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[410Fortune]

I was dead set on supercharging a ohv for my bii
But after rebuilding an a4ld 3 times I could not imagine keeping the v6 auto with even more power and more heat, so instead I took the plunge and went v8
This was before we had the ability to rebuild an a4ld using 5r55e internal upgrades. Still supercharging and custom auto transmissions = big $$$$$ big maintenance, tuning, etc
This was also before the 5.0 explorer conversion was so common and well documented, they are much easier now. I was even shown a link this am to classicbroncos website forum where a guy has broken down the explorer 5.0 wiring harness with a series of YouTube videos…..
Sweeet!! Very nice of him!!!

I still build 4.0 rigs mostly with a m5od hd 5 speed anyone if my customers who wants an auto for 4 wheeling, towing, or traffic I still recommend the small block with the 4r70w

The sohc engine had a bomb proof rotating assembly and bottom end and I mean bomb proof. If it wasn’t for the nylon guides and hydraulic tensioners these would be just as tough as the old pushrods
Not many sohc engines fail for anything other then timing… sad really

 

[DemonMudder]

I was dead set on supercharging a ohv for my bii
But after rebuilding an a4ld 3 times I could not imagine keeping the v6 auto with even more power and more heat, so instead I took the plunge and went v8
This was before we had the ability to rebuild an a4ld using 5r55e internal upgrades. Still supercharging and custom auto transmissions = big $$$$$ big maintenance, tuning, etc
This was also before the 5.0 explorer conversion was so common and well documented, they are much easier now. I was even shown a link this am to classicbroncos website forum where a guy has broken down the explorer 5.0 wiring harness with a series of YouTube videos…..
Sweeet!! Very nice of him!!!

I still build 4.0 rigs mostly with a m5od hd 5 speed anyone if my customers who wants an auto for 4 wheeling, towing, or traffic I still recommend the small block with the 4r70w

The sohc engine had a bomb proof rotating assembly and bottom end and I mean bomb proof. If it wasn’t for the nylon guides and hydraulic tensioners these would be just as tough as the old pushrods
Not many sohc engines fail for anything other then timing… sad really

Definitely not the route I wanted to take, but I do think I'm sticking with my SOHC just because of that. Sucker ain't ever let me down, can even be upgraded a couple ways. Everyone does do the 5.0 swap, incredibly well documented by this point, but I'm going to do different. Just as @DannyW commented earlier about his, be fun showing people what a V6 can do.

Still unsure on the supercharger route, would help with some extra low end torque, but as ya said @410Fortune, it is more heat and strain, causing some other issues. I can always work on negating that though with something like swapping in the 2" radiator in place of my 1", or a better fan setup. Won't do it 100%, but it would help keep it cooler. Not doing any supercharging any time soon though.

 

[DintDobbs]

@donalds Yes, @4pointslow is the specific one I was thinking of, I've seen his green Sport on the YT before I joined EF. Couldn't remember his name, thanks!

@DemonMudder I used to dig holes, when I ran stock tires. I'll never say it wasn't fun...

 

[DemonMudder]

Funny how life works, as soon as I say screw it and decide to just keep the 4.0 and build it up, is right when I find a cheap little 5.0 exploder for sale. Still ain't going for it, but just kind of funny how that happens. Tonight I'll see about fixing my overhead console screen, tomorrow I'll mess with the grille lights, at least figure out where I'm running the wiring.

 

[joney]

The best part about the 5.0 conversion is not the power gains, it is the reliability and the three quarter ton transmission.

The stock 5.0 makes less power then the sohc engine so do not swap to the v8 thinking you will magically have all of this new found power….but you will have a reliable truck that barely asks for anything ever. Swapped my bii in 2005 that’s 17 years ago now…. Daily driven and daily four wheeling… she just keeps on going

The stock 5.0 makes less power then the sohc engine - now that is a surprise, to me!

 

[CDW6212R]

The stock 5.0 makes less power then the sohc engine - now that is a surprise, to me!

In stock form they have similar power ratings, but the 5.0 has a fatter power curve, it has a lot more torque down low.

The Explorer 302 is virtually the identical engine as all Mustang Cobra 302's were, and those were rated at 240hp. The lower rating of the Explorers is due to the horrendous exhaust system, and the automatic trans. The exhaust manifolds are terrible choking things, like breathing through a straw. The single exhaust system in the back also robs power, Mustangs have double the airflow behind the cats, with two mufflers and tail pipes, instead of one.

 

[410Fortune]

The explorer gt40 is the best and the last of the small block ford 302
Roller engine
Gt40 intakes
Mas air
Obd2 efi
Dis waste spark coil pack ignition
135 amp alternator
High volume oil pump
High output water pump
Metal power steering pump
Short front serpentine dress
4r70w robust
Packaged to fit explorer/ranger
Responds well to mods that is for sure


Thank you ford
Just have to build it to suit your needs from there

 

[joney]

In stock form they have similar power ratings, but the 5.0 has a fatter power curve, it has a lot more torque down low.

The Explorer 302 is virtually the identical engine as all Mustang Cobra 302's were, and those were rated at 240hp. The lower rating of the Explorers is due to the horrendous exhaust system, and the automatic trans. The exhaust manifolds are terrible choking things, like breathing through a straw. The single exhaust system in the back also robs power, Mustangs have double the airflow behind the cats, with two mufflers and tail pipes, instead of one.

I did have a 5.0 once, in my 82 Crown Vic. Definitely kept up with traffic! Not sure how much it had in common with the ones they later put in Mustangs and Explorers. The exhaust info is very interesting! According to specs on internet Ford LTD Crown Victoria 4-door 5.0L V-8 automatic overdrive 1982 V-8 301.6 cui, 132 hp (SAE net) of power, 236 lb-ft of torque

 

[CDW6212R]

I had two 80's Crown Vics, with the 351, police duty. I had to replace one engine after about 240k miles, and I installed a stock 88 Mustang 302 HO. That 302 got better fuel economy, and the EFI made it almost as good on the launch.

The Explorer 302's have an excellent torque converter in them, the stall speed is excellent for launching the 302 in a heavy 4500lbs vehicle. My Mark VII's have all been very poor taking off, the TC is much too low of a stall speed.

It's always about the parts combinations, for any vehicle. Match things well, and you love driving it, but the opposite is true also, mess up the camshaft selection, a bad exhaust, the TC, gearing etc, and you have mediocre results.

Mustang guys learn to get very good at building a nice 302 combination for those cars. These trucks need more, and special attention to some things.


FYI, the oil pump is a normal volume pump, Ford didn't install high volume pumps into any SBF's. You have to have a stronger pump drive shaft to use a high volume pump, and more pan capacity if the rpm's go very high. You want to avoid a high volume pump, it increases the risk of twisting the drive shaft, and wear on the drive gears.

 

[DemonMudder]

Okay, getting back on top of A LOT of projects that have been put off for too long. Any suggestions for connecting two different pigtails? As mentioned in my foglight thread, they don't fit the oem mounts, which is still causing a bit of a problem that I'm working with, but the pigtails were different too. Thought about trying to just cut them and hardwire it, but that's a difficult task since I think I'd have to manually hook up the daytime running lights on the fogs separately. I'm not finding much on google for connecting different pigtails, so I figured I'd ask before I mess with anything. I can get pictures of the pigtails of each in the morning and send them. The link to the original thread when I first was trying to do this, is in the original post here. That and where do you think would be a good spot to mount about a 1" tall, like 20" long light strip on the front with 3m (possibly some mounts with screws on each end as well for a precaution)? Can't decide between the bumper or the grille guard mainly, debated the grille itself but I don't want it too hidden, besides I'll have the grille lights in there whenever I have those added and on (will have a seperate switch like the visor so I dont always have it on). I'm thinking it would do best right towards the top of the bumper, just going to suck to deal with later on when I try to swap it out for a steel one (as much as I want to, probably won't happen for a year or so, need that rear one though for the spare), or just take the plastic cover off and leave the reinforcement behind it on while keeping the fog light mounts like in the Project Vulture thread.

 

[CDW6212R]

What do the pigtail connectors look like, and are they OEM? I have added a ton of OEM connectors in my 99 Explorer for many added circuits I installed. I love the OEM connectors of the late 90's Fords, those are vastly better than older stock connectors. They come in many sizes and varying numbers of wires. The ones outside all have seals for the wires to keep out most moisture.

So you would do best with OEM connectors that are found outside of the passenger compartment. There are several kind that have four wires, which may be what you need. Or things like the O2 sensors may have two or four wires depending on years etc. You can use any of those that you find as spares. Then after finding a pair that match, you hard wire the light wires to one connector, and the vehicle wires to the other. Then it plugs in and is protected well, unlike trailer wiring for example.

 

[DemonMudder]

What do the pigtail connectors look like, and are they OEM? I have added a ton of OEM connectors in my 99 Explorer for many added circuits I installed. I love the OEM connectors of the late 90's Fords, those are vastly better than older stock connectors. They come in many sizes and varying numbers of wires. The ones outside all have seals for the wires to keep out most moisture.

So you would do best with OEM connectors that are found outside of the passenger compartment. There are several kind that have four wires, which may be what you need. Or things like the O2 sensors may have two or four wires depending on years etc. You can use any of those that you find as spares. Then after finding a pair that match, you hard wire the light wires to one connector, and the vehicle wires to the other. Then it plugs in and is protected well, unlike trailer wiring for example.

This is what I mean, the connectors between the oem and the aftermarket ones are different styles. The diagram is the start of the new ones. They won't connect to the factory harness, meaning I can't use the foglight switch, which is exactly what I need. The wider connector is the factory harness, the smaller one is for connecting the harness between both fogs for the daytime running lights. Theres a long harness between the two to hook up the daytime running lights via one ground and one positive with an inline fuse with the end connector. Theres also some small extension bits for the "supposed" to attach to the factory harness. Also, tested them, they work when given power. The daytime running lights do not, so we were thinking maybe it's a common ground between them and the fog, so if those aren't ground then it won't come on, but then I'm not sure what the yellow wire is. Unless the yellow is a second positive for connecting a switch, just without a fuse like the other two had, but if that were the case, the red would be useless. I'm started to see why I put this project off again, pita of a project. They came with zero instructions than what's shown on that diagram which is backwards on the box

 

[DannyW]

Okay, getting back on top of A LOT of projects that have been put off for too long. Any suggestions for connecting two different pigtails? As mentioned in my foglight thread, they don't fit the oem mounts, which is still causing a bit of a problem that I'm working with, but the pigtails were different too. Thought about trying to just cut them and hardwire it, but that's a difficult task since I think I'd have to manually hook up the daytime running lights on the fogs separately. I'm not finding much on google for connecting different pigtails, so I figured I'd ask before I mess with anything. I can get pictures of the pigtails of each in the morning and send them. The link to the original thread when I first was trying to do this, is in the original post here. That and where do you think would be a good spot to mount about a 1" tall, like 20" long light strip on the front with 3m (possibly some mounts with screws on each end as well for a precaution)? Can't decide between the bumper or the grille guard mainly, debated the grille itself but I don't want it too hidden, besides I'll have the grille lights in there whenever I have those added and on (will have a seperate switch like the visor so I dont always have it on). I'm thinking it would do best right towards the top of the bumper, just going to suck to deal with later on when I try to swap it out for a steel one (as much as I want to, probably won't happen for a year or so, need that rear one though for the spare), or just take the plastic cover off and leave the reinforcement behind it on while keeping the fog light mounts like in the Project Vulture thread.

View attachment 427585

You might consider making your own. I use this kit from Amazon. Works amazing, and looks much like the OEM style. Get the tool for crimping as a kit.

 

[DemonMudder]

You might consider making your own. I use this kit from Amazon. Works amazing, and looks much like the OEM style. Get the tool for crimping as a kit.
View attachment 427602

Honestly at that point, may just hardwire my oem connector to the the new one if I'm going to that extent. I'm sure it'll fit that way

 

[DannyW]

Okay, getting back on top of A LOT of projects that have been put off for too long. Any suggestions for connecting two different pigtails? As mentioned in my foglight thread, they don't fit the oem mounts, which is still causing a bit of a problem that I'm working with, but the pigtails were different too. Thought about trying to just cut them and hardwire it, but that's a difficult task since I think I'd have to manually hook up the daytime running lights on the fogs separately. I'm not finding much on google for connecting different pigtails, so I figured I'd ask before I mess with anything. I can get pictures of the pigtails of each in the morning and send them. The link to the original thread when I first was trying to do this, is in the original post here. That and where do you think would be a good spot to mount about a 1" tall, like 20" long light strip on the front with 3m (possibly some mounts with screws on each end as well for a precaution)? Can't decide between the bumper or the grille guard mainly, debated the grille itself but I don't want it too hidden, besides I'll have the grille lights in there whenever I have those added and on (will have a seperate switch like the visor so I dont always have it on). I'm thinking it would do best right towards the top of the bumper, just going to suck to deal with later on when I try to swap it out for a steel one (as much as I want to, probably won't happen for a year or so, need that rear one though for the spare), or just take the plastic cover off and leave the reinforcement behind it on while keeping the fog light mounts like in the Project Vulture thread.

View attachment 427585

There's a guy that makes front/rear bumpers for the 2nd Gen Explorers, probably can for about any generation. I just finished mine last weekend.
Here's a peek at her, more to come

 

[DemonMudder]

There's a guy that makes front/rear bumpers for the 2nd Gen Explorers, probably can for about any generation. I just finished mine last weekend.
Here's a peek at her, more to come

View attachment 427603

I know RLC does, a few others they're more expensive than rlc is. So I'll probably go that route and spend 2k versus 4k for both bumpers.

 

[DannyW]

Honestly at that point, may just hardwire my oem connector to the the new one if I'm going to that extent. I'm sure it'll fit that way

Understood, and yes it will. Just use heat shrink butt connectors.
That kit is great for adding in other items, works great and looks stock.

 

[DemonMudder]

Cannot figure out the DRLs to save my life. Thought maybe the yellow is a switched ground, tried that and nothing still, the fogs work, DRLs we're at a loss for.

 

[DannyW]

I know RLC does, a few others they're more expensive than rlc is. So I'll probably go that route and spend 2k versus 4k for both bumpers.

RLC made this one. Not a straight bolt-on, gotta cut/drill the frame ends, but not bad.
-Dan

 

[DemonMudder]

Understood, and yes it will. Just use heat shrink butt connectors.
That kit is great for adding in other items, works great and looks stock.

Yeah, but I'm cheap and can hardwire it for free