Jefe's SAS

Everyone else has a SAS thread in here, so I figured that instead of being jealous, I'd just start my own

I've been planning this for a few months now, and the parts are now starting to collect.

The plan is to buy a TJ D30 front axle to use for sizing and testing purposes, and replace it with a custom HP D44 with a bunch of goodies as the project nears completion.

I will be using Rubicon Express TJ long arms. These are 36" long, and convert the TJ 4 link to a radius arm design. 36" back from the front axle lands the rear mounts right where the torsion bar currently mounts, and the TJ and Ex frame are the same width at that location, so it should make for a great bracket location.

I plan to run 2" remote res. coilovers. I won't decide how much travel they need until I've got the axle temp'd under and see amount of flex, ride height, etc. No point in shoving a 14" travel C/O WAY up into the engine bay if its not going to do me any more good than a 10" or a 12".

I will convert the steering pump and gearbox over to a 1st gen explorer setup. I am hoping that the TJ track bar and steering will work, but will have that custom made if it doesn't.

I'm hoping for about 6" of lift, but may have to settle for more depending on a few things. I'll do a SOA conversion in the rear, along with custom leaves to match front ride height. I will be taking out the 3" BL as one of the first steps.

I plan to start actual work on the project about halfway into April.

 

[nissanboy]

No doubt he made a great decision, I would go ARB if wanted a selectable locker. I was just pointing out I had heard that ARB's were not flawless as well.

 

[BKennedy]

I agree with Tom on the ARB. I have had a front ARB for over four years now and only recently am having trouble. Its not the locker, but electrical demons. I think I have it narrowed down, but don't have any time right now for repairs. Also, the locker, wiring and compressor I have were in Paul B's Explorer for nearly ten years before it went in my rig. 14 years with no problems, good luck beating that with anything else.

 

[r37ribution]

Jefe, Your truck looks really nice man, almost makes me wish I went SAS.

I was reading through the thread specifically looking for info on how the gearbox install went. I am very interrested since my rack is about to go and i need to replace a tie rod only 1k miles after i got my 35s. I have looked into Dixon Bros upgrade kit for the rack setup but for $400 I think I can upgrade and loose the rack for less.

I read through a lot of the thread but not all so I could have missed it. I did see your picture of the box partly installed.

Was just wondering if there were any issues installing it or did it fit fine on the stock crossmember?

 

[IZwack]

gearbox install.. I did see your picture of the box partly installed.

Now thats interesting idea- a gear box where a rack and pinion was originally used.

So is the drag link going to go through the cross member?

 

[Jefe]

Jefe, Your truck looks really nice man, almost makes me wish I went SAS.

I was reading through the thread specifically looking for info on how the gearbox install went. I am very interrested since my rack is about to go and i need to replace a tie rod only 1k miles after i got my 35s. I have looked into Dixon Bros upgrade kit for the rack setup but for $400 I think I can upgrade and loose the rack for less.

I read through a lot of the thread but not all so I could have missed it. I did see your picture of the box partly installed.

Was just wondering if there were any issues installing it or did it fit fine on the stock crossmember?

WHAT? I agree that the inner TRE's suck on the R&P but why would you want to go with a steering box??? You'd have to fab to mount the box (not sure you even could with the crossmember still in place), fab up a idler arm, fab up all new steering linkage to match the stock geometry, all the while trying to keep it inside the stock crossmember.

A week ago I would have told you to go with the Dixon Bros "upgraded" tie rod setup, but CG broke his brand new TRE running Golden Spike on Saturday.

I'd say keep the stock setup and carry a trail spare inner. I only had to replace the inners once before I yanked the R&P for the SAS. . . so less than once a year, and they aren't hard to replace.

 

[r37ribution]

I really had no idea how much was involved in it. I am in need of a rack soon so I figured why not upgrade it.

So your boy was running the Dixon setup and broke it?

 

[FROADER]

So your boy was running the Dixon setup and broke it?

 

[IZwack]

Was it bent/broken along the body or at the ball joint? I agree that the tie rods do look a little weak along the body and I recall seeing some images of bent tie rods - maybe sleeving it with pipe or tube would help prevent it from bending/breaking - just a thought.

BTW are those Krawlers? CG must be oozing $$

 

[Jefe]

Broke right at the start of the threads:

I think those are Truxxes. Not Krawlers though

 

[IZwack]

I think those are Truxxes. Not Krawlers though

Oh really? Sure fooled me!! (the wave and the square profile)

 

[RangerX]

CG runs Maxxis Creepy Crawlers. (the Other crawler)

 

[IZwack]

CG runs Maxxis Creepy Crawlers. (the Other crawler)

also $$

 

[FAT CAT]

Anybody remember that movie called Excalibur? There is a scene in it when King Arthur is fighting Lancelot & breaks the sword Excalibur. He looks at Merlin & says “Merlin, what have I done” & Merlin says “You have broken, that which could not be broken”

I was reminded of that when I broke that outer tie rod, I was pretty amazed! To be fair to Aaron Dixon though, his clevis system is made to work with his long travel A-Arm front end. To get it to work with the stock length arms he needed to put a 5 degree bend in the outer tie rod. I think what he did was put the ball joint end in a vice, then thread a tube on the other end and pull it to where it needed to be. That is what I think weakened the threaded area.

I bought a bunch of outer links & I’m going to experiment with bending them the 5 degrees by sliding a larger tube over the threads & pulling that…just need to figure out how not to ruin the threads.

I’m pretty sure it cracked/bent going through Golden Crack, that was the first time I felt a lot of binding pressure on the steering & just fought it & kept going. Usually when I feel that binding I back off a bit to ease it & go forward again.

I think Jefe’s idea of keeping some replacement stock ones is a good idea, they are pretty easy to change (even if you don’t know how to line everything up again like me ) Where the Dixon/Camburg one is going to help a lot is if you like running fast through rocky terrain, once you start banging them off rocks with 35” tires, you’ll bend them pretty quick.

“BTW are those Krawlers? CG must be oozing $$ ”

Mostly I ooze Bull Sh*T, but that's another story My tires are Maxxis Creepy Crawlers, a great tire for about $100.00 less each than the Krawlers… Speaking of tires…Colin do you still hate the Xterrains? They seemed to pull you over everything out there last weekend…

Sorry for the hi-jack, but I did see a picture of my sexy truck in here so I thought it was OK

R37 you should probably just get a new R&P set up or go solid like these guys said…