Out with the old, in with the new..

[tdavis]

If the gas tank is OBDII rated, you can not remove/modify the tank legally according to the CA Smog Referee. IE, that's is why you can not run a fuel cell as CA smog legal - it's missing the smog controls.

It gets really, really tricky. In an OBDII tank, there is a pressure sensor that senses tank internal vs. external pressures; I asked if it's ok to add that to my current tank, and they said NO.

 

[410Fortune]

Tom it seems to vary depending on your referee.

Also fuel Cell companies make the parts you need to meet CA emissions laws.

 

[tdavis]

Also fuel Cell companies make the parts you need to meet CA emissions laws.

I'd like to know who these fuel cell companies are. I have found nothing about a CARB certified, OBDII compliant fuel cell.

 

[Stic-o]

If the gas tank is OBDII rated, you can not remove/modify the tank legally according to the CA Smog Referee. IE, that's is why you can not run a fuel cell as CA smog legal - it's missing the smog controls.

It gets really, really tricky. In an OBDII tank, there is a pressure sensor that senses tank internal vs. external pressures; I asked if it's ok to add that to my current tank, and they said NO.

So another words if I did change the tank, and it did not throw any codes, I'd be fine? In my case I would just not say anything and smog it as usual. no referee. How ever it would not be legal.

Tom you should have just gone diesel No smog then

 

[410Fortune]

Tom let me do some research, but this topic was on DR not too long ago, about street legal certified fuel cells in CA

 

[tdavis]

So another words if I did change the tank, and it did not throw any codes, I'd be fine? In my case I would just not say anything and smog it as usual. no referee. How ever it would not be legal.

Tom you should have just gone diesel No smog then

Stic-o, in your situation, yes. As long as you never get sent to a referee, you could probably get away with it.

As for the diesel - yea, I considered it. The engine I'd want, the VW 1.9TDI, is very expensive - in the $4k+ range.

 

[RockRanger]

Tracy's jeep is OBDII and we are using the cj7 gastank. We are also using the CJ7 gascap. Our smog guy never said anything about haveing to use the newer tank. just as long as the computer wasnt throughing any codes, passed teh visual of everything beigng there as it should, and it was clean out the pipe he was happy.

 

[tdavis]

Got the majority of my electrical needs today..

A set of 70amp relays for the cooling fan, the new radiator, 30/40 amp relays (single and dual), 10 different colors of 18ga wire with 2 more colors on the way, extra Weatherpack connectors, solder/crimp connectors, and a few other odds and ends.

I've got my crossmembers painted after several years of rusting..

I've transfered the RingR adapter to the new transmission, going to move the clutch disk and pressure plate to the new engine tonight, and possibly assemble the transmission/engine setup.

Problems I need to solve:

1) Locate new ECM (probably in same location as old)
2) Punch hole in firewall for harness (2.25" hole saw!)
3) Find radiator cap for new radiator.
4) The hoses are different sizes for new radiator vs. new engine. Got to figure out how to resize them.
5) Pull engine mounts off new engine, prototype up new engine mounts (going to use fully captured mounts)
6) Cut holes in transmission tunnel for new shifters - they need a bigger hole than the olds one.
7) Move battery around. Old location will not work with new harness.

 

[RockRanger]

Tracys upper radiator hose is made up of a few chunks of radiator hose and some 90 degree copper plumbing fittings. We could find an upper that would cleard her OBA so we made one. Maybe get a copper reducer and you could be good to go.

Also why do you need bigger holes for the shifters? You are using the same tranny and tcases. Or are they getting pushed farther back with the motor.

 

[tdavis]

The new shifters bolt in; the old shifters had a clip to hold them into the seats.

So I have cut a bigger hole, to get access to the bolts that hold the shifters in place.

 

[410Fortune]

after trying like heck to find a radiator hose that would work with my 1.5" 5.0L and 1.75" aluminum radiator, looking through hose books with Chris at Carquest, etc...I decided to try a $16 generic flexible hose.
I bought two lengths and took them both home.
After trimming 1/2" off the ends of the 16" one it fit like a glove and made the bend perfectly.

On other projects my friends have bent up coat hangers into the exact shape they needed and then headed down to G&S auto parts, a smaller ma and pa parts shop here in town. Thewy have been really good about matching up hoses.

Or you can do like Matt and use a couple different hoses and metal couplers.

 

[Brian1]

I tried that too. Went to autozone with a 'template' and they let me browse through their hoses. Couldnt find anything so I went to Napa. They had a heavy duty universal flex hose that worked for my engine transplant into the Jeep. They did have hoses with different lengths and different size inlets and outlets. Just be sure to get a counter person who knows what they are talking about.

 

[Stic-o]

That's why my new favorite site is Dead Link Removed

They have everthing on there website with meserments. how big the holes are, what thickness it is, whatever. It's been very helpful in my disc brake swap.

 

[tdavis]

Got the tcases back tonight - no more river of oil when it's on it side.

Also makes gives me lo-neutral-hi on one shifter, and front in/out on the other shifter.



Should be back together Saturday afternoon, and ready for wiring on Sunday.

 

[FROADER]

Sweet Tom!

 

[tdavis]

Got the transmission, tcases, and everything hooked back together, and stuffed into the zuk.

Still need to build engine mounts (Sunday!)

Add to the list:

1) Find the A/C delete belt. Autozone/Kragen's web site list them, but as a special order item. This also means I'll be mounting up the Puma 12v compressor I have in the back area.

2) Build a new thermostat outlet. The factory one dumps straight in to the FJ60 power steering box. I have the 1.75" tube, 5/16" plate and enough welding skills to make a new one. This will solve the radiator hose problem too - I just have to get 1.75" sized hose. The outlet is 1.5", and the stock hose is 1-3/8" - close enough that I think I can get it on there.

Other than that, it fits pretty darn good in there. I may drop the tcase down 1", to make more tunnel room.

 

[Felix]

Looks very good Tom. Is the front spring mounts and hitch area new? I dont remember them looking like that at truck haven. Then again I could be mistaken.

Was the tin bender jambo last weekend at Johnson Valley? I saw a boat load of crawlers headed out Boone Road when I was on my way to the Hare Scramble off Besmer Mine Road.

 

[tdavis]

Felix, it's probably the paint that is throwing you off. I had rebuilt the front end after having a shackle snap off at Truckhaven one day last year.. No, I wasn't happy about it.

As for where it's at today..

Got the engine mounts fab up, and installed. I had to make a new thermostat housing; the factory housing points straight at the FJ60 box, and is un-usable. I also put the front hoop back on, because I need to start the process of figuring out what goes where. I then layed the hood on it... Stood back, and realized everything fit back together! I have 1" of clearance between the engine and the hood. I have 5.5" of clearance between the oil pan and the front axle.. and I have only 4.5" of up travel in the front, so looks like I'm set!

Now, I am going to replace the front headlights with straight 55w lights, put the PIAA's 80xt's I have in as high beams, and do some re-tubing of the front to fit the new radiator properly, make a winch mount, need to finish re-wiring for the new ECM, lights, and power. I also need to get some new hoses for the power steering, the 2 liter lines are banjo fittings and the FJ60 box is flare. I also have replacement gauges for the oil, temp, and 12volts.

Things I am still waiting on to show up are the new Mastercraft Baja R/S seats, and a fan controller from http://www.dccontrol.com

 

[section525]

That thing is going to be a powerhouse! Lookin awesome!

 

[FROADER]

Sweet Tom! I really hope you're keeping the same exhaust pipes.