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supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

hi everyone, my name is tim . i live in selkirk, manitoba, canada and as if this date that i am posting this, i am 36 years old.

i bought my sport in jan 05 from a local ford dealer. it had 111,000KM's on it. this is the second sport i have owned. it was sitting on the lot for about 8 months before i came along. i am the third owner (i was able to track down the person that traded it in, and they got it from a friend, who bought it new in 98).

i started to do a few things to it after i first got it, then i found this site, and all hell broke lose! i've never been satisfied with something the everyone else has, so i started to tinker with it even more.

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mods include

interior

installed factory tilt, cruise, overhead console, auto dimming mirror, full length console, with a message center (it didn't have these from factory).

white face with blue flames indigo gauge covers (they light up blue)
blue l.e.d. everything
white l.e.d. interior lights
Kenwood DDX392 Touch Screen Head Unit
alpine 4 channel amp (all four speakers)
boston acoustic front and rear speakers
alpine mono amp (for sub)
2 12 inch jl audio subs
rockford fosgate cap
passenger side one touch window down mod.
custom transfer case shifter
tripple a pillar gauge pod, housing autometer boost, Innovate LC-1 wideband, and oil pressure gauge
12v power inverter with 120v plug in a 2 usb plugs built into the center console

exterior

BMW E46 projectors, mounted into stock housings using clear lens
6000K HID head lights
angel eye "driving" lights, with 8000k h.i.d.'s
clear parking/corner lights
billet grill (powder coated by Turdle)
blacked out ford emblems
custom front steel 95-98 bumper, with 4 inch round tubes welded in for driving lights
shaved radio antenna
shaved roof rack
black euro tall lights
l.e.d. license plate lights
smoked out 3rd break light
lund rear tailgate spoiler/wing (formally from the truck "blackjack" owned by EF member Spas)
hand made roll pan (made from 3 1/2 rear bumpers, with 1/4 inch diamond plate on the top, and it is removable)
aluminum T/A differential griddle/cover (powder coated by Turdle)
Motegi Mr107 20' rims
goodyear wrangler hp p245/50 r20
1 1/4 wheel spacer in the rear, 3/8 in front
and most noticeable, black with blue pearl paint, and blue true fire (ground effects are black with blue pearl as well)

Suspension

2 inch lowering blocks in the rear, reverse TT in the front (2 inch as well)
Explorer Express rear sway bar
4 door leaf springs
rancho rs9000 adjustable rear shocks
03-05 sport trac spindles with drilled and slotted rotors

performance

5L swap
347 stroker
TFS twisted wedge alum heads
comp gold 1.6 rockers
comp cams CCA-35-556-8 nitro cam
heavily modified edelbrock victor jr air gap intake (which serves as a valley pan now)
eaton m122 supercharger (metco 2.70 pulley, and ASP 8 rib 7 1/4 crank pulley) with custom made mount with bell intercooler core
8 rib serpentine belt conversion using pulleys from a 7.3 powerstroke
custom made 3 1/2 inch throttle body elbow
accufab 75mm throttle body
4 inch intake pipe
PMASS MH90 90mm Universal 3000 KG/HR MAF
amsoil cone filter
F.A.S.T. 60lb injectors
edelbrock fuel rails, trick flow specialties fuel pressure regulator with summit racing fuel pressure gauge
walbro 255lph fuel pump
1/2 inch steel braided fuel pressure line from tank to rail using 8AN fittings
torque monster headers
2 1/2 duel pipes with flowpro duel in and out 2 1/2 single muffler
accel extreme 9000 ceramic 45 degree plug wires with boot protectors
4R70W w/2600 stall with J mod
tuff stuff 200a alternator
tuning made possible with sct pro-racer package, and tuned with major help from member [MENTION=102869]Dono[/MENTION] and [MENTION=81804]4pointslow[/MENTION]
flex a lite duel 12 inch electric fans
big 3 upgrade (4 gauge wires)
meziere innercooler water pump
2 froozenboost innercooler rads

Transfer case

4406 manual shift from a 97 F150
modified stock trans cross member to accept 93 mustang 5L polyurethane tans mount
double cardan rear drive shaft

because of all the "fun" i had doing the bodywork, and some other things to my truck, i have nick named it "evil dora" or if you like, just plane "evil"!
and now the thank yous

my buddy gord leiss, who let this thing sit in his garage for 3 months while i did the body work to it. he also gave me a hand with some of the prep work, and painted it for me

kevin willson for doing the true fire http://affordableairbrushing.ca/

Joe Bukoski for letting me do the 5L/4406 swap in his garage

now people from this site, weather they knew it or not, they helped

BIG THANKS to tara a.k.a. explorersport77 for pictures of her truck. wouldn't been able to build the roll pan with out them!

ExplorerSport77's X "Hotness"

jon a.k.a. Turdle for selling me some real swanky rear shackles, as well as powder coating the diff cover and sending them up to canada. as well as much needed info on v8, and 4406 swaps as well as doing the grill and showing me how its done.

don aka dono for the help with the tuning, and wideband, as well as the supercharger

andy aka ahodges for some parts, and any help i needed for all the go faster goodies

5.0 swap - w/ 4406

jad2411 for finding me a link for my hidden antenna

ryan a.k.a. MustangP51 for doing his write up on making l.e.d.'s for interior lights, and how to make projectors

P51's HID Headlight (Projector) and Fog Conversion (PICS)

and N3ELZ cardomain page for L.E.D. switch and cruise pod mods

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/296394/2002-ford-ranger-regular-cab/page-6
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/296394/2002-ford-ranger-regular-cab/page-12
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/296394/2002-ford-ranger-regular-cab/page-23

bob a.k.a. rwenzing for showing me speedhut's sit for the gauges

Gauges, Custom Gauges, Tachometers, Speedometers, Shift Light, Pod

Buzz4x4 for his write up on blacking out ford emblems

How to Make Your Own Custom Ford Emblems

the late aldive for his write up on one touch down passengers window mod

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141027&highlight=touch+passengers+window+mod

BIG COUNTRY, for his write up on how to install a auto dimming mirror

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=84968

BIG COUNTRY, 98formulaLS1, and Ryon40 for there write ups on how to install a message center

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=225017&highlight=BIG+COUNTRY
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80670&highlight=message+center
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=245085&highlight=Ryon40

MountaineerGreen for his 4406 swap write up and "Custom" Driveshaft for a 4406 and 4" Superlift on the Cheap " (even tho its lowered

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166726&highlight=awd+4x4+swap
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=185232

Simon, aka blueka for his "pickle" thread, and help anytime i picked the phone up the phone on the 5L swap

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271813

Jon, aka 4pointslow for any MAJOR technical advice i have needed

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219092

i wish i could find who did the write up on the overhead console install, but here is the link

http://www.explorer4x4.com/overhead.htm

Russ aka NICE59FORDF100 for his help on the wiring, and what to watch out for electronically.

hopefully one day, i will be able to help people on here just as much as the people that i have mentioned above!

picture.php

plus you know you have done something right when.....

your truck (as well as corkey) wins truck of the month

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=296023

is the feature truck on the fun hump day radio show (starts roughly around the 30 min mark)

http://explorerforum.podbean.com/2011/03/23/19-vroom-zoomboom/

and you drive 26 hours ONE WAY to the carlisle all ford nationals in june 2010 and 2011, and grab second place in the s.u.v. all category!

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then in 2014 you go back to the same show you have been to 5 years in a row (nothing by most, but its one hell of a long drive) and take first!

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vroomzoomboom

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Can you try different tone rings for your harmonic balancer
no for a few reasons (possibly more)
its pinned to it, and i do not know how to take it apart.
i believe it would throw the balance off for the motor.
its a 36 -1, and they all should be the same ring size
 



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no for a few reasons (possibly more)
its pinned to it, and i do not know how to take it apart.
i believe it would throw the balance off for the motor.
its a 36 -1, and they all should be the same ring size
I only ask because I have heard of the tone ring and sensor not working together in some cases it may be something you can look into just hopped in to my head as I was I was reading
Maybe try an old balancer just to see if you can get a crank signal from it
I was just thinking that you've looked at everything on the sensor end of the deal maybe it's something with the balancer to tone ring
 






410Fortune

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following along, I wish I had more input to help but if it was my project, I would also be doing online searches about the blue lights and have tech support on the phone (Brett/Holley)
 






allmyEXes

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@vroomzoomboom @410Fortune In the Holley supplied parts I'm finding 24, 36, 58 tooth crank sensors available. How does one know which one to use?
 






vroomzoomboom

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@vroomzoomboom @410Fortune In the Holley supplied parts I'm finding 24, 36, 58 tooth crank sensors available. How does one know which one to use?

ours are a 36 -1

also the tuner, and the other person that is helping told me to get this crank trigger sensor

 






allmyEXes

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vroomzoomboom

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@vroomzoomboom Is that what the fabbed aluminum bracket holds?

im hoping it will. that bracket was made for the sensor i am replacing. i think or would have to think they are the same diameter.

i also cut the bracket down a bit last night and wanted the factory timing pointer to be able to sit on it. i will cut it down some more later today and pretty it up a bit......for nobody to ever see it....

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vroomzoomboom

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following along, I wish I had more input to help but if it was my project, I would also be doing online searches about the blue lights and have tech support on the phone (Brett/Holley)

sorry jamie, i didnt see your post. holley isnt really too helpful if its not their stuff. they wont even suggest things to try.
brett, i honestly hate asking him because i dont like to bother him.
 






vroomzoomboom

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sensor came in. set the gap on it (they call for 40-80, i put it to around 50), put it in the truck, got a hold of the tuner, and



fail




it was doing the same thing. so now i call holley because they cant hide behind "they know nothing about the sensor i am using". i also had the tuner on the line as well so they both could talk and see what was going on (should say the guy tuning is andrew). holley had asked to disable the cam sensor and give it a try. IT STARTED.......and rand for 10 seconds and not so great either then died. the holley guy figured there is a wiring issue. so after hanging up the phone, andrew and i chatted. he mentioned that when i was cranking, he saw the air intake temp going up to 200F, and map doing "funny things" after telling them they are both beside each other, he figures there is a ground problem because those sensors and a few others share the same ground, and had also said there were a few other sensors that were not making any sense.
so what happens now? good question. part of me wants to say eff it, walk away from it and shove it in storage until next year, rip all that crap out, stick the stock stuff back in. either way the holley harness has to come out and needs to be checked over.

its the last long weekend of summer, tomorrow i am headed to my sisters for our dads as well as my nieces birthday. tim feels like getting embarrassing hammered.
 






4pointslow

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Maybe the MAP and IAT and wired backwards, like each one is plugged into each other's connector?
 






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instead of removing the harness check the connections to the iac and map, check the pinout at the pcm check, for continuity?
Why did unhooking the cam sensor cause it to start?
ground issue?
running for 10 seconds is better then never starting at all, progress!!


I am getting very close to turning the key on this 07............
 






vroomzoomboom

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Maybe the MAP and IAT and wired backwards, like each one is plugged into each other's connector?
anything is possible. the connectors are the same, but the iat is a 2 pin and the map is 3 if i am not wrong.

instead of removing the harness check the connections to the iac and map, check the pinout at the pcm check, for continuity?
Why did unhooking the cam sensor cause it to start?
ground issue?
running for 10 seconds is better then never starting at all, progress!!


I am getting very close to turning the key on this 07............

it might be just as easy to remove the harness. its real tight to get to the map and iat. the ground on that circuit is shared by the fuel, coolant, iat, map, and tps.
i should have said, holley's tech asked to turn the cam sensor off in the program. i cant remember for sure why they said to turn it off to see if it would start, i think to check for signal? maybe?
the thing is for it to start and run for 10 seconds was checking for this or that. it was tricking the pcm to think everything was set right when it wasnt.
i've been waiting to see updates on the ranger.
 












vroomzoomboom

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I think cmp and ckp use the same voltage source. If one at of leads was crossed it would ground the 5 v source. Just a straw to grab

i'd have to look at the holley wire diagram. its way different then fords. some share the same things while others do not.
 






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i'd have to look at the holley wire diagram. its way different then fords. some share the same things while others do not.
Reverse, as in swap the pins on the cmp connector,
 






vroomzoomboom

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Reverse, as in swap the pins on the cmp connector,
ah, gotcha. well, tomorrow what i think i will do is try to do continuity on the grounds (for what thats worth).

btw, good to hear from ya jon!
 






4pointslow

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Make sure the battery is disconnected when doing continuity testing on your grounds,
not isolating circuits when testing with an ohmmeter will cause incorrect readings.

For example, I had a training vehicle setup for my students with an AC concern. One of the tests they did was a continuity (resistance) check of the ground that went from the compressor to the battery negative terminal on a Ranger. The wire was only about 2 feet long, if that.
With the battery still attached the resistance reading was 16 ohms with the key off. With the battery disconnected it read under 5 ohms like it should. Even though the key was off, there was still current flowing from the PCM and other devices' memory circuits (keep alive memory in PCM and Radio station/clock memory in the radio to name 2) and that causes false readings when using an ohmmeter when doing continuity testing.

Another way of testing grounds is by using the voltmeter function instead of the ohmmeter function of your digital multimeter.
Grounds usually read around .2 volts when they are good (from ground your testing to battery negative). Some use .05 as a max voltage spec on the grounds.
 






allmyEXes

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I have not done this myself. I'm following along with what Tim and Jamie and it makes me think of a couple of good questions related to the Holley Terminator X system that they are using, and I am considering purchasing. How do the ohms and function of particularly the camshaft and crankshaft sensors compare between the Ford and Chevrolet versions of the HTM systems? Or do they both use Holley parts? Also, this question is in reference to the HTM system for Fords, this system Holley TM for ford transmission 92-97. I would need this system because my transmission is a 1997 and in 1998 that transmission connector changed. So if one has a 1998 transmission, they would need a system for that year transmission.
One thing that I did not like about the Holley system and the feedback from the "smart coils" to the PCM, there were not individual sensor? wires from each coil back to the PCM that would tell you which coil was misfiring. That surprised me and was a bit of a downer that the Holley system was not "smarter" than that.
Even the old Ford OBD2 stock PCM would tell you which cylinder had a problem. Does that strike either of you guys a bit funny? I'm about to the point of getting a replacement PCM for my '97 Merc Mountaineer and get everything running again before converting it to coil near plug if the '97 Ford PCM could do such.
ADDED: Holley document
ADDED Monday 6 a.m. 9-05-22: QUESTION: What type of fuel system and type of ignition system did Holley design this for originally?
 






vroomzoomboom

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I have not done this myself. I'm following along with what Tim and Jamie and it makes me think of a couple of good questions related to the Holley Terminator X system that they are using, and I am considering purchasing. How do the ohms and function of particularly the camshaft and crankshaft sensors compare between the Ford and Chevrolet versions of the HTM systems? Or do they both use Holley parts? Also, this question is in reference to the HTM system for Fords, this system Holley TM for ford transmission 92-97. I would need this system because my transmission is a 1997 and in 1998 that transmission connector changed. So if one has a 1998 transmission, they would need a system for that year transmission.
One thing that I did not like about the Holley system and the feedback from the "smart coils" to the PCM, there were not individual sensor? wires from each coil back to the PCM that would tell you which coil was misfiring. That surprised me and was a bit of a downer that the Holley system was not "smarter" than that.
Even the old Ford OBD2 stock PCM would tell you which cylinder had a problem. Does that strike either of you guys a bit funny? I'm about to the point of getting a replacement PCM for my '97 Merc Mountaineer and get everything running again before converting it to coil near plug if the '97 Ford PCM could do such.
ADDED: Holley document
ADDED Monday 6 a.m. 9-05-22: QUESTION: What type of fuel system and type of ignition system did Holley design this for originally?

for the trans, my truck is a 98 but uses a 96 trans. there was more then just the connector that changed. the pin outs are way different, plus the vss is in the trans for 96 and 97. 98 picked it up off the abs in the rear. holley has a plug for that which just plugs into their harness and done. also the harness is different for a 98 and up trans.
the wire pinout is the same one i have wired my truck to. you have to make a change however if you want run the ford iac and use pins b20 and b3. on the diagram you posted, it is set up for the 4 wire gm iac. you can do it that way with at gm one but you would have to buy a accufab iac gm to ford adaptor Idle Air Control Adapter | 5.0L - Early & Late GM - Accufab and buy the iac.
the fuel system as far as i can tell so far, you tell it what psi you are running and thats it. im not sure if you need to tell it if its return or not.


well, i thought i had a break threw this weekend. after talking with andrew and danny i looked over a few things. i found that i crossed the power and signal wires going to the cam sync (ford sells the plug that has 3 wires coming out, all black. very helpful......not). grabbed my old harness that was in the truck and verified that they were wrong, and fixed it. i also started to look at some of the sensors that share ground on holleys pin a18. easiest one to get to was the fps. the signal wire broke away from the terminal. i figured i had it made. called andrew the tuner today to see if we can get this thing started.
nope.
i am no longer loosing rpm to the crank sensor, however it was still doing the same thing. sputtering and then die. he also told me my map sensor and the other sensors on the circuit a18 were still jumping around. i was able to reach the connector for the map to make sure it was pinned correctly. it was. i also looked at the tps, it to was correct. the air intake, and coolant sensors can be wired backwards because they are a 2 wire and wont matter.

its becoming do or die here soon. if its not running i will be forced to put it at a friends place so the mice will have a spot to live, and i really dont want that.
 



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allmyEXes

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I'm, we're pulling for you and in the long run, hope that it is something simple. If I knew that I had everything in order, I would send the HTM PCM back to Holley and have them check it out. It is not a cheap piece and not bad-mouthing Holley but over recent decades they have made attempts to corner the market as it has to with aftermarket hotrod goodies. I was amazed with all of the trade names and former hotrod businesses that they now control. Here is proof.
Holley Wiki Facts
 






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