The Black Hole

[CDW6212R]

I've leaned towards either the SD Ford pads, or EBC green, or the Powerstop pads like you linked to. I have those on now, and have a little more squeaking than the HD Ford pads. Ford has more than one for the 2nd gen, this SD pad I found on Amazon a couple of years ago, and they performed very well in my extreme usage.

So I suggest that pad, about $58 last I checked, and a good slotted rotor by a good brand. You can get SS lines, but be sure they are a top brand, they should be direct replacements and not cost over about $20-25 each.

Here's the cryo rotor I put on my 99 years ago, these are 12" for the 01 Sport Trac spindles.

You need the best you can get for the much heavier wheels, and towing. there isn't much else to do beyond custom stuff, and that's really expensive.

 

[CDW6212R]

Here's the link to the severe duty Ford pads;
Motorcraft BRSD652 Front Severe Duty Pad
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EQ8XI...olid=32X1ZA2MRI77P&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Click to the link on the right of the page, to buy them from Auto Parts Wholesale, if it saves state sales taxes.

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks for the feedback guys!

I have heard of the slotted rotors being a bit controversial for off road, but nothing saying they can't or shouldn't be used. I am thinking of heat build up, and these are what people say to use for that reason. It stands to reason that any surface area not being scrubbed by the pad would rust over eventually, just like my stock rotors do. That's normal ain't it?

I have to use the stock caliper /rotor size to fit the new 15" wheels I believe, so modifying to larger isn't an option. I am also not rich, so I guess "Best" is relative to budget. Which isn't a lot! lol

Per the norm, Amazon doesn't give specs for ****. What's those Ford Severe pads made of, and how would they compare to the Powerstop pads? If they are the same, I would just use the pads included in the kit, until they need replaced down the road.

 

[boominXplorer]

I'd consider the sport brake swap. Only difference is the spindles. If you have 5/8" clearance currently from caliper to wheel they will fit.

3rd gen rear calipers and pads are another bolt in upgrade.

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks for the measure in the gap. I have thought about those spindles In the past, and have heard you need to shave some calipers to fit. That application seems for street use only to me. Having no real gap between the caliper and wheel does concern me tho. I imagine a rock being lodged in there easily on a trail. Is that a legit concern, or not something that would need worried about?

 

[traveler]

I've used drilled and slotted for quite a while. Havent had any problems at all, other than wearing out pads slightly faster. They are good for towing, and haven't had any problems with them off road.

 

[CDW6212R]

The larger 12" takes away 1/2" of clearance more than the 11" rotors. Not many 15" wheels will fit but it's very close. If you can measure what clearance you have now, than you can decide if it will be enough. You want plenty of clearance, but say 1/8" might be a good goal to have at least.

The SD Ford pads are the best I've tried so far, the EBC Green has been my go to until I tried the Ford pads. I'd say the performance is similar for the three I mentioned, I don't know yet how long the Powerstop pads will last and compare yet. I'd lean to the Ford pad if you have a choice.

Any good brand rotor can do fine, don't spend hundreds on rotors unless they are very very special. Only cryogenic rotors to me justify any big money. Everything else should be $50 per rotor or not a great amount more. A slotted rotor can be helpful, but it is minor, so only buy them if the price increase is relatively minor. I've bought three Motorcraft rotors for both the front and back this past Summer, all six from Rock Auto. I keep spares.

 

[boominXplorer]

I know a 15x10 steel wheel with 3.25 backspace will clear sport front brakes. If you have a decent offset wheel most of your caliper will not inside the wheel.

I have duralast max rotors and pads on my truck from AutoZone. They are a quality standard rotor with zinc coating. They also have a near no questions asked warranty.

 

[gmanpaint]

This rig has maybe 10k on it since bought. Even tho I have changed the brakes on it a few times, it has yet to wear a set of pads for me. It's a hobby/recreational vehicle, so life span of pads isn't a factor really. Granted, once this is done and ready for use, that should change, but it will still be low mileage per year, regardless.

So I am more after a good working pad that won't overheat, glaze over, and catch on fire. For those that have drove on I-70 in CO, heading west to UT, pulling a trailer, you would understand the immense braking concerns. Steep grades for 7-10 miles at a time, dropping you from 11k to 6k, and back up just to do it again, for 3-4 hours. The grade is so steep, you can't rely on engine braking completely, and have to use the brakes to assist. I watched others brakes catch fire and they wasn't even towing, (just dumb *****). It will be the same on the trails at time, just at a lower speed, but the mass is still there.

Would kinda suck if the brakes burned up on the way to the trails, and had to use a hwy runaway ramp, that costs $5k to rebuild. Or the trailer pushed the rig of a cliff edge, or couldn't slow for a hairy turn, and forced them out of it's lane. Plenty of doom & gloom scenarios that can play out, but you get the jest of it.

These wheels have 3.75" BS. The sport spindles and larger rotors are a great upgrade, but just not a good option for me.
Just spent the kids tuition $$ on a matching set of 8 wheels & 8-35" tires for this rig and the trailer. That's not changing for 1" more rotor.
Also, I do not like the small gap between the wheel & caliper. Mud with rocks, moving water with rocks, snow pack with rocks, flying rocks on high speed pebble trails, can all get rocks in the wheels and jammed. Steel wheels, I wouldn't be as cautious, but these are aluminum. Rather play it safe here with this one.

Appreciate the suggestion guys, please keep them coming.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

andy (ahodges) has some info on his build thread starting on page 18 5.0 swap - w/ 4406
as well as My Baer (Alcon) brake install. depending on how much work you want to do

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks Tim.

I seen Eric's brakes first hand in the past. They we're pretty slick, but they didn't stop him in time to avoid the roll over. (j/k)

Both of those setups involve a bigger wheel with the 12" rotor, so deal breaker. Not to mention the costs are out of my range by a landslide.

It's looking like the powerstop kit is looking more like what I will end up with. The pads will be a testing ordeal, and replaced if needed. Thanks to you guys, I have options I didn't know about before. I might even mix & match the powerstop parts, and use a solid rotor. Still plenty of time to think this out.

Now, for 4 new SS braided soft lines. I tried in the past to get a set, and that company took my $$ and vanished for 3 months. I had to file a claim on them to get it returned. I haven't tried again since. Fronts can be stock lengths, as I lowered the hard line connection points. Rears need to be at least 10" longer than stock, well the drivers side does, pass side can remain stock length.

 

[gmanpaint]

After a long bad weather Winter, and the first real nice day of spring today, the BH took a 40 mile trip on the interstate at a steady 60ish mph. I wanted to see how much a difference having the OD back working made. I was pleasantly surprised.

It held that 20 MPG AVG after a few miles of travel. It just kept climbing and climbing. After I took that pic, it rose to 20.5 for the last couple miles. I can live with that! What it gets towing 2000 lbs of trailer will most likely cut that down quite a bit, but hopefully not in half. lol

In case your wondering... I put tape over the switches, as the led light is way too bright on them at night. I am looking for some caps to slip on, like a small vac tube cap (like on the CAD switch), but something that isn't solid black, but dark transparent to reduce the light output. Probably aren't a thing, but I can hope.

 

[WormsExplorer]

That is very good. I like how that looks also.

 

[Dono]

I'm super excited that you are driving the beast!

 

[traveler]

I know what ya mean about those little switch lights. I only have one and it lights up the cabin. Had to cover it with tape. I tried everything to just make it dim, even fingernail polish.

 

[gmanpaint]

It was nice to take it out for spin. Those new shocks, coils, and tires, makes it amazing. It handles and rides better than the DD. Lol

I actually thought of painting over those lights. These are purple so a black might work. Dunno.

 

[KurtECV]

Most local auto part stores sell little semi- transparent caps for switches like that. Usually they come with an assortment of colors.

My 02 Chevy (5.3) get about 18ish mpg but when I tow something it gets about 10

 

[Turdle]

Heat shrink end caps? Maybe with a tiny pinhole to allow a small amount of light to shine down on the labeling?

 

[boominXplorer]

I'd dab some Rust-Oleum black over the light. I'm sure some will still shine through.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

would a line resister on the wire that powers the light work?