Jefe's SAS | Page 12 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Jefe's SAS

Everyone else has a SAS thread in here, so I figured that instead of being jealous, I'd just start my own :)

I've been planning this for a few months now, and the parts are now starting to collect.

The plan is to buy a TJ D30 front axle to use for sizing and testing purposes, and replace it with a custom HP D44 with a bunch of goodies as the project nears completion.

I will be using Rubicon Express TJ long arms. These are 36" long, and convert the TJ 4 link to a radius arm design. 36" back from the front axle lands the rear mounts right where the torsion bar currently mounts, and the TJ and Ex frame are the same width at that location, so it should make for a great bracket location.

I plan to run 2" remote res. coilovers. I won't decide how much travel they need until I've got the axle temp'd under and see amount of flex, ride height, etc. No point in shoving a 14" travel C/O WAY up into the engine bay if its not going to do me any more good than a 10" or a 12".

I will convert the steering pump and gearbox over to a 1st gen explorer setup. I am hoping that the TJ track bar and steering will work, but will have that custom made if it doesn't.

I'm hoping for about 6" of lift, but may have to settle for more depending on a few things. I'll do a SOA conversion in the rear, along with custom leaves to match front ride height. I will be taking out the 3" BL as one of the first steps.

I plan to start actual work on the project about halfway into April.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Originally posted by JoshC
Do you think you're going to need a sway bar up front after you get your revalving done?
Yes, and No. The revalving should prevent the occilating wobble. But the body's still gonna roll in a turn.

Reason for a sway bar:
I took a left turn at an intersection at ~20 mph to see how fast I could take it, just pushing the envelope. Well, the inside rear tire started chirping as all the weight shifted to the other side. . .and then that tire became eeirily quiet until I quickly straightened back out. I've lifted a front tire a few times with the IFS in turns like that, but nearly lifting a rear was pushing it a little too far :eek:
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Yeah, i'm in the same boat. I've never lifted a tire like that, but it does take a big dive when hitting the turns. I'd like to order one of those currie sway bars but i can't couch the money up for it.
 






mine isnt that flexy but it was flexy enough that i didnt let my wife drive it until i got front sway bars on it - i bootie fabbed some mounts to reuse the stock sway bar. made all the difference... when i mount second set of shocks on all four corners i hope to to take off the front sway bar.
 






Originally posted by Rick

Rancho 9000s in the rear cured my wobble. I used to experience the same conditions almost exactly as you described. A swaybar would certainly help as well.

You guys are coiled-over, but I know shocks made a huge diff so if you can stiffen the front up a bit you should be good to go. No one WANTs to have to put a sway bar on. I run 9000s in the rear and had duals up front till my busted trac bar took out the shocks. And that seemed fine, going 9000s up front and it should be better, can't race around in it but I don't care about that.
 






Finally got the pics from John:

Dead Link Removed

Better known as 'The Glancy brothers in their neverending quest for a tall enough flex rock' :)
 






I revalved the coil-overs last night. You can feel the bumps in the road now, rather than the feeling of riding on air. :p Its stiff enough that I'm actually wondering how bad its going to ride offroad now. However it doesn't seem to have changed the low speed dampening at all, so it doesn't stop any body roll.

My next thoughts are:
1. move the lower rear shock mounts out towards the leaf springs, near where they were stock. Currently they are on the sway bar mounts. Being further out means they should dampen roll better.

2. Add a pair of 9000's up front. That way I can valve the coil-overs for off-road only, and turn up the 9000's for onroad. I'm thinking adjustability is the key.

3. Add a sway bar, whether it be a stock TJ bar, the Currie Anti-Rock, or the one that Rick posted a link to earlier in this thread.
 






Wow! Both the rigs look great.

Where did you get that rear bumper from Jefe? Is that a swing out w/o the swing out part on?

I was up there last weekend to test a buddys latest wheelin mods out. I had lots of trouble with it being wet. And we did see the remains of one rolled nissan on that first section off Bouquet.
 






That looks awesome man...congrats...I am sure one day I will make it out on that side of the country and get to see it at Moab or something.
 






Originally posted by jobunn
Where did you get that rear bumper from Jefe? Is that a swing out w/o the swing out part on?
Its my bumper in progress. The stock shell will cover that frame up, and I'll have a tire on one side and gas on the other.
 






I cant believe how bad ass you truck is....

Damn im jealous...
 






Looks good Jefe!:D
 












Originally posted by Jefe
3. Add a sway bar, whether it be a stock TJ bar, the Currie Anti-Rock, or the one that Rick posted a link to earlier in this thread.

Is the currie worth the money? Aren't they like 250 bucks? I'm really thinking about spending the money on one because i can't hardly take the body roll any more. Trust me, it gets old fast!
 






that is BAD ASS I am amazed, Jeff you are awesome! Congrats on one clean rig!
 






holy crap! that's awesome jeff. great job!!
 






Jefe, you're going to have to get a sway bar. Yesterday i finally decided to rig mine up and it worked. I used my stock sway bar and bolted it to the bottom of the frame and i was able to use some new stock lenght jeep links. The frame is just a hair to wide for the sway bar mounts, but it works. I couldn't believe the difference it made. It took 100% of the body roll out. I took my wife fora ride last night and we got to big corner and i didn't slow down and she just about crapped herself cause she thought we were going to roll over and die, but it just hugs it now. I feel like i'm in a race car compared to what i had!:D
 






I redid my reservoir mounts, since on of them was hitting the IAC valve, plus this way looks cleaner:

11-23_4.jpg


11-23_5.jpg
 












Hey Jefe, i was wondering if you remember the size of the bolt you used for the steering box??? Was it metric or standard, i know a 1/2" (13 thread) is too big as well as a M12 (1.75) is also. Is it maybe a 3/8"
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Originally posted by Yomie
Hey Jefe, i was wondering if you remember the size of the bolt you used for the steering box??? Was it metric or standard, i know a 1/2" (13 thread) is too big as well as a M12 (1.75) is also. Is it maybe a 3/8"
Took me forever to finally figure out this one. I was dead set that it'd be metric. . but 10 is too small and 12 is too big, so I was like "great, who in the world makes an 11". . .I ended up going to the junkyard and pulling one to figure it out. Well, its standard. 7/16" coarse I believe.
 






Back
Top