Something w/ rabbits. 72.5 pages of BS

[IZwack]

Yes, lets not...its a little known fact that Iz does most of his fabrication work in the nude, except for steel toed shoes, gloves and eye protection of course, and no one wants to see that.

LOl funny you should say that cauz (no I dont actually do it) but I was going to say the exact same thing.

 

[94 Crawler]

LOl funny you should say that cauz (no I dont actually do it) but I was going to say the exact same thing.

Didnt need that mental picture. HaHa!!

 

[BKennedy]

LOl funny you should say that cauz (no I dont actually do it) but I was going to say the exact same thing.

SSSLLLLLLAAAAAAAAAAAAPPPPPPPPPPPP!!! Good Game!!

 

[IZwack]

Had a few hours after work today so I finished up the main rails of the boat side thingy.

Rear end of the driver's side rail viewed from the top:

Front end of the driver's side rail viewed from inside the cab:

The body will sit on the rail like so (front driver's side corner):

Boat side angle will be 27 degrees:

 

[iammattchew]

sick!

I think I interpreted you correctly, you're planning on running those tube headers to a cat on each side and then straight duals?

I want to hear what it sounds like.

Nice work!

 

[IZwack]

Sorry no duals -- there will be a merge after the cats and before the muffler to simplify tubing. Engine performance is not really a goal -- being as quiet as possible is more important in order to hear the spotter . I'm making my headers only to make way for the front driveshaft and to get it away from the skid plate.

I actually wish the engine was a V4 instead of a V6 so that its shorter and more compact, maybe even a decrease in degrees to make the engine more narrow .

 

[sn0border88]

being as quiet as possible is more important in order to hear the spotter . I'm making my headers only to make way for the front driveshaft and to get it away from the skid plate.

You... listening to a spotter?

 

[wood1]

I actually wish the engine was a V4 instead of a V6 so that its shorter and more compact, maybe even a decrease in degrees to make the engine more narrow .

How about a small turbo diesel? Drool...

 

[Tbars4]

...You could always throw a turbo 2.3L in there...

 

[IZwack]

You... listening to a spotter?

He he he -- thats true.


Made some rear link bracket at the chassis end. Inside each bracket is a 2"x2" square tubing for internal structuuuuure.

Deees iiiis how it will look like on the chassis:

Its angled out about 10 degrees. I'll burn them into the chassis once the rear links are made -- which will probably be about 38" - 39" in length (the lowers that is)

 

[IZwack]

Rear lower links:

Broke out the plasma and made some tabs, and then it was time to mock up the rear links to ensure the Rubicon Express SuperFlex was horizontal:

Welded in the chassis mount:

And this is the link angle from the bottom:

And from the top:

 

[spotter guy]

Sweetness.....

 

[IZwack]

ehehe hi Winter!

 

[Burns]

Wow IZ

Simply Awesome!


Your welds look good

 

[Rick]

What are you using to bend your plate steel??

 

[IZwack]

Most of the time I sandwhich the steel with two sets of steel clamps and whack one half of the clamp with a hammer after heating. But on that one, I just welded the center to the top and bottom plates, and then a few blows with a hammer (the steel was hot enough after welding). Then a set of clamps were used to close the gap between the ends of the plate and the other surface its going to be welded to. Yeah its crude and I feel like I belong in the stone age using that method but it worked for that I really need to build a brake but I'm a little tight on room. The bent plates are 3/16" thick so its not as difficult as 1/4" (the tabs where the link bolts to).

 

[BKennedy]

Unbefarginbelievable!!!:

 

[IZwack]

Unbefarginbelievable!!!:

Just dont lock me up ! :


I had a few hours today so I started on the doubler (because I cant mount the rear upper link w/o having the doubler and engine mounted).

Taped up the cold rolled steel plates, chose a center for the doubler's shaft's center axis, center punched it, and broke out the compass to make some circles -- 3.875", that's how far the doubler's transmissoin mounting holes are from its shaft's center axis:

(The 1354 and 1350 have the same transmission mounting holes so I just used the 1350/doubler's transmission end for alignment instead of wrestling around the assembled 1354)

Centered the doubler's transmission end (via the 3.875" circle) and clamped it down to the plate:

Since the transfer case's mounting holes are threaded, the right size pen made it easy to mark the center of each mounting hole as the pen threaded firmly into each hole:

Removed the case half and center punched each hole, then removed a little bit of tape for drilling:

Drilled the mounting holes, the center axis point, the transfer case guide pin, and two temporary alignment holes:

Das is all for now, not sure what I'll get done this weekend cauz I gotta get some stuff for work done.

 

[John_Rock]

One question???

Are you trying to steal the Crazy Asian EF Title???

Joke lang!

IZ your work is awesome. Keep it up!

 

[IZwack]

Ahaha no no.. I know my limits