-Deathrow Update Log-

[CDW6212R]

Yes, the three pucks for each motor are about 1/2" round and tall. Ford only drilled one hole for most of the window motor bolts in the doors, the missing two should have an obvious dimple to guide a drill bit. Use a 10mm socket to gauge the size of hole needed, they don't need a big 1/2" hole.

 

[DintDobbs]

@DemonMudder The window motor could be grabbing part of the lock/latch mechanism on the way down. This occurred on my Sport shortly after I got it (on the driver's side only) and I tied the latch rod out of the way of the window with a piece of twine. It has held thus for nearly seven years and never gave me an issue since.

Take the door apart and look at the mechanism while you operate it. Some one of your mechanical understanding will quickly see where the problem is. (There are many people to whom I would not give this advice, but you can be trusted.)

The rear windows aren't designed to go all the way down into the door. The wheel well cut-outs in the rear doors are pretty much the limiting factor. It's designed to work the right way from the factory, and messing with it might introduce other issues (different tracks might not line up with the door curvature; changing the track angle would likely interfere with the upper window guide, etc.)

 

[DemonMudder]

Oh awesome! Hopefully that's all it is, one of these days I'll take a look. Thanks for that!
I hope i can be trusted enough to notice, quite often I'll miss the most obvious things lol
I didn't even think about the wheel well, dang, guess that aint happening then..

 

[DemonMudder]

Also, whatcha think about trying to tap the electric fan into one of the sensors on the thrermostat housing? Thought the grey one was right, but now I'm unsure which, but that way it gets it's temp reading without me having to figure out where and how to put the temp probe it came with in somewhere? So just hook it to that connection, hook it to a manual switch (just in case), hook into ignition, ground it, fuse it, etc..that sounds plausible? Or do ya think that thermostat housing connection won't work? Funny enough, the probe they sent, bolts right into the thermostat housing, don't think it's supposed to go there though

 

[DintDobbs]

Are you sure it's not supposed to go into the thermostat housing? I would think that's a pretty good spot for it.

 

[DemonMudder]

Are you sure it's not supposed to go into the thermostat housing? I would think that's a pretty good spot for it.

Maybe? But as said, fhen I've got a connection there that's not plugged in, that brown one can no longer be plugfed in if I did put that in, so I'd assume that's not good? Do you knowthe difference between the brown and grey one? I can't find a difference, they're both a coolant sensor by the sounds of it.

 

[DemonMudder]

Nevermind, sounds like grey should be the ECT, the brown would be the IAT. Though also sounds like someone says one classifies as a switch and the other a sensor? So I'm really not sure offhand, but maybe I could tap the new temp wire into the grey connection wires somewhere up the line? Rather than replacing it with this new probe

 

[donalds]

Both are temp sensors you want to tap into the brown 1
I say use the brown 1 because it only goes to the gauge the gray 1 goes to the computer
You can verify that they are temp sensors with an ohm meter
If it was a switch it would read open and closed
I used a radiator probe on my fan and it's been working for years

 

[DemonMudder]

Both are temp sensors you want to tap into the brown 1 I used a radiator probe on my fan and it's been working for years

Thank you! Got an in line method for the upper hose on the way that I'm going to try first, since I dont want to take everything apart to try and get to those wires right now. But, I do have an update coming in a few minutes

 

[DemonMudder]

So, weird things I've noticed. Mostly addressed here but I'll summarize, I had the zip tie on the throttle cable in the first video which I thought was the cause of the stuck holding rev after I let off the pedal. Guessing it's the throttle body? Not sure what's causing that. Next, the smoke was just from fluids on the exhaust like I thought, the passenger side tensioner used to leak onto the headers causing smoke, so its still just burning some off. Next, you can hear in the second video, after a rev not only does it seem to get caught at 1500rpms after a rev for some reason, it also will almost die after too. After idling for a few it'll kill itself off anyway as you saw. Think either the alt or battery could be a problem? Battery has sat for like 2 months, but still had 12 volts, but without a jumper on it, wasn't enough to crank it, and each time it dies like the end of the second video, it is low on the dial, but I'm going to go back out in a few with a multimeter to get some actual readings. Also as youll hear in the second video, you'll hear me go quiet for a second right around 35 seconds, and you'll hear some sort of whine kick in the background?? Not sure what it is at all..
But overall, I'm just happy she runs, still curious on yalls thoughts on things, still waiting on the tranny line adapters so I can properly hook it to the radiator, but for now I just hooked the two lines together to make a loop.

 

[DemonMudder]

Okay, only codes I get ain't the reason for shutting off, but I got codes: p0755, p0743, and p0708. All transmission codes which throws me off some but any clues to that? Also, battery holds at between 14.2-14.28 volts while running slowly edging down, right around that 14.2-14.21 was when it shut off, after that it dropped straight to about 11 and slowly kept losing more and more. So my guess is the battery could be why it's shutting off at least. Still not figured out the rest though..

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Geez louise!!! Open headers?

That startup almost dying holding RPM sounds exactly like when I had my vac leak... hate to break it to ya bud, but it sounds exactly the same. I'd look for a leak somewher at least in my opinion.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

The blinking OD light reminds me of a song someone showed me every light on the dash is on (instead of every light in the house is on) hahaha!

 

[DemonMudder]

Geez louise!!! Open headers?

That startup almost dying holding RPM sounds exactly like when I had my vac leak... hate to break it to ya bud, but it sounds exactly the same. I'd look for a leak somewher at least in my opinion.

Where would you suggest being a primary source to check? Cause honestly I'm pretty darn sure I got it all. I also found that the small rubber elbow below the thermostat housing leaks ever so slightly, could hear it bubbling out through the top of the elbow after it shut off.



Pretty much. lol

 

[DemonMudder]

Well, probably won't help those codes, but I've got a new battery to try tonight, so we'll see if she can stay running or not at least.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Where would you suggest being a primary source to check? Cause honestly I'm pretty darn sure I got it all. I also found that the small rubber elbow below the thermostat housing leaks ever so slightly, could hear it bubbling out through the top of the elbow after it shut off.



Pretty much. lol

Honestly smok test... mine was from the y pipe at the IAC, but it could be a bazillion ones... argh vac leaks!

 

[DemonMudder]

Honestly smok test... mine was from the y pipe at the IAC, but it could be a bazillion ones... argh vac leaks!

Well as said, start with that battery, then I'll go from there, based on the hangup at 1500rpms each time, I'd guess there's a vacuum leak, but we'll see..hate to buy more crap

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Well as said, start with that battery, then I'll go from there, based on the hangup at 1500rpms each time, I'd guess there's a vacuum leak, but we'll see..hate to buy more crap

I mean Ive seen folks stick a cigar in mason jar to see where leaks are hahaha thats (close) to free

 

[CDW6212R]

The rpm's varying looks like the throttle cable not moving through smoothly, which would be very rare to happen. Can you find any kinks or bends in the cable, anything which might suggest it got pinched somehow?

The CEL codes look like all trans codes, I'd research those more to try to figure that out. Hopefully that's wiring.

The temp sensor, what kind of signal is it, and does the fan controller give you a lot of adjustment? I wonder if you could use the existing sensor signal, the one not connected to the PCM.

BTW, do not remove those temp sensors from the plastic housing, they are common causes of a leak or cracked housing. The upgraded later models, or aftermarket, solved that.

 

[DemonMudder]

@CDW6212R
I can look, but don't think there's any issues, could a vacuum leak keep the throttle open like that?
The tranny codes all have a chance of being low fluid, last I checked it was alright, but it may not have fully gotten cycled through to everything yet, especially since the truck hasn't moved or shifted yet. So I'm hoping that's all it is, same for the flashing overdrive off light.
No idea honestly, the listing doesn't give a whole lot beyond what each wire on the harness is either, plus they still haven't gotten back to me either. So I'll mess with it, but if not my other idea should work okay.
Oh I'm aware, shouldn't be much of a problem since I installed the aluminum t-stat housing, I just used the old plastic one in the picture to get an idea.

And funny enough @Fix4Dirt ,I thought about doing similar with a rag in a jar with a tube lol