a parts store(HELP section).

The hatch lock cylinder, that might not be as easy as the other cylinders to correct. Normal key cylinders can have the tumblers changed to work with any key, locksmiths will do that on sight. If they can't do the rear one, ask first, then you might have to take it out and change that to one with a matching key. I bet they can, but it may take odd tumblers that they don't carry.

With my 99/93 truck, I used the 99 ignition and door cylinders, but had to have them re-keyed to match a 95-97 hatch lock cylinder I bought used. So I ended up with new keys, and made it all match the 1997 key I got with the hatch cylinder. A locksmith came to me and did the three cylinders for about $60 total, in 2006.

Lovely, so time for motors, don't love that idea lol
Thank you for the info! Any hacks your aware of to get the rear windows all the way down vs stopping from factory? Don't need it, but could be fun to have

Sadly that's what I feared, know it's not as easy to replace and I can't find a single cylinder online. Could I maybe buy a key and then have them come out and match that blank key to the hatch? Hate to have three keys, but if that's easier. Not badly priced though which I like

 

[CDW6212R]

First call a local locksmith, find one that works on all car locks. See if you can find one that knows if the hatch lock cylinder is like the others, and the tumblers inside can be changed. If they can, it would be worth it to pay them to make yours take the ignition key you have now.

The window motors are very reliable, but the plastic pucks in the drive end are made to be the weak link. Those you can do yourself, the motor itself should last forever if it isn't abused(when the pucks go bad and the window slows, that's very bad for the motor itself). Basically you drill one or two holes out in the doors to get access to the three motor bolts. Carefully fish out the motor assembly after disconnecting the wiring. Be patient with the pucks, it is very difficult to install the group of gears and pucks all together into the housing. That will take a long time the first time you do it. Then the next ones won't be that bad. Only fill it about half volume with grease, don't pack it full.

 

[DemonMudder]

Will do, and honestly I'd rather match it to my door keys, kinda like the idea of having a door key and an ignition key, harder to steal that way. But hopefully they'll be able to do it! Thanks again!

Love putting more holes in the truck..guess we'll see how soon I can mess with it, for now I can't even think of affording it anyway. I should be able to just buy the individual pucks then, right?