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Something w/ rabbits. 72.5 pages of BS

electric water pump?
alot of rear mount radiator systems use an electric pump or two, some systems use the fatory pump along with an electric pump

Just a thought, free up some HP too
 



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The odd SOHC block gets some blockage (in case a link breaks and the axle wants to come closer to to the engine). Its moved over to the driver's side. Its hard to tell exactly how many inches its moved over because its not really symetrical and it appears to larger on the passenger's side.

engine_cage1.jpg

engine_cage2.jpg


The supports on the side are angled up towards the back because on the driver's side, the upper link will sit pretty much horizontal at ride height (for that loow loow feeling).

The tensioner is a little close but if the belt interferes with the passenger side tube, then I'll move the tensioner somewhere else. And just for kicks, the panhard bar should be sitting horizontally somewhere in front of the water pump pulley.
 

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Looks good IZ. I would route the that coolent line under the crank pully abought a half inch or so from the oil pan. Make you some L brackets and bolt it to the front pan bolts. If you use some heavy wall exhaust tubing it think it will be good.
 






Thanks 94 -- I'm going to try to investigate at a water pump for a mid 90s Mercury Cougar 4.6L tomorrow and see if I can make my own housing for it. Its a very simple water pump.

58479.jpg
 






D44 moved out of the way and positioned the D60:

d60_mocked1.jpg

d60_mocked3.jpg

d60_mocked2.jpg
 

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I may have missed the post because (And I admit) I didn't read the entire thread word for word but with the engine so far back and a doubler added on, how long is your rear drive shaft going to be? I can see it ending up like a Jeep were the front shaft is twice as long as the rear XP, Awesome build btw!
 






The rear driveshaft is going to be about 27 or so inches with the engine moved back and the doubler in place. Pic below is of a yard stick (36").

As for the front driveshaft, it is going to be a hacked up one from the rear of a Chevy S-10 Blazer extended cab with a double cardan joint. These come in two piece and I will machine the center so I can use a pillow block bearing for support (instead of the stock "carrier bearing" which doesnt work too well in off road and high torque situations).

rear_driveshaft_length.jpg
 






is that a paint tray full of brake fluid? gear lube?

Progress is sick, cant wait to see what else you come up with :)
 






You know it would been easier to go get some round and square tube, throw it on the floor and just start welding;)
 






is that a paint tray full of brake fluid? gear lube?
Yeah that pan fits perfectly inside the engine/trans cradle so it comes in handy.

Stick-o said:
You know it would been easier to go get some round and square tube, throw it on the floor and just start welding
Yeah definitely would have been. But I can't wait to see how it turns out with the Explorer skin on it (or whats left of the body).
 






You plan on doing anything about the rear driveshaft angle? or just run it like that and hope you don't bind up and or bust the u-joints?
 






The rear driveshaft angle isnt too bad. I'm switching to a double cardan U-joint with a 3-link geometry that should keep the angles within specs. Also, there will be a small winch tying the chassis to the center of the axle. This will be used not only to suck up the rear axle, but also prevent the rear axle from uncompressing too much (but still allowing it to flex).

In the image below, the driveshaft will be about the same angle as the lower links:
rear_angle.jpg


I've also removed the engine cage thing that I did a few days ago and went with a different design. It doesnt look as pretty as the previous but this should allow me to tuck the axle even closer to the chassis cauz now the upper link has a lot more room vertically. This will result on a belly high of about 23-25 inches :). I might need to switch to 14" shocks at the front (easier to mount and it wont be popping up too high should I decide to run a hood) , but we'll see.

front_redone.jpg
 

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From now on, we can only post on this thread with icons :)
 


















:crazy:
 









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