Searching for usable Tall Valve Covers 5.0

[CDW6212R]

Is it tight there next to the left header to cover, such that most covers might interfere?

They made so many VC's, I found some recommended by a New Zealand member who swapped a 351W into his Land Rover. He picked a FMS cover that was used on the 347 crate engine they made many years back.

I liked them because they almost look like Cleveland covers, they have a flat top section. I bought two pairs for about $150 each, but I have not considered how they may fit on my 347 or the SUV. I'll have the same oil fill issue, as they have the same round hole in the left end of each cover.

Hopefully that push in fill tube is a very snug fit into a rubber grommet. How did that fit into yours?

 

[TekMan05]

Well back when the engine was being put back together after the cam/rebuid I was on such a tight budget that I just grabbed a pair of F150 5.0 covers from a pull yard and my friend did a quick tack weld with my stock fill tube on the "driver's" instead passenger side. He got it to work but it wasn't the cleanest weld and the paint job didn't last long at all. There's a ton of Valve covers for the 5.0 but most don't really tell you how tall they are and most aren't for EFI applications. BTW, anyone know what size wrench the EGR tube nut is on the top? I still have to take that off to get the pass cover off.

 

[Turdle]

I ended up using some edelbrock tall valve covers, with 3/16" gaskets to clear my rocker arms, however, the oil fill was on the wrong side and it left a hole on the passenger side rear to deal with. I used it for the breather-pcv to air tube in place of the pcv tube going to the oil fill tube on the stock setup.

 

[CDW6212R]

The wrench for the EGR pipe is 1 1/16", on both ends. I did that EGR pipe swap about a month ago, with a Dorman part that has no flexible section.

It was almost tough to get it to line up, start the top end first and then start the bottom end, snug the top, then the bottom, then tighten the top, then the bottom.

My lower EGR pipe adapter(15/16" wrench) came out with the pipe, and I reused it. A pipe wrench is handy to have for that if the adapter comes out too.

 

[TekMan05]

I ended up using some edelbrock tall valve covers, with 3/16" gaskets to clear my rocker arms, however, the oil fill was on the wrong side and it left a hole on the passenger side rear to deal with. I used it for the breather-pcv to air tube in place of the pcv tube going to the oil fill tube on the stock setup.

You still have any pics of your engine setup from Turdle? Curious to see how you had all the hoses routed. Also how tight is the PCV supposed to sit flushed into the intake? While under the hood I was tracing hoses and noticed it popped out of the intake with relative ease? I don't know if that could be causing the oil drip under the back of the firewall area onto the ground?? With as low miles as on the rebuilt engine I wouldn't think it would be the rear seal already that was replaced.

Thanks CDW6212R, Yeah I didn't think I had the right sized wrench for it. I'll try to get one from Harbor tomorrow and tackle it this weekend at some point. Did you have a certain attack angle that worked for you at getting to it?Goal is to get the covers cleaned up and shipped to Jon next week. Thank God it's not gonna snow as I'm driving the Stang in the meantime

 

[CDW6212R]

The PCV rubber grommet should be replaced, it does harden and shrink over time. That may be your leak, hopefully all of it.

To get to the EGR fittings I did remove the air inlet hose and the alternator. I was hoping that I'd be able to get more space to get on the fittings, flip the wrench over etc. But it was still very tight in there, and I was lucky to be able to move the wrench enough to turn the fitting, and then move it to the next flat etc.

 

[Turdle]

I was not able to get pictures back there, it's tight. Heater core hoses and egr combined with the additional pcv tube back there made it difficult.

 

[TekMan05]

I finally got the top egr nut loose and got the tube removed. Wasn't able to break the bottom thread in the header loose but was able to get the cover off before I had to go to work.

 

[Turdle]

Ok, Thomas here is what I came up with.

I took the oil fill valve cover to a buddy's shop to have it welded, and then some grinding. After blasting them inside and out they looked like this

But now they look like this

Hopefully this will work for you.

 

[CDW6212R]

Great work Jon, those will look good.

 

[TekMan05]

sweeeeet. Love them, the vein look is unique and sure to look great under the hood. It's pretty crazy that I got those from a junkyard F-150.
I'll check the rockers this weekend some time to see where they're nicking the covers at. I was using the blue fel-pro rubber gaskets. Not sure how thick those are.

 

[TekMan05]

Ok, I just got home and snapped a few pics of the edge rocker arms. Outside of one I couldn't really see any significant nicking on the edges from the covers even then the one I did see it's hard to say it's from the covers?? What you guys think?? I'll look over them again when I'm not so tired lol.

 

[Turdle]

Where you need to look very close is on the 2 very end rocker arms of each bank, at the areas the arrows point to

 

[Turdle]

Oh, and order the thick valve cover gaskets. note in the description Thickness (in):0.313 in.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1645

 

[CDW6212R]

Oh, and order the thick valve cover gaskets. note in the description Thickness (in):0.313 in.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1645

You cannot make me use cork gaskets on anything if something else is available. I'd use two of the other type which have reinforcements at the bolt holes, or some rare spacers I have seen. I'm not sure where I last saw VC spacers, but they are out there(I don't know what they cost either).

 

[Turdle]

You cannot make me use cork gaskets on anything if something else is available. I'd use two of the other type which have reinforcements at the bolt holes, or some rare spacers I have seen. I'm not sure where I last saw VC spacers, but they are out there(I don't know what they cost either).

Those have the spacers at each bolt hole Don. They (spacers) are double thickness. Reviews on them are good. I would use them if it was me. He needs the extra room. They did not leak on my engine. Cork vs silicone debate rages on I guess.

each has it's benefits, but if the rockers tap on the covers it will surely leak. Stacking 2 silicone gaskets not intended for that purpose would be my second choice.

 

[CDW6212R]

It is a dilemma, but I've seen way too many cork VC gaskets oozing oil from all sides. The cork won't leak for a long long time, but it's a sure thing that they will leak. It's the principle for me, a substance that should never be used to stop oil, used as a seal. I'd use it in a pinch if I had to, but I try really hard not to be in that position.

I love the stock steel VC gaskets from the HO 302's, but those are also only about 1/8" thick.

 

[Turdle]

I wash we could pull a cork and discuss this further.

 

[TekMan05]

Putting The Explorer back together. I should of took pics because I have spent most of the afternoon trying to traces the vacuum hosing on the manifold. I have the T part off the PCV going to the hose that goes to the front nipple and another t going from the front to the double sided nipple toward the back on the driver's side? Hard to explain but I hope that will work for the time being. I still don't like how easy the PCV grommet comes out with a little tugging. I have it pressed in as much as I can so hopefully it holds for now.

 

[CDW6212R]

Replace the PCV grommet, or short term use some RTV around it if you have to.