Not another V8 swap thread (N2Ford)

[RangerSVT]

The 98 has the vss going through the abs module, 98 was the changeover year for the injectors, some had the older EV1, others have the newer EV6. If you have the return style fuel system, imo I'd run the non pats ecu from 96-97 (SLL1, SLL2, SLL3, SLL4, XDT1, XDT2, XDT3)...

SVT

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, thanks, I thought the ABS module was required for it, I'll be using a 99-02 Mustang unit.

I'll need to find the late 97 computer, if it mattered for the different EGR(mid 97 change).

Have you done tuning on both kinds, does it make any difference? I'll ask James also when I get farther along. Regards,

 

[RangerSVT]

Here's today's progress, and for the pic happy people. Here's the EV6 injectors and returnless fuel rail...

Here's the oil pressure sensor plug on the 99...

And here's the oil pressure sensor for the 96-98 harnesses...

Here's the 96-98 cam syncronizer plug...

Here's the 99-01 two wire plug...

Not pictured, but the 96-97 alternator harness is separate from the engine harness. Here's a shot of the 98-01 setup with it running with the engine harness...

Here's the EV6 injectors and the returnless fuel rails installed...

Here's where I stopped. When I removed the upper intake, the gasket tore, so I need to get another one. Here the 99 harness is on the motor, with the upper intake just sitting on the motor...

This motor has been sitting for a while. The throttle body has corrosion built up around the blade, and I couldn't open the throttle, the alternator was rusted where it couldn't be turned by hand, the pullies are all stiff, and the serpentine belt, although a new motorcraft belt, was stuck to every single pulley. Pulled the belt off, put a ratchet on the alternator and broke it loose, when put my cordless impact on it and spun it for about 5 seconds. It spins freely now. Put a ratchet on the crank expecting it not to turn over, but it did. The AC compressor feels stiff, so Ill probably use the one off the 4.0.
The trans harness has the same connections from the 98 harness and the 99-01, with no vss in the trans/tcase.

SVT

 

[N2FORD]

I really don't plan on doing a tuner. If that will help things out for you now and me later I would be willing to look into it. With the combo of different year items that are being used I am a little concerned it might not work correctly. I have never been real good with that kind of stuff.

 

[CDW6212R]

If the combination is all stock Explorer parts, the stock tune will be fine. Only if you upgraded something a lot would it have to have a tune.

The PATS could be an issue though, which might force you to get a tune just to turn that off.

 

[just1me]

True but if you can get the Pats from the 99 Explorer it should work. The theft light will no longer blink, but there is a trick to fix that also.

 

[RangerSVT]

With what im doing, Dave, it'll be a stock 99 model motor, just like if you had a 99 donor. This motor is now identical (including all added/replaced parts) to the motor in my sport trac.
Don, I haven't done a lot of tuning, and I'm still learning in that field. I know the OBD2 ecu can be tuned to use or delete any of the emissions including egr (mine is deleted in tune, but present on the motor for visual effects), return or returnless fuel systems, different size injectors (not sure if the pulse width is adjustable, im running SCT, and will be purchasing the pro race package so I can further self tune, I'll learn the limitations at that time), different size maf, etc. I think they also have the ability to control a 2 speed electric fan, but not 100% on that. My handheld has the ability to adjust the temps for turn on/off, but I'd have to wire it into the ECU...

SVT

 

[damarble]

Subbed.

 

[RangerSVT]

Got some more done today. The brake lines from the explorer were in bad shape, so I went to the junkyard and got some replacement parts...

Got the axle in the truck...

Here's the replacement line. I also had to replace the driverside flex line, as the mount to the hardline was rusted...

Here's the new rotors Dave bought. I almost put them on my truck, lol...

Here's the driverside flexline...

Cause of the lift, the flex line was stretched tight when the suspension was full droop, so instead of putting the flex line in the bracket, I pulled the hard line down to give it more slack...

Here's the E brake cable connected...

I would have got the wheels back on it, but I need to replace the E brake shoes as they were cracked, which is a common problem. That's all for today, gonna get some more done tomorrow...

SVT

 

[RangerSVT]

Got some done today, but cut short by the rain. Through the rear tires on temporarily to move it around. Started pulling the motor, got the hood off, battery out, rad out, fan shield, ECU & 42 pin plug disconnected, fuel line disconnected, cruise control & throttle cable disconnected, emissions tube disconnected, 12 pin alternator harness disconnected, power steering return line, airbox, heater hoses, vacuum lines feeding heater control valve, vacuum line feeding brake booster, bjb power feed line, and motor mount nuts. Also got the rear driveshaft out, and that's where I had to stop as the rain was moving in...

SVT

 

[ttbit]

Glad to see this moving along! I didn't mean to be absent the last 4 months!

 

[RangerSVT]

Updates. When I pulled the harness from the junkyard, every one of the locking clips on the injector plugs broke off. Over time they get brittle. I didn't like the way they were loose on the injector, so I got some replacement plugs...

Here is a closeup of the locking clip...

Here you can see the clip that's broke on the harness...

Here is one plug replaced, next to a broken plug, sitting on the injector...

After that was done, it was time to install the new finewire platinum plugs...

According to Ford, plug gap should be between .052-.056. I gapped them at .055. The old plugs were gapped between .042-.046...

After they were installed, then I swapped the exhaust manifolds. All but one bolt was reused on each side. I needed a longer bolt...

The motor is now ready to drop in. I've got another intake gasket, but the upper intake needs to be removed for installation. I might install the 4406 before it goes in. I continued prepping for the motor to come out. Got both driveshafts out, disconnected the shifter cable, tcase electrical connector, and started getting the exhaust unbolted from the motor. This is where things got bad. Got the driver side without a problem. The passenger side, however, was a royal pain to get to. Got one nut off, but when I went to get the other off, it finally broke free with a lot of force, causing me to badly injure my arm in the process. Got a pretty bad hematoba just above my elbow. It was immobile for about 2 hours. Still can't bend it more than 50% without assistance. With the pain I was in, I was done for the day. Tomorrow I hope its feeling better, my goal is to have the 4.0 out and at least have the 5.0 in and mounted. Starting Thursday I'll be back on 14 hr days for about a week or so, so progress will be slow after tomorrow. Also noticed looking through the pile of replacement parts that the fuel filter is the wrong type. There are two types, a 2" diameter and a 3", Dave has the 3", but got the 2". I ran into the same problem with my setup. The 3" isn't available from our favorite parts store, so I might order a couple from rock auto...

SVT

 

[CDW6212R]

Good work, and take it easy on that arm. My right arm and elbow have been sore and weak for about a month. My work will do it to you, and getting over it takes longer with my age.

I like how clean those manifolds look, that truck was in a good climate.

BTW, what does that non-pressure regulator do again? I didn't recall that it had a vacuum line to it.

 

[RangerSVT]

Today's progress. I got the 4406 mounted to the trans...

Installed the shift motor from the 1354...

Motor's on its way out...

Here it is on the ground...

Pulled the AC compressor from the 4.0, installed it on the 5.0...

Here you can see the difference in motor mounts...

Went to install the drivetrain, found the setup is way too long. Gonna have to pull the tcase to install it. Ran out of daylight for today. So close...

SVT

 

[RangerSVT]

Good work, and take it easy on that arm. My right arm and elbow have been sore and weak for about a month. My work will do it to you, and getting over it takes longer with my age.

I like how clean those manifolds look, that truck was in a good climate.

BTW, what does that non-pressure regulator do again? I didn't recall that it had a vacuum line to it.

The arm is a little better today, still tender though. The manifolds are new from rock auto. The truck actually had quite a bit of rust. The regulator, good question, I'll get back to you on that...

SVT

 

[RangerSVT]

The regulator on the fuel rail does regulate the pressure. The regulator in the tank is actually a pressure relief valve to prevent the pump from burning up. This info comes from a Ford certified master tech...

SVT

 

[N2FORD]

Looking good, sorry about your arm hope it keeps getting better. I haven't seen much rust in the work I have done to the truck. It was from Kentucky before I got it according to carfax.

 

[CDW6212R]

The regulator on the fuel rail does regulate the pressure. The regulator in the tank is actually a pressure relief valve to prevent the pump from burning up. This info comes from a Ford certified master tech...

SVT

Good, and that makes sense, because the device in the tank looks like a valve. A relief valve makes sense. The fuel rail device still looks like a regulator, so it's good to know that it is.

 

[RangerSVT]

I dont quite understand the logic of this setup. Theres no return to bleed off pressure, and the regulator is not upstream of the injectors (5 before, 3 after). The only thing I can see is that the pressure of the 3 after the regulator is regulated, but in turn reducing the pressure to those 3 injectors would relieve upstream pressure...

SVT

 

[RangerSVT]

Looking good, sorry about your arm hope it keeps getting better. I haven't seen much rust in the work I have done to the truck. It was from Kentucky before I got it according to carfax.

Its more the block, exhaust, driveshafts and rear axle thats rusted. Had trouble with just about every fastener...

SVT