supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

[donalds]

But the hood looks so good though!

I'd be keeping it

 

[vroomzoomboom]

But the hood looks so good though!

I'd be keeping it

but it doesnt have flames! lol. not to slam the place that built it, but its not me. i have said to a few people here that i know im not really that fond of it. i find it more of a distraction.

going back to the other thing, where is your sensor mounted? can you get a picture easily of it?

 

[donalds]

Which sensor

The intake temperature sensor is mounted directly under the blower exhaust in my lower plenum
I'm gonna try and find a picture

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Which sensor

The intake temperature sensor is mounted directly under the blower exhaust in my lower plenum
I'm gonna try and find a picture

if you dont find one, not the end of the world. i can imagine it as long as i know where it is. what are you getting for temps (if you didnt post it already) and how much did you temps drop after adding the airbox. i assume this to is also using the sensor under the blower?

 

[donalds]

if you dont find one, not the end of the world. i can imagine it as long as i know where it is. what are you getting for temps (if you didnt post it already) and how much did you temps drop after adding the airbox. i assume this to is also using the sensor under the blower?

Pictures are above my temps going down the road are 118-120f When the meth kicks in it drops Down to 90f or so
Parked 140 Fahrenheit

 

[Rick]

well then. looks like with this info i am going to be trying to build some type of air box. it also looks like i just spent a ton of money on a hood i dont need........

I had assumed you went with that hood for extra clearance.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

I had assumed you went with that hood for extra clearance.

no sir lol. when i made both the m112, and m122 mounts, i made for 100% sure they would tuck under the hood (the m112 i was literally scratching for 1/8ths of a inch). that way it was even more of a sleeper. just ask anyone that decided to line up at a traffic light lol.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

once again......evil is living up to it's name.
i will add, this did this once to me last fall when tuning had began and i just blamed it on just that. tuning. well.....

went for just a little drive around because it cooled off, and once again wanted to know just how back the iat's were. going down the highway, not doing anything dumb, out of nowhere the motor starts to freewheel. glance over at the screen and its telling me the trans is being commanded to 4th gear. when this happen the last time, i was on it, and it didnt go into third. i pulled over, shut the truck off, looked at the level, it was fine, didnt smell burnt. started it up, it acted like normal and i dont think it did it again. i also remember it having zero hesitation going from any gear into reverse (instead of a small pause, then going in if you understand what i am saying).
when this happen tonight, i pulled over, shut it off for a couple of seconds, fired it up, started driving away. once into 2nd gear letting off around 2500-3000k it would freewheel again. if it reached a certain speed, it would go back into gear and stay in second even though it was being commanded to 4th. pulled over, shut it off, same thing again. got home pulled the stick, fluid was up, looked ok as well. will have to recheck tomorrow. best case, buy a new filter, and change the fluid. worse, doing a trans pull which is awsome timing as i am starting a pile of house reno's so i will have tones of time to deal with that, not! also have a spare trans from dono's truck still but, from 92-97 (evils trans is a 96 from first stroker truck i bought) you can use one harness from holley, however dono's trans is a 2000, which means i would have to buy a different harness and have to do a bunch of wire changes.....

joy

 

[4pointslow]

Is there a way to determine that it is a hardware problem and not the tune?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Is there a way to determine that it is a hardware problem and not the tune?

that i dont know. at one point when i was driving it did shift to the gear it was suppose to be in, then freewheeled and started all over. after i posted last night, i started thinking i should check the harnesses going into the trans to make sure they are all good. i know way back when, when i first put this trans in, it was the one that wouldnt allow the converter to pull back into the trans and cost me a thrust bearing and other damage to a motor that only had 400kms on it. when it was opened up, my trans guy said it looked like it had 300,000kms on it, and not 45,000. there was so much wear on it lots had to be replaced. i am going to try to call my trans guy on monday and see what he figures.

 

[Turdle]

That's what it feels like when the torque converter lets go.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

That's what it feels like when the torque converter lets go.

i dont want to say no, but i would have to think you wouldnt get any movement at all? ive ripped the splines out of a converter where the input shaft goes into once when i had my capri with a c4 in it (trans guy had never seen that happen before) and it coasted to a stop (i won the race however lol)
i just took it for a drive now hoping it would self heal. you know the saying, hope in one hand, **** in the other and see which one gets filled first.
before i started it, checked the fuild. on the stick it was where it was suppose to be when cold, started it, ran for a min or two, still where it was suppose to be. put it reverse, no problem. put it in drive, it would take off but a little sluggish. monitor said it went from first, to second, to third, i however didnt feel that. came to a stop, looked at the monitor, it went down all the gears, then stopped at first. when i took off, i left it in first, the monitor was showing first, and would no move no matter speed or rpm. manually shifted to second, monitor once again, showed that i had shifted to second, but no difference in rpm.
so it appears to be locked into second. i have park and reverse as well. fluid is at the level it should be, is nice and red, and doesn't smell burnt or look burnt. my guess is some crap floated loose, jammed the valve body, or the shift servo decided to leave the chat. will know more tomorrow if i can get a hold of my trans guy. hopefully a easy fix. just started to get used to driving it after not being able after 2 years.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

so i may have found the smoking gun......kinda.

i called my trans guy this morning. he figured it was electrical or electric related, and nothing internal for the trans (which made me happy). ive known the guy for 40 years, he has had his own one man shop for god knows how long, and smart as hell. he figured the trans was not getting power and i needed to check the connector on the passengers side.

when i started checking, i did it with just the ignition on, not running. i had around 12v on pin 3, and 4.6 on pin 5 and nothing else. started it, i then had 13.8v on pins 2, 3, 4, 7 and 4.6v on pin 5. so i let it run for a few mins, shut it off. then hung up with him. i figured i would record what i did, so once again, i turned the ignition on, and rechecked everything. this is when things went weird. pins 2, 3, 4, and 7 now read 2v while pin 5 was 4.6v. i started it, and nothing changed. still 2v when it should be at battery power. gave him a call back and told him what i found. he thinks it might be in the holley ecm, but cant say for sure because he isnt too familiar with them. shut it down once again, and walked away. came back a hour later with ignition on, engine off, pins 2, 3, 4, 7 all around 2 volts, while the display was reading around 12.5. started it up, now getting 13.8v both on the display and connector.
i am going to say that the trans was not getting power when all this happen, but the problem is why. dont want to call holleys help line because the service is horrible, so i will have to start asking in a few holley forums and facebook groups.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

yesterday i had called holley and explained the problem. the guy said in his own words "this sounds like a wire harness problem, and seeing how they are made, i wouldnt doubt it" the wire(s) that provide power to the plug come out of the ecm from the b4 prong (black with a red stripe) that is in the j4 connector. that one wire then splits off into three wires (that arent black with a red stripe but just red and they dont say that on their pinout either ) that go to the c180 trans connector) i did manage to get a video of what its doing, but i dont know how to get it from my phone to the forum. anyway, test it the first time, sure enough, 3ish volts. then try again, 12v. figure i would test continuity. it passes. i figure i would unplug the harness from the ecu and see what it does on the b4 pin.....3v when it should be 12v. awesome. i hope i dont have a smoked ecu. i would just jump power from another 12v switched source, but i dont think, or know if this holley ecm would like that or not. that and it worries me to think what else may be wrong with this thing and i dont know. looks like a waist another hour or so calling holleys tech line.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

called holley again. they suggested to put a relay in with the wire that powers the ecm (there is a second wire besides the battery wire). tested it once more, drops to 3 volts when the fan kicks in. i got frustrated, and just put it back together. i also decided to take it for a fast spin around the block just to see.

it went through all the gears....

i didnt do anything but unplug the harness from the ecm to the trans.

i hate this truck some days.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

going back to the same problem. i figured i had it beat once again, but.....i had called holley again and explained things to them once again. i had told them i had switched power going to the PATS plug that is no longer needed. they suggested to try a different 12v switched clean power source, like right from the ignition. i also asked 410fortune where he put his for the ranger build he has done, and said the same thing. had a friend look it up on mitchel on demand and found the wire (the colors arent on the top of my head at the moment). verified it with a volt meter. moved the wire, no problems. well.....had the truck idling in the back yard setting the stereo for about 45 mins. was going to go for a quick drive when i pulled out of the driveway and once again stuck in second. pulled back into the driveway, shut the truck off, pulled the main power cable out of the ecm, plugged it back in, no change. did this 3 times until i parked it, and walked away.
not a happy person.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

today i gave up trying to figure out why, and said eff it. i put a relay in on the power wire going to the trans. started it up, seemed fine. went for a ride to home chepo, also seemed fine. went home, seemed fine. will see if that fixed it or not down the road. want to get a few other things working or finished on it before winter.
yes, i said it. winter. it can snow at any given day up here sometimes.

 

[Dono]

Fingers crossed about pulling the power right from a nice clean source.

I don't want to talk about snow. I feel like we're finally getting some summer. August is usually our best month (obviously the Forrest fires are becoming an issue up here, so 'best' is a matter of perspective).

It's awesome that evil is back on the road. You will obviously work thru the current issue.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Fingers crossed about pulling the power right from a nice clean source.

I don't want to talk about snow. I feel like we're finally getting some summer. August is usually our best month (obviously the Forrest fires are becoming an issue up here, so 'best' is a matter of perspective).

It's awesome that evil is back on the road. You will obviously work thru the current issue.

was going to stop in on my way home, but figured you guys were having supper or something like that

 

[410Fortune]

Very interesting! Definitely need a good source for the Holley pcm power….directly to ignition switch. That little pats power wire is tiny and only powered a tiny little module from a 15 amp fuse. Holley pcm needs at least 30 amp and much larger wire. Hopefully that fixes things

Changing from a 96/97 4r to a 98-01 4r wiring at that big White Bulkhead plug is not terrible… the changes can be made in the truck, especially with all the length the Holley trans harness gives you. Basically 96/97 had 3 power wires entering the trans, in 98-01 they reduced it to one power wire and then it splits three ways inside the trans… otherwise same same