swapping 1998 V8/4R70W/4406 into 1999 SOHC 2wd | Page 10 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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swapping 1998 V8/4R70W/4406 into 1999 SOHC 2wd

So the one that I had put on was bought off amazon. I pulled the one of the old SOHC, and neither other them ohm out like the original. I drilled the rivets out of the original metal one, and while I don't understand how its supposed to work, there appears to be no way for exhaust to flow thru it. It's got something of a diaphram inside that appears to be solid and doesn't flex. I'm gonna spend some time now trying to figure out it's supposed to work.
 



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Yes in fact the aluminum ones get plugged up easily, the plastic ones do not. The 5.0 used the plastic ones 98+ I believe. Anytime we get a metal one we replace it with plastic, usually I get the plastic ones off the bad v6 engines
 






Yes in fact the aluminum ones get plugged up easily, the plastic ones do not. The 5.0 used the plastic ones 98+ I believe. Anytime we get a metal one we replace it with plastic, usually I get the plastic ones off the bad v6 engines
I'll stick the one from my SOHC on it and go. Looks like I got a cheap one that doesn't test right.

On a related note, based on what I just read from a motorcraft webpage, I may go back and put EGR stuff on my Bronco.. The page said this sensor is what operates the EGR valve to improve your efficiency. My bronco isn't very "efficient" lol, especially with it's big FLAT nearly VERTICAL windshield. And last night I filled up the explorer and the mileage was like 14.8mpg. Not great. I was hoping for 16. Maybe after I nail down this DPFE issue it'll come way up?
 






It’s a differential pressure sensor. Nothing flows through it—it simply compares pressure between the two ports.
 






With an egr code your mileage will suffer for sure
 






Well, I slid the spartan in there. Sat down here to brag about it and realized I didn’t machine thecsplines to accept the keepers on the shafts. 🤦🏼‍♂️. So I guess it’ll come back out. They say practice make perfect. #spartanlocker

IMG_5930.jpeg


IMG_5931.jpeg
 






So you have to machine the axle shaft so the c clips will fit with the locker?
 






NO. The splined pieces of the lunchbox don't have the depth in the splines that the spider gears do. So the C clips stick all the way out of the axle parts of the lunchbox. Theres a ring that goes inside the "drive gear" that allows the C clip to expand and lock the axle in. It works very easily.

Just be warned, i've read a lot about lockers helping to destroy CV joints. But I don't plan on beating on mine. It's just there in case I need 4WD. You know, for the mall crawling and such!
 






Well, the front diff is installed, axle shafts in place.

Still have have the P0401 code after replacing the DPFE sensor. I'm going to change the EGR valve next.

Also, still dealing with the vibration. The roar I've been talkin about is kinda like going down the road and someone pulls up beside you with their boom box going. That bass that you don't care to hear is there and drives me crazy. I found the shop that shortened the rear shaft didn't line up the ends of the shaft. That's an opportunity for vibration, although I wouldn't expect much because the shaft has very little angle on either end. So I'm thinking about cutting the end off and fixing it myself since I obviously can't expect the best shop we have in town to do the job right.

I still need to mount the T case shifter and install the front shaft.
 






I managed to swap the bushing and seal in the rear output of the T case. Now theres NO slop in the yoke. Looking forward to driving it tomorrow afternoon to see if the vibration/noise is gone.

I also put a hand vacuum pump on the egr valve and I can hear the diaphragm pulling, but I can't tell if it's actually opening. It's gonna be a hassle to pull it off just to check it, but I guess that's my next move to solve the P0401 code.
 






This morning I went out and took the EGR valve off to check it out. Found one of the DPFE hoses OFF the egr tube. Fixed it. Hope this clears the code up. I'm ready for my MPGs to come WAY up. Looks like it's getting around 12mpg. I knew it would take a hit over the 18 the 4.0 was getting, but...????!!!!
 






If the egr hose isn't snug, exhaust back pressure will pop it off again.
If it happens, use some sandpaper on the metal tube fitting to deglaze it, cut about 1/2 " off the hose end, and use a zip tie to snug it down.
 






They didn’t keep the driveshaft in phase/aligned?? Vibration city

Keep up the good work!
Always bugs to work out with conversions
 






They didn’t keep the driveshaft in phase/aligned?? Vibration city

Keep up the good work!
Always bugs to work out with conversions
I pulled it back out a third time (to swap the bushing and seal) and found it wasn't THAT much out of alignment. After seeing how much slop was taken out with the new bushing, I think it'll be ok. I HOPE.
 






It’s either in phase or not, there is no middle ground. The two halves should be marked before any mods made especially if they do not balance the shaft afterwards
 






It’s either in phase or not, there is no middle ground. The two halves should be marked before any mods made especially if they do not balance the shaft afterwards
If there's still noticeable ANYTHING today, I'll take it back to them next week to fix.
 






So I ended up buying a shaft from an expedition off eBay. It did away with MOST of the roar and I really can’t feel any vibration anymore. But I’ve also got another problem. I’m not sure if it’s really a blown head gasket, but I can’t explain how the fluid turns yellow without exhaust gas in the system.

 






Harbor freight sells a tester kit for testing compression in the cooling system.
 






Harbor freight sells a tester kit for testing compression in the cooling system.
That’s what this device does. Bought at Oreilly Auto.
 



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Is it just burping stuck air? How much have you driven it enough to get all the air out of cooling system?
 






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