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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Thanks again 4pointslow!!
I only stabbed myself once, and not even that badly.
What worked for me was:
1. Wrap electrical tape on both sides of where I'm about to cut.
2. Cut around the braid without staying in any one spot too long (melts the electrical tape).
3. unwrap the electrical tape, and re-wrap the end the fitting is going on using a very slight overlap on the end, and stretching the tape really tight. This compresses the hose really well, and doesn't leave any steel braid sticking out to catch on the end when installing and create misery. Also, only use about one and a half wraps to keep the outside diameter from increasing un-necessarily.
4. add some assembly lube to the outside of the electrical tape and push the fitting on. It was super easy.
I might have over complicated this, but my hands are still sore from the first attempt and didn't want to get stabbed by the braid ends again. After installing the ends, I did run around the end of the fitting with a knife to pull off the exposed electrical tape for a cleaner look.
Once you get the whole fuel system done pressure test it, before putting everything else back together. Better to find any leaks before it is all back together.
My wife is starting to throw comments at me about being absent. I did warn her I would be pretty much unavailable thru this process. I don't think it really helped. Last night was just going so much better than the night before, I didn't want to stop the progress.
I'm bar-tending tonight, so nothing will happen. This weekend I'll dump a couple of litres of mercon 5 synthetic in the new torque converter and install it. I'll also install the lower intake.
I'm really wrestling with changing out the rest of the atf fluid. I do have a drain plug in the bottom of my trans pan. Even if I didn't change the filter, I could easily change the fluid (Its just kinda cost prohibitive). Then, If I'm changing the fluid, I should really drop the trans pan and change the filter. It just doesn't stop.
edit: my engine dipstick was welded yesterday. The welder did a great job. He said he used tungsten steel to make the welded area even stronger. He did a great job. One less oil leak.
I removed the amount I needed and used a tube just large enough to go over the cut area, like a sleeve. Once it fit good, I marked it with a sharpie and took it to an exhaust shop to have it welded. It did create 2 welded areas, however butt welding that thin tube together would have been too tricky.
I'm pretty sure it's stainless. You might get lucky and find a slightly larger chunk of egr tubing off another vehicle. In my case a chunk off a 1984 dodge truck worked
Ah, recycling. Love it.
I just cut my egr tube to a but joint exactly where I need it.
I have another welder/fabricator I can take this to and see what he says. I have no doubt he will do a superb job, its just going to cost me. That and he's super busy, I took a couple of aluminum bungs to get welded up and he says it will be a few days. I can hardly wait to hear what he's going to say tomorrow morning
Good thing we get along well.
you know what i JUST thought of now??? i have a few templates of the egr made from steel from when i was going to make those m112 mounts, and intake tubes!!!! we could have just put them in between the valve and intake elbow and used it as a spacer with longer bolts!!!!!!!!
The good news is I measured pushrod length correctly and the rockers installed perfectly.
Bad news, calve covers are (were) not wide enough to clear the roller rockers. Some massaging, and I am good to go.
Too bad for the powder coating. I'll give that area a good sand and paint. It will be far from perfect, but its not like there's much visible with the engine dress installed.
If all goes well, Tim will help me get the block back in this weekend. Once its bolted to the trans, I'll be able to work away at the top and front dress myself.
I sure hope that egr tube fits when it comes back from the welder.
Very nice Don, I just found this. Great work there on everything.
BTW, did you find out what size the block oil filter adapter is? Those are sized for the given filter, most 302 blocks have the FL-1A adapter in it. That's how some 4.0's use the FL-1A, and the later 4.0 engines take the FL-820S like your 302.
My 302 block still has it too, I haven't hunted that special large Allen bit yet, it's around 5/8" or so.