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Got the bad news... Help please

Update!!!

Ok so the update.

I replaced the fuel pressure regulator (thought I wrote a decent how to thread too but got no love for it)

I also had the exhaust replaced... 2 front Cats and a new muffler. Also had a broken o2 sensor so that got replaced also.

truck is STILL running like **** and as of this morning my wife broke down in it outside of the babysitters house (luckily it's about a 1/2 mile from her work so she walked it)

Same story... bucks under load... not starting easily (or as of an hour ago at all)

I know I have that 401 code to deal with now (the guy at Lou's exhaust said I have an EGR code)

Code the EGR valve be causing all of this.

I've been searching the forum and have had mixed results. I have found out that my 96 5.0 doesn’t have a dpfe sensor and just has a EGR valve positioning sensor. There is no part listing on Autozone.com and I thought I read I may have to take the upper manifold off just to change this out?

I thought American cars were supposed to be back yard mechanic friendly... my BMW is SO much easier to work on.

Please help with suggestions.

Cobraguy I'm looking at you handsome... so far you've been pretty dead on about everything you've told me.

thanks

Happy New Year!
 



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Oh and to add insult to injury...

My wife was "cleaning" on day and can't remember where she put the Hayne's manual I had been reading in the living room trying to read how to fix her car!

Ever feel like you're trapped in a bad episode of Punked?

:rolleyes:
 


















Try to remove and replace the position sensor first. It's tight, but you should be able to get it.
If that doesn't do it then you have to remove the intake to get to the egr housing, or, as I did, take the upper intake manifold loose. The screws on the damned things are so long that you may not be able to get 'em out otherwise.
I took the upper intake manifold loose and replace the gasket while I was at it.
There is a vacuum line on the egr, make sure that it is in good shape before you take the egr off. That baby you will have to feel your way thru if it is anything like mine.
 






Ok, no DPFE then you should have an EVR (Exhaust Vacuum Regulator).
The 401 error code points to the EGR and EVR. The EVR is between the EGR Valve and a Vacuum source so it should be easy to find and test. This link should help.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=43

Although a large vacuum leak could cause the lean codes and the EGR codes.
Have you checked the PCV? Ya never know.

Bob
 






Try to remove and replace the position sensor first. It's tight, but you should be able to get it.
If that doesn't do it then you have to remove the intake to get to the egr housing, or, as I did, take the upper intake manifold loose. The screws on the damned things are so long that you may not be able to get 'em out otherwise.
I took the upper intake manifold loose and replace the gasket while I was at it.
There is a vacuum line on the egr, make sure that it is in good shape before you take the egr off. That baby you will have to feel your way thru if it is anything like mine.

Can the throttle position sensor be cleaned? while it looks like its only $35 it kind of sucks just blindly replacing parts that you don't know is the problem.

And your talking about the air intake correct?

sucks but not too bad compared to some of the other engineering marvels with this truck

Ok, no DPFE then you should have an EVR (Exhaust Vacuum Regulator).
The 401 error code points to the EGR and EVR. The EVR is between the EGR Valve and a Vacuum source so it should be easy to find and test. This link should help.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=43

Although a large vacuum leak could cause the lean codes and the EGR codes.
Have you checked the PCV? Ya never know.

Bob

I actually have to check the PCV... I could never find it but yesterday I finally found a great picture of where its located on this site (5.0 engine was pictured on a pallette)

Oh god I would love it if it was just that easy!
 






Did you check the fuel pressure at the rail after changing your pressure regulator?
 






I had a problem with the PCV on my 98 4.0L last year. Returning from WI the engine died at 60mph. I got it restarted but it would not idle, I had to keep it over 2Krpm and the CEL was on. After I got home I discovered that the larger hose on the PCV had come off. I stuck it back on and put a small clamp on it. Amazing how much grief that thing caused. I thought I was going to be stuck 300 miles from home on Dec. 23rd. I don't know about the V8 but that thing was hard to find on the V6.

Bob

Edit:
You said it was bucking before it died, mine did that to. At steady throttle pressure it felt like it was turned off and on.
 






Where is it?

So my Haynes manual (yes I found it) gives no good pictues on where the ECR ? EVR is located. I took a few pictures of my wngine bay the first is of a hose I foudn cracked when I changed my PCV last night (Duct taped it to see it)

What is the hose? Whats it connected too? and what size so I can replace it.

ry%3D400.jpg


ry%3D480.jpg
 












Red arrow EVR
Green arrow EGR valve

Awesome thanks!

So I take it that cracked vaccuum hose is QUITE substantial and could possible have a lott o do with my current driveability issues!

Any idea what size hose that would be?

Figure I can swing byt he parts store and pick up a hose and try that FIRST before I go tearing in and replacing parts.

:)
 






I found a nice big rip in my orange diaphram on my 96 truck, you have to remove the entire elbow to service the EGR, dont be scared

Not sure of the hose size, just buy a few diff sizes! LOL
I have a box of hose its been a long time since I had to buy some! parting out trucks and engines = lots of spares!

IIf your truck is still having driveability issues ALWAYS start with the codes

Also you should check the fuel pressure if you have not already
a large vacuum leak will cause all sorts of stuff

Have you tried cleaning the MAS?
How are the spark plugs?
 






I found a nice big rip in my orange diaphram on my 96 truck, you have to remove the entire elbow to service the EGR, dont be scared

Not sure of the hose size, just buy a few diff sizes! LOL
I have a box of hose its been a long time since I had to buy some! parting out trucks and engines = lots of spares!

IIf your truck is still having driveability issues ALWAYS start with the codes

Also you should check the fuel pressure if you have not already
a large vacuum leak will cause all sorts of stuff

Have you tried cleaning the MAS?
How are the spark plugs?


Thanks.

I will swing byt the local AZ on my way home and grab a couple of vaccum hoses to try adn fix the obvious problem. Fingers corssed that solves it.

I know i have to check the fuel pressure again I need to get(borrow) a fuel pressure guage the dealership had done the original check for me before I changed the FPR.

I am trying to attack the codes one by one. Going after this EGR next then finally the lean codes (which I am hopinng ISNT another new fuel pump)

No garage and sh!tty Boston weather makes working on this that much more difficult too!

thanks for all your help guys.

really thanks.
 






Changed out that hose.. adn while I am sure my trucks happier for it it isn't showing it with improved performance.

Looks like the EVR runs about $30 and the EGR runs about $100.

Can I 1) remove the EVR and replace it without moving the elbow?

Or do you think I should replace the EVR and try cleaning the EGR with some brake kleen?

I'd rather spend $30 than another $130 and have it not work.
 






I would definitely clean it all first--use some suction to check the egr valve diaphragm-sometime the internal workings will gum up. Remember, there is a EGR position sensor also-this is the actual " low flow" reporting device. Make sure it switches state-
I'd try cleaning it also, with a soaking in wd40, then blow it out with air


Do you have any noticeable ticking, exhaust leaking sound?
 






Do you have any noticeable ticking, exhaust leaking sound?

Funny you say that I just noticed a ticking sound last night when I ran it witht he hood open
 






Funny you say that I just noticed a ticking sound last night when I ran it witht he hood open

The exhuast leak is very common on v8's-
the cheap headers develop a crack, under the protective heat shield.

Another cause for ticking could be an arcing spark plug wire-try to identify the source of the ticking-
 






I would definitely clean it all first--use some suction to check the egr valve diaphragm-sometime the internal workings will gum up. Remember, there is a EGR position sensor also-this is the actual " low flow" reporting device. Make sure it switches state-
I'd try cleaning it also, with a soaking in wd40, then blow it out with air

Let me get this straight (AGAIN THANKS FOR THE HELP THE HAYNES MANUAL IS REALLY NO HELP ON tHIS) Oops sorry for the caps

I shoudl remove bothteh EGR and EVR and soak them in WD40?

Where is the EGR position sensor located? How would i go about checking the status?

(I find that if I ask questions like a 2nd grader I get thorough answers as you'd give a seecond grader.. the I understand.. then I do it correctly)
 



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Hmmm... nothing...

Looks like I am pulling stuff apart blindly this weekend!

Wish me luck guys!
 






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