supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

[vroomzoomboom]

took it for a lap around town last night. still is loading up on fuel when it sits idling when you go from a cold start. that will be dealt with in tuning hopefully. its also down on boost. when the blower was off the rotors looked a little beaten up. might have to replace the entire head unit. not great. however, if i do end up doing that, this one might get sent to Stiegemeier Porting Services. the wallet will tell in time. for the high idle, i smoked the motor today, and i mean i left it on for 30 or more mins. nothing. will have to look and see what the idle was set to.
also didnt think it was going to be, but that hood or for me at least is a distraction lol. guess i will have to get used to it. other then that might play with a few small things over the weekend. my tune session is on tuesday. hopefully can make some ground.

 

[ahodges]

its progress! After your tune, I'm interested to see what the boost numbers are.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

its progress! After your tune, I'm interested to see what the boost numbers are.

not sure if they will change, could be wrong (hope i'm wrong) guess we will have to see.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

today was the tune day...that didnt start off so great.
as i was waiting for marty to call, my stereo died. not a big deal, but i needed my bluetooth to hear them. then they were late with another customer. so after that, i had told them we need to take some fuel away from the cold start because it was fouling plugs bad. that was done, and a few other small things. started it up, and it was a big time difference. started driving then my laptop decided this was a good time to want to update itself (!!!).
while it was doing that, we decided to give it another go later when my laptop was done. snuck over to a buddys place for him to check the stereo for me. somehow my amp left the chat (second alpine in 2 weeks, the one in my ranger also gave up on me).
back to tuning, as i was doing the drive around, jeff had mentioned that i need to get a innercooler. i said i had one. he mentioned i need to get some fans on the rads, or see why its running high IAT's. that has bugged me for a while now. then the drive down the highway. i gun'd it a few times, then all of the sudden it got real loud! i found one of my band clamps slid back a bit opening one pipe up before the muffler (running strait pipped). after i figured out that, they both where happy with what they saw on the tune and how it is running. so now she is tuned. might head in tomorrow for sunday night cruise depending on the weather and what kind of time i have!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

while working on a truck i have here today, i hear someone knocking at my gate. i go to look and find one of my friends that was living in british columbia for the past 2 years had moved back. while he was their he bought a 16 challanger.
"well, hell now it looks like i will be going in for cruise night now!" i said to him. first one in over 2 years. i gotta say, evil ran great! no problems what so ever. this is also the furthest i have drove it in a long time (only 100kms, or 60 miles round trip, but you gotta start someplace). it was around 18C or around 65F, and i was watching my IAT's. they got up there. at one point hit 199F, but would drop when i started driving. when i came home, i saw that they were around 145F. now you would think that with it being that hot, the rads should be to. i put my hand on the lower innercooler rad, and it was cold. like outside temp cold.
this makes me scratch my head. any ideas anyone?

 

[donalds]

The temperature sensor is reading the exhaust temperature of the blower the act of compressing air creates high temps it doesn't matter what temperature the engine block is when 200 plus ° are coming out of the blower

I hope that explains it

I was having the same temperature problems as you until I got the methanol location worked out Now it never goes above 140 on the highest end Normally about 118 under boost with the meth kicking

 

[410Fortune]

I Am super Glad you are driving it and she Is running and working well!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

The temperature sensor is reading the exhaust temperature of the blower the act of compressing air creates high temps it doesn't matter what temperature the engine block is when 200 plus ° are coming out of the blower

I hope that explains it

I was having the same temperature problems as you until I got the methanol location worked out Now it never goes above 140 on the highest end Normally about 118 under boost with the meth kicking

i totally get your explanation, and yes the sensor is under the blower.....kinda. the innercooler is below the blower, then then the sensor. thats what i dont get (unless i missed something you explained). it should be reading the temperate after the innercooler.
i had also asked the tuners if i should put a meth kit in, and where however they both said i need to sort this problem out first which i also understand. the meth kit wont kick on unless im on the throttle and wont help for regular driving.

I Am super Glad you are driving it and she Is running and working well!

you have no idea lol! it feels strange driving it because its been so long. i do have bugs to work out, but as of this moment, they are not serious ones that will keep me from driving it. reverse lights, and getting the ac to work will be the first ones. then cleaning up the harnesses will be after that.
have a friend here that did a terminator x i will say 5 or more years back in a ranger. when he saw it last night he was baffled that i no longer had the ford ecm in it because he thought you needed it, and still ran his. he is now going to rip his out so he can clean up his wiring as well.

 

[donalds]

Sounds like the inner cooler pump isn't pumping fast enough to move the fluid around
Maybe time for a fan

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Sounds like the inner cooler pump isn't pumping fast enough to move the fluid around
Maybe time for a fan

lucky for me i have a new spare! wish i could find out how many gmps it is or isnt pumping.

 

[410Fortune]

Hahahaha what functions would the factory pcm Still Perform?? Probably thought it was needed for the starter and pats… crazy. Rip that pos out of there!

 

[Turdle]

Killer Chiller Supercharger Cooler – Prevent Power Loss & Heat Soak | Authorized Beefcake Racing

Stop supercharger and turbo power loss with the Killer Chiller refrigerated heat exchanger. Universal or direct-fit kits for Ford, GM, Dodge. Authorized dealer Beefcake Racing. Call 1‑855‑827‑7223.

www.beefcakeracing.com

Thermo electric plates for chilling air charge.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Killer Chiller Supercharger Cooler – Prevent Power Loss & Heat Soak | Authorized Beefcake Racing

Stop supercharger and turbo power loss with the Killer Chiller refrigerated heat exchanger. Universal or direct-fit kits for Ford, GM, Dodge. Authorized dealer Beefcake Racing. Call 1‑855‑827‑7223.

www.beefcakeracing.com

Thermo electric plates for chilling air charge.

i saw that kit years back. my big problem is i am running out of room to put stuff.

 

[410Fortune]

Insert bfh and sawzall emojis maybe torch emoji too
lol

 

[Dono]

Just what exactly are your IAT's at the end of a wot pull?
Can you remember at all what they were before the intercooler was added?

That intercooler brick should be reaonably efficient. It's not a crappy knock off.
I wonder whats wrong.
Pump? - possibly
design issue? -doubtful. You and the guy that made the brick fit undersand how air flows pretty well.
IAT location issue? maybe.

Somethings up. No idea what though.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Just what exactly are your IAT's at the end of a wot pull?
Can you remember at all what they were before the intercooler was added?

That intercooler brick should be reaonably efficient. It's not a crappy knock off.
I wonder whats wrong.
Pump? - possibly
design issue? -doubtful. You and the guy that made the brick fit undersand how air flows pretty well.
IAT location issue? maybe.

Somethings up. No idea what though.

after a wot, around 150ish i believe. i couldnt see what they were before with the old m112, or when i first put the m122 on. you would actually know better then me lol.
pump, maybe. it was used after all and i dont remember how many hours were on it. not sure if its weak or not.
design, anything is possible. i called the guy who welded the innercooler in, he said is was a small cooler (i didnt think it was). i had also mentioned to him bell rates it to upwards of 600-700 hp, and i dont think i am there.
IAT, i am now going to rule that one out. with the cowl hood, and the location of that sensor, any hot air can escape now, or so i think at least.
when your old pump died on you don, what did it do. just stop working, or you knew it was time to get it rebuilt. i might try swapping in the new pump i have and see what it does.

 

[Dono]

after a wot, around 150ish i believe. i couldnt see what they were before with the old m112, or when i first put the m122 on. you would actually know better then me lol.
pump, maybe. it was used after all and i dont remember how many hours were on it. not sure if its weak or not.
design, anything is possible. i called the guy who welded the innercooler in, he said is was a small cooler (i didnt think it was). i had also mentioned to him bell rates it to upwards of 600-700 hp, and i dont think i am there.
IAT, i am now going to rule that one out. with the cowl hood, and the location of that sensor, any hot air can escape now, or so i think at least.
when your old pump died on you don, what did it do. just stop working, or you knew it was time to get it rebuilt. i might try swapping in the new pump i have and see what it does.

150 at the end of a wot run isn't bad at all. Lower is obviously better.
When my pump failed, it became very noisy. It was also for me to open a cap and visually see the flow.
On our positive displacement blowers, they recycle the heated air at low rpms which just keeps heating the already heated air. Not ideal. Yours are still high at idle though.
I had to do a laptop change, so I don't think I have any of your old logs. I'll look for them when I get back home this weekend.

Hows the loading up with fuel and fouling the plugs at idle? Honestly that one had me worried.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

150 at the end of a wot run isn't bad at all. Lower is obviously better.
When my pump failed, it became very noisy. It was also for me to open a cap and visually see the flow.
On our positive displacement blowers, they recycle the heated air at low rpms which just keeps heating the already heated air. Not ideal. Yours are still high at idle though.
I had to do a laptop change, so I don't think I have any of your old logs. I'll look for them when I get back home this weekend.

Hows the loading up with fuel and fouling the plugs at idle? Honestly that one had me worried.

well the pump i have now was noisy right from day one. i know if i open the cap for the innercooler, it will spray all over the place.
i might have some old logs on my laptop, but i dont know how far back they go.
they corrected the fouling on the last session of tuning. i asked them to take fuel away from the cold start, which they did. i could notice a big difference right when i tuned the key. way happier now!

 

[Dono]

well the pump i have now was noisy right from day one.

Maybe you can have a listen to my pump at some point (I think we have the same pump WP136 ?) Electric Pump Remote, 20 GPM Inline, Single in-single out

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Maybe you can have a listen to my pump at some point (I think we have the same pump WP136 ?) Electric Pump Remote, 20 GPM Inline, Single in-single out

thats what the new one is. not sure how busy you are on fathers day, maybe ill drop by when i go to the parental units.

i did however run into a problem with the pumps, because nothing comes easy.

new pump.

pump thats in the truck.

the inlet and outlet are in different spots. looks like i will have to either get creative with my hoses, or outright redo them which i really dont want to do.