So I will keep pestering you with questions. If you did this with uniballs and longer uppers and upgraded our shocks. Would that lift it in its self? Would we still need to spacer it? Would we get increased flex with or without a lift? I think those are all of the questions thanks.
Upgrading the shocks would not do anything as far as lifting it. You can lift the suspension in one of 3 ways, or maybe a mild combination of these 3:
-By making the entire strut assembly longer, i.e., a BTF spacer. The longer strut assembly pushes the control arms downward further than stock, giving you lift.
-By putting in a taller coil spring on an OEM length strut. It gives you lift, because the spring compresses a bit with the truck's weight on it, but still has more uncompressed length than a stock spring, so that pushes the control arms downward further than stock, giving you lift. Some people on here have tried this but the coils do settle over time, so you lose some of that lift.
-By putting a spacer between the stock coil spring and one of the coil spring seats on an OEM length strut. This keeps the stock coil spring from compressing as much when the weight of the vehicle is on it, so the result is the control arms are angled downward further than stock, giving you lift. The Rancho Quicklift strut assemblies work on this concept...it has a coil spacer built in so you get a fixed amount of lift and a tunable shock (for adjusting ride quality) all in one. You could probably find just the coil spacers by themselves instead of buying the Rancho Quick Lifts. Energy suspension makes some inexpensive universal ones that might work.
If you put in longer uppers and uniballs without changing anything else, the longer upper would throw off the alignment. If you put in a longer shock without changing the spring length, all you've got is a shock that can extend further than the spring can...doesn't do anything for lift.
To get more flex you need a longer spring AND a longer shock, (a long travel setup). This would also need new upper arms with uniballs to let you take advantage of the increased flex, and maybe some mods to the lower arm to make sure that lower balljoint stays happy. You would also need to extend the tie rods, extend or get rid of the swaybar links, and find some way to keep the CV joints from overextending...probably by lowering the differential. That's just for the front. The rear would still have the problem of the axle shafts hitting the frame.
