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MrQ's Red Flyer

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Yeah, I could and have been tossing it around in my mind:

Problems:
-Need to refill the gear lube ($5)
-Need conversion set to manual hubs ($20-$50)
-Need to replace the tie rod ends ($50)
-Need to replace the RA bushings ($24)
-Need to replace the Pivot arm bushings ($5)
-Possibly turn the rotors ($20)
-Need an alignment ($80)

$230 more or less.

And it all has to be done at one time. That's about 90-100% of one paycheck.

Who's picture did you highjack? That one is 4x4, last I checked, yours was not....

Do you have bad TRE's now? Because the 2wd and 4wd steering is the same I beleive.
 



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Thats what I was thinking, I would think you would be able to swap out your new tie rods. And you don't need manual hubs to get it all working do you? Couldn't you just leave the autos unplugged from the vacuum line and let the wheels freewheel to get you going?
 






What vacuum line? :scratch: I want the hubs on there to protect the wheel bearings and other important stuff.

I was hoping you were going to say that 91. I have brand new TRE's currently. If they are interchangeable then my job just became sooo much simpler. :D
 






What vacuum line? :scratch: I want the hubs on there to protect the wheel bearings and other important stuff.

I was hoping you were going to say that 91. I have brand new TRE's currently. If they are interchangeable then my job just became sooo much simpler. :D

I thought the auto hubs were controlled by vaccume from the enginer? :dunno: never mind.
 






I thought the auto hubs were controlled by vaccume from the enginer? :dunno: never mind.

Maybe on the 2nd or 3rd gens?

My CATHUNKS!! under the floorboards are getting worse. If I don't get those bushings replaced soon, I am looking at a very expensive PITA repair. I don't look forward to throwing a new radius arm cross member under the truck and I won't be able to get anything done about it till Tuesday. :mad:
 






Actually, the 1st gen is the only generation with any form of disconnecting front hubs. All 1995 and up Explorers front wheels are permanently connected to the front driveshafts. My only guess is that Ford engineers decided that any minimal fuel economy gain by disconnecting the front wheels on the highway was not enough to outweigh the problematic and unreliable auto hubs.

But back on topic... good luck! Be sure you don't underestimate the project. It can turn into a nightmare if you encounter something you were not expecting. Plan for the unexpected.
 






Be sure you don't underestimate the project. It can turn into a nightmare if you encounter something you were not expecting. Plan for the unexpected.

Oh, I fully expect it to be. Along with my other nightmares of replacing rotors, calipers, and pads on a 98 Ram 1500 that takes till 9:30 at night. And a water pump that dies in middle of nowhere on a vacation and its a 4 hour round trip to get the part. Or even installing an overhead console with half the truck pulled apart. Now those are nightmares burned vividly into the cerebellum. They are also the most memorable. :D
 






What vacuum line? :scratch: I want the hubs on there to protect the wheel bearings and other important stuff.

I was hoping you were going to say that 91. I have brand new TRE's currently. If they are interchangeable then my job just became sooo much simpler. :D

Sorry, I just looked it up on autozone, they have different PN's. The 4x4 ones are 19.99 each.
 






I don't know. I do know that parts suppliers like to classify all parts as either 2wd or 4wd, ever batteries and headlight bulbs. I just looked some up on rockauto, they all appear to look the same.

Here is a sure way to tell: is the steering knuckle on the 4x4 parts the same? If the socket for the tie rod ends are located on a different part of the 4x4 knuckles, or if the socket is different in any way, then the tie rods are different.

But if the 4x4 steering knuckles are the same molds on your your truck from looking on the inner side, then there should be no reason why they should not work.
 






I think the 4x4 ball joint has a longer stem for the larger knuckles. It's rather a moot point anyway, because I can pick up a set for $20 from rock auto.
 






I don't know. I do know that parts suppliers like to classify all parts as either 2wd or 4wd, ever batteries and headlight bulbs. I just looked some up on rockauto, they all appear to look the same.

Here is a sure way to tell: is the steering knuckle on the 4x4 parts the same? If the socket for the tie rod ends are located on a different part of the 4x4 knuckles, or if the socket is different in any way, then the tie rods are different.

But if the 4x4 steering knuckles are the same molds on your your truck from looking on the inner side, then there should be no reason why they should not work.


They had different part numbers and looked slightly different. The 4x4 knuckle is much different than the 4x2, the 4x4 has different ball joint spacing, as well as being larger to allow space for the u-joint and outer axleshaft. The 2wd uses a solid spindle, the 4wd uses a hollow spindle for the shaft to go through. However, if I were the one doing it, I would have made the TRE holes in the same place, to simplify manufacture of the parts.

PS, I like your sig line MrQ, seems like I have seen it somewhere before.
 






LoL!! Yes you have. I just thought it was too cool not to be part of my sig. :cool:

BTW, I just got my garage computer set up and am typing from it right now.. Its an old 866mhz Dell with 512mb memory. Right now I am using a wireless connection and it seems to work pretty well. The 15in CRT will take a little while to get acclimated to, though, since I have really gotten used to my 20" LCD upstairs. :)
 






garage computer? Seems like a waste of space that could be used for something else, like a plasma cutter, welder, bender, nice toolbox.... Lol.

I would like to have internet in my shop, however, as it is about 100 yards from the nearest phone line we can't do that yet. (Oh, BTW, dial up only where I live)

You figure out what you are going to do about the radius arm nuts? I would look at northern tool for a socket, was there today and they had all kinda big sockets for very resonable prices. Soon as I remember to do so, I'm gonna take a RA nut and measure it so I can get a socket myself.

I thought the auto hubs were controlled by vaccume from the enginer? :dunno: never mind.

Ford did use some vaccum actuated hubs, on the ranger and superduty. What you might have seen is people swapping the ranger knuckles onto a 2nd gen Explorer. Like your later post says, ford did not put vaccum hubs on any explorer.

(Sorry if it looks like I posted 3 times, I edited it all into one to clean up your thread a little :D )
 






garage computer? Seems like a waste of space that could be used for something else, like a plasma cutter, welder, bender, nice toolbox.... Lol.

LOL. I have wanted a computer out in the garage forever. It really makes a difference when trying to find and identify parts. I'll get that other stuff later. So far the HOA hasn't said anything about my auto mechanical endeavors, but sooner or later...

I would like to have internet in my shop, however, as it is about 100 yards from the nearest phone line we can't do that yet. (Oh, BTW, dial up only where I live)

Oh, that sucks. I hate dial-up. I am so glad we tossed that technology out the door 10 years ago. Windows XP, however....

You figure out what you are going to do about the radius arm nuts? I would look at northern tool for a socket, was there today and they had all kinda big sockets for very resonable prices. Soon as I remember to do so, I'm gonna take a RA nut and measure it so I can get a socket myself.

I think its a 28mm. Funny though, the guy that removed the radius arm nuts when I pulled the axle used either a 24 or 25mm. :scratch:


Ford did use some vaccum actuated hubs, on the ranger and superduty. What you might have seen is people swapping the ranger knuckles onto a 2nd gen Explorer. Like your later post says, ford did not put vaccum hubs on any explorer.

(Sorry if it looks like I posted 3 times, I edited it all into one to clean up your thread a little :D )

Why vacuum though? Maybe for better auto engagement?
 












Who knows. The superdutys have what looks to be a manual lockout, but instead of lock and free, it has lock and auto. I imagine that the auto setting is not as strong, or only works in one direction, or something, otherwise, why bother?:scratch:

When I finally acquire one, I am going to put a free spin kit on it that swaps the spindle and gives you a good ole fashioned warn lockout, as well as tapered roller bearings instead of the expensive unit bearing they use now.
 






DON'T question Ford engineers. They are infinite in their wisdom and never make mistakes.;)

That made me laugh :D. Ask how good an idea the TTB F-350 was, or the single cam focus' exhaust routing. Or, one that I find really frustrating, they widened the window glass on the F-Series about a 1/4 of an inch in 92, so window glass on those style trucks is split, you have 80-91, 92-96. The doors are interchangable, but the glass is not. We won't even talk about the pinto.
 






Putting Red back together:

Before:

Accident001.jpg


Accident002.jpg


Accident003.jpg


Work in Progress:

Accident004.jpg


Accident005.jpg


Accident006.jpg


Accident007.jpg


Completed

Accident015.jpg


Accident014.jpg
 









Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

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It's the closest color I could find in the JY.
 






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