Just washed my engine

[Turdle]

Get an air compressor and blow out all of the electrical connectors, you'll be surprised how much water you'll find still in a "dry" engine in all of those nooks and crannies and in the electrical connectors. Also make sure your plugs don't have any water trapped under the boots. I remember this nightmare from my SHO days- holy crap those engines are like crepe paper and water. They don't get along at all... LOL!

If you do wash an engine, always hit it with compressed air to blow everything out as best as you can, and start it immediately and let it heat up to evaporate the rest off.

Yeah-the compressed air at 175 psi revealed no moisture to be found-

 

[aldive]

I prefer the leaf blower to compressed air. Compressed air can force water into places it doesn't belong.

 

[briwayjones]

You could also spray WD-40 in the electrical connectors. WD-40 (Water Displacement-40th formula) displaces the water off of the contacts.

 

[Jakee]

I was one of those that made the comment so now I feel sort of bad. I've never had a problem washing the engine. I do take care not to concentrate the spray on anything like the coil....ect. But other than that, I go to town with the high pressure stream at times. I've never ran into an issue with any engine that I've washed. I'm like Al, as soon as I'm done, I crank it up and let it run for a bit. I then get on the highway and go around 2 billion miles an hour to dry it. (joke).

I agree, if you let it dry, I'm sure it'll be like normal again. Just need to find where the water is getting in.

 

[Turdle]

Exhibit A

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=204020

 

[MountaineerGreen]

You verified the PCM connection was dry?

 

[CDW6212R]

It's good to read that you fixed the trans wiring. Is the MAF okay now, or do you need to hunt an SCT BA unit soon?

I washed under the hood of my 99 back in about July(first time after 14k miles). The fan controller and the switch I added for selecting ignition versus oil pressure didn't do well. It caused my fan to not work at all, which I found out a day later, reaching 270 degrees. I have RTV'd those, but I will avoid getting the add on electrical stuff wet any more. Regards,

 

[Turdle]

Yes-we are all friends. I can take it-

Y'know how you are forgetting something-and it's right there but you can't put your finger on it?

I was going to get gas-that's why I even drove the thing yesterday-when it didn't shift I and came right home.

Ummm, I'm just about out of gas.

I'm going out now to take out the console, and recheck the wiring because the Maf signal looks good, and it still isn't shifting.

Good Times

 

[Turdle]

Hey!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

Chriswells78!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Another thing I just remembered--ha ha
I still have that PCM and PATS of yours.

As a shotgun attempt-if I feel the need, can I swap the PCM?

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
that question is for all--do I need to swap pats also? hmmm?

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, if you use his PCM, PATS, and keys/cylinders. I have a spare 98 PCM which did me no good hunting for my no-start issue two years ago.

Do you have a CEL to check for a trans code? A shift signal problem is usually very easy to diagnose, there are only two wires for shifting. Recall that I have a 95 Crown Vic that I installed two relays and a switch for, I can disable 3rd and 4th gears with it. It throws a code very quickly though.

 

[Turdle]

Yes, if you use his PCM, PATS, and keys/cylinders. I have a spare 98 PCM which did me no good hunting for my no-start issue two years ago.

Do you have a CEL to check for a trans code? A shift signal problem is usually very easy to diagnose, there are only two wires for shifting. Recall that I have a 95 Crown Vic that I installed two relays and a switch for, I can disable 3rd and 4th gears with it. It throws a code very quickly though.

Thanks--
Now I am almost certain I blasted the connections I made loose--those 2 wires were broken before-touching each other. They are the shift solenoid signal wires, the old jet modules attempted to delay the signal, bumping the pressure a bit.
It was spliced in, ---and removed.
I'll bet one is open now--

This time I will solder the wires.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's likely a good bet with that old wiring issue. Those aren't high powered wires, if they do see vibration I would solder them for sure.

With the huge amount of wiring I have done, I learned to crimp the low powered safe wires, and solder high powered and endangered wiring. I still need to invest in better soldering irons etc, but basic knowledge is what you need to get good results. I think that you've got it.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Jon you could make a soap opera out you & your Mounty.:

 

[Turdle]

But she is still cool-even when broke.
Thanks for all the help Dan--:You are part of the reason I got into this mess--

OK
No dice on the wiring-it was looking ok, but I soldered it to be sure-and checked the connector down there-blew it out-

For review-
I get no clue as to what is wrong visually-No check engine light-speedometer works-no flashing OD light. I can switch the OD off and the od off lights up.

Now, the symptoms are--
idling at 1100, should be 950
when shifted to "1" it will move, and run on up. When shifted to "2" it will shift to 2nd gear-
However-
when shifted to "D" , from a dead stop, it will not shift into 2nd, but if I drop it to "2" it will.

 

[Gadget X]

I don't know the specifics on how your tranny works, but on the A4LD the governor will cause that. Does your tranny even have a governor? I don't know, but the circuit that works in it's stead may have something to do with it. Hope you find the problem soon.

 

[CDW6212R]

If it had a CEL I'd bet on the trans wiring for sure. Without it I wonder if something odd like the MAF might be causing that also. Can you swap the MAF to check it, how much different are the two? I'd worry more about the MAF, even though the trans seems like a bigger deal. I doubt that you washed the engine at the same time that something went wrong with the 4R70W.

 

[Turdle]

I'm going to try the lightning electrics in the pro -m housing.

Then, as a last resort, I have a pcm, pats and ignition switch from Chriswells truck.

On a side note-
I drove it for a block with the trans hump panel removed. It sure blocks a lot of noise.

I'd like to ask someone with a diagram if there are any transmission relays or fuses under the hood?

All I see are PCM fuses, and GEM fuses.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'd use the whole LMAF, it is a matched set. The Pro M is designed for a modified sensor, not stock sensor. If the MAF's are the same size then they may be very close in function.

 

[rustysurfer]

There is a breather hole on top of the transmission. I know if you sink you explorer in the mud it will fill up then your tranny is shot. Not sure if water got in yours while you were washing it. Could be the problem to the bad shifting.

 

[Turdle]

There is a breather hole on top of the transmission. I know if you sink you explorer in the mud it will fill up then your tranny is shot. Not sure if water got in yours while you were washing it. Could be the problem to the bad shifting.

Oh boy--
When I checked the fluid -you know earlier yesterday, I just pulled the dipstick and looked for red-which there was, so --I just went to take another look,
The level is indeed too full. It's clear up on the wire-over the white plastic indicator tip, with the engine running and shifter in nuetral.

So, I guess I'll head out later tonight and get some transmission fluid-I'll drain this and see if indeed there is water in it, and if there is, hopefully a flush will save the transmission. It hasn't been driven 2 miles like this-
Amsoil transmission fluid will not be used for this test--



Why the high idle? Would water have less drag in the torque converter?