How to: - My A4LD Rebuild Diary - Pt 4 - Postscript | Page 4 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: My A4LD Rebuild Diary - Pt 4 - Postscript

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
The ZC is 2.317. And if you go to the FIRST post in the Diary I believe it links all 4 threads there. I'll double check and if not I'll fix it.

[edit] it was there. Brooklyn yer making more work for me again!
 



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Thanks for the information. Do you think the specifications are wrong on Aceomatic's website for listing a larger size? I wonder if they just made their part a little bigger to increase the pressure above the OEM specifications. I did see mistakes in other listing that they have on both their website, and in the catalog. I brought it to one of the tech's attention. He said that they would look into it, but the mistakes are still on their website.
 






I'm sorry to make more work for you. It was just that in the sticky above, it stops by the end of the 3rd part. I thought that maybe it would just continue into this thread like the other 3 parts. Anyway, could this be a sticky thread listed underneath the 3 part diary in the stickies above?
 






I don't know. (Yet again, I am saying that more and more) The Axiom (Aceomatic's current name) catalog only lists the ZC as the biggest. Yet I have heard of an "F" ... somewhere somehow.... could THAT be the bigger one? I dunno. For me the ZC is fine.
 


















Is there an exploded view of the A4LD?

I am having difficulty getting the thing back together. I get everything stacked correctly, I think, and I lack a 1/32 in. so the center support doesn't seat properly. Any pictures or ideas to help find the extra 1/32?
 












Thanks

Thanks again. You are the Man! I'll be driving in on time. I'm working with a bunch of gearheads that don't know anything about automatic Tranny's so I'm learning as I go. Thanks for your patients.
 






I have followed your advice in these pages and did what I thought was a correct rebuild. Here is where the real novice in me comes out. the A4LD is back in, and because it sat, got a new torque converter, but when I went to test drive...nothing. Just spun, I'd guess, but didn't even try to engage. Any ideas? I'm out of 'em, and I would really like to see my truck back in business.
 












seal protectors

the pictured seal protectors are very expensive and nearly unobtainable over here in Europe. Are they absolutely necessary for a rebuild, or is there any substitution ?

Thanks,
Stocki
 






They are good to have, but not absolutely necessary. Here is a universal lip seal installation tool: http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/Transmission_lip_seal_installer_tool_p/300-000jt0015.htm
300-000JT0015-2.jpg

Lubegard makes a universal cone seal driver kit called Seal-E-Zee: http://lubegard.com/~/C-191/LUBEGARD+Seal-E-Zee+Step+1
http://lubegard.com/~/C-193/LUBEGARD+Seal-E-Zee+Application+Cone+Set
item17_box4.gif

An alternative is to place the part with the seal in the freezer prior to installation.
 






the rear sun shell, reverse clutch, forward drum and clutch assembly

hey i have a question. i am rebuilding one of these things mostly it has gone decent the rear sun shell, reverse clutch, forward drum and clutch assembly id my sticky issue i put it together several times and when the two shell pieces come together like the egg there is a small gap between them only about a 1/16 of an inch not sure if that is normal or within tolerance, about the only way to eliminate it that i can find is to remove the thrust washer from it.(no i dont plan on doing that lol)the clutches all seem to line up in the groove when I try and then slide pieces out carefully. i figured if this thread is still running I may be able to get a couble check. i have a few days before my last parts come in . one other question is i had a pain tring to get the pin out for the linkage, so I ordered the pin remover tool(looks like a hollow drill bit, any one have any experience on that tool, looks simple enough use the pin to center the bit an drill in slightly not going in too deep , just seeing if I should even attempt it :usa:
 






Welcome to this forum! Don't use a drill bit. Take two flat screwdrivers, and grab the pin. A little space in the sun shell is normal just as long as it's not the snap design which is a close fit.
 






As far as the pin it is not a drill bit per say it has a hollow point to ride on the pin so you can get a better bite and comes with pins that taper down to the origional size from the new size. As far as the gap I am glad to hear that it is not a snap lock design or anything just 2 toothed pieces that fit together and has a small gap probably about the thickness o a nickel or so. I figured It would be acceptable all the hard parts were fine and I was caution on order of parts . The Trans just had a shifting issue where it Wouldnt shift correctly on first run you had to manually shift the first time then it would. I swapped with a used one and it messed up on me where it would drive in any gear as long as I didn't shift into over drive then it wouldn't go anywhere in any gear until I let it rest in park. I decided to rebuild the origional one. I assume it's issue is in the valvebody or governor but I get tired of replacing same parts lol figure best to rebuild so I can say I trust it more. I plan on checking the tolerances even though I assume they are good being it is origional parts except for clutches I just need to make the guage for it I bought the micrometer and depth guage.
 






2 question

hey guys i started this build about a month ago with the purpose of not rushing myself, but due to other things happening at the same time i am starting to lax on that . i have 2 main questions the first is about the seals on the center support, i origionally swapped them out of my kit and basically sized them by popping it in the center support for aday or 3 but when I went to put the parts back in i had to put it in and out a couple times and i cut a seal. i asked WIT trans for a couple more and they gave me a oring that to me looks a little thinner, and more what worries me it did not have the white color code on the outsidethe p/n supposedly being 56179v (may have had 2 blue stripes) for now i stuck one of them on there. question is is that stripe that important, should i just go through the hassle to get one from another source, i just dont have enough experience. the other issue i am wondering about is i put the clutch packs , sun gear and other pieces that go between the center support and reverse drum together (looks like an egg with the castle tower like teeth that locks together) which i have asked about before.... some space is between the teeth which is supposedly fine (about a 1/16 of an inch or maybe the size of a pencil tip off a =2 pencil) but when i put it in and the center support in i can only turn the output shaft one way... i am sure it is not part of the tech manual to do that but my thought is i believe it should be able to go both ways and if i cant then most likely i am binding up. i know i am supposed to take the measurement befor i put it all togetherand i have tools and plan too. i figure it should be fine as the only parts that have changed is the clutches and steels(all other hard parts were fine ) so the clearances should be there .... i have come too far to start rushing now i miss my mustang and figure talking to you guys will at least give me a good reason to not rush i would hate to pull it out due to a bad oring choice... thanks to all this thread rocks:salute:
 






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