The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

Did a driveway alignment myself this morning. I got the toe set to match both front & rear of the tires, and the steering wheel perfectly straight. The camber is set on the positive side around 2* until it goes back to the alignment shop.

Ordered the rack & pinion bushings, some HD outer tie rod ends, and the HD LBJ's. That should do it for the winter....LOL !!

Edit: Everything but the Lower Ball Joints have arrived. Hopefully by Fri, they arrive so I can attack & install everything this weekend.

The pro grade steering rack bushings are monsters! Still need to find out if they can be replaced one side at a time, or if the rack has to be lifted up completely to do this.

 

[gmanpaint]

Was able to install the rack & pinion bushings today.

Not that bad of a job actually. All that was needed to be done was, unbolt the pump cooler & push aside. Remove both studs that hold the rack to the cross member. Lift the rack gently with a prybar, and use a flathead screwdriver to remove the old bushings. Slip the new bushings in & tap them in the rack as far as possible. Re-install the studs, tighten them with the nuts, and the bushings get pressed in all the way.

The HD LBJ's arrived as the sun was setting, so I will attempt to install those plus the new HD tie rod ends tomorrow.

 

[inh]

I just did the inner tie rod on mine and I see no way to get the boot back on the rack and secured properly without dropping the entire thing...

 

[gmanpaint]

I just did the inner tie rod on mine and I see no way to get the boot back on the rack and secured properly without dropping the entire thing...

Long set of needle nose and a good size zip tie works perfect. Just have the wheel turned to lock to the side your working on.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yup, its that time.

Another weekend installment of the absolutely fantastic voyages of the craptastic pile of steel known as The Black Hole.



Stardate: 11.28.10

As the hero of the show was installing the new HD lower BJ's, he discovered that meteor **** must have slammed head on with neutrino size particle waves of destruction.

The starboard side Knuckle was frozen on (must be from the ultra cold in space) to the ball joint itself. So a photon beam was energized to heat up this sinister menace and then an intervention from none other than Maury Povich, was called in to separate them. After many tries, sweet success was accomplished. Thanks Maury, I owe ya one!

The deed was thought to be done, then BAM! More carnage was discovered! The gamma rays must have been incredible! The Hub wheel bearing apparatus was destroyed! A sub space message was broadcast and received by a fellow member of the Andromeda galaxy EF clan. A high ranking officer expressed delivered, (warp 9) a Timkin replacement part.

After the Timkin being was tamed, A new HD tie fighter end was installed with the help of Dr. Who's sonic screwdriver, (man that things kicks Romulan ass!). The starboard side was back to tip top shape and functioning on all levels, it was time to attack the Senior Port side. A time sucking vortex was wreacking havic in this sector, so there was only enough time to install a HD Tie fighter end.

At the next available space station, we will dock for final repairs of the Port side LBJ.

Till next time, keep your eyes in the sky, your hands off the preachers daughter, make sure to write home, tip your bartender, and kiss the wife. This is the Captain of the vessel.....

The Black Hole

 

[gmanpaint]

Drivers side lower ball joint installed.

Now to get an appointment with the old school alignment shop for next week. It's been way too long since this thing has had any use. Time for some breaking in at my favorite off road park!

WOOT!

 

[SuRrEaLNJ]

those cables are pretty pimp, ive seen em on other vehicles, but i dont think ive ever seen em on an ex

 

[gmanpaint]

those cables are pretty pimp, ive seen em on other vehicles, but i dont think ive ever seen em on an ex

Thanks. I tend to think they look pretty redneck though

I'm expecting to see someones laundry hanging on em someday....lol

 

[SuRrEaLNJ]

well then redneck is good sometimes

 

[gmanpaint]

Is camber & toe the only things to dial in for the alignment on this rig? Does caster play a part in the IFS alignment? If so, whats a good spec for this?

Guess I am a little confused on caster for the IFS. Since the lower control arms are fixed, only the uppers are adjusted, and since the knuckle pivots on the LCA, (via LBJ) only the UCA/inner tie rods matters for alignment. With that said,....When setting camber on the Upper control arms using the camber eccentric washers, they push away on the box walls to force the arm in or out. If one side is set farther in/out then the other, it makes the arms at an angle, is that considered caster/camber?

Thanks in advance for any input here, as I am bringing the rig in later this week for the alignment. I want to be armed with as much info as I can get before I go in. I need to get this done right the first time, not many, many return trips screwing around with it as in the past.

 

[CDW6212R]

Caster is the angle between the ball joints(line to ground) as you look at it from the side. You want the UBJ rearward compared to the LBJ, that's positive caster. The movement of the UCA washers moves(pivots) the UBJ forward or rearward slightly. As you can imagine there isn't much range of adjustment for caster. That's why caster plates are common on many popular cars, to improve the range of adjustment.

Concentrate on telling your alignment guy about what kind of roads you drive on, and how hard you drive in corners. They shoot for more camber for hard driven cars(they should or you tell them to), and they stagger left/right due to the perceived crowned roads they think you drive on. If you rarely drive on roads with a lot of crown to them(high in center and rolls down either way), then tell them that and make them equalize the left/right camber and caster.

Some shops will ignore you or not even discuss it with you. I don't deal with those places. I have mine set as equally left and right as possible. I hardly see a road with any major crown in it. I can steer myself whether the car likes it or not.

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks for the reply Don.

I do know that I want the camber set at .5*to 1* positive. For off road use this setting will work better for the upward arc of the articulation.

The toe will be set like normal I imagine, 1/8" in.

I really don't have much room for caster settings, (as you say) because the eccentric washers will be pushing away on both sides of the UCA to give me that positive camber. I have the 4* camber washer/bolt kits installed to achieve this with the lift from the coilover's.

I guess I don't have much to worry about, ( I have some bad luck with the alignment shops around here). I have found an Old school shop where they rely on tape measures and levels instead of computer programs. This is who I need, since the computer guys enter in the "Stock" specs, and cant think outside of the box for lifted rigs.

 

[CDW6212R]

The tire wear I've seen with street driving my 98 and 99 tell me that the OEM front suspension is pretty good. I've asked for the most negative camber, and I have yet to have any edge tire wear problems. Some vehicles eat tires, like early 80's Crown Vics, older Fords etc.

As well as the Explorer has done, I'd feel comfortable altering the alignment as needed for off roading. So take what you have learned about off roading and tell the alignment shop what works best for that. Regards,

 

[gmanpaint]

Alignment was done yesterday.

The shop had it for the entire day and set it to what they thought was the right way to go about it and not to what I had asked for. I asked for some positive camber and they set it at absolute zero.

There is some bump steer in it now. It wants to pull to the left a little as well. I just can't seem to win around here with these shops.

When I first arrived, I noticed a white stripe all the way around the tires. I thought it was a chalk test of some kind, so I asked about it. The guy says "NO, thats paint! Thats how we check the toe". I thought he was kidding me, nope, it was oil based paint! It was sprayed on, so it goes all the way down the lugs to the base of the tire itself. After the trip home, it was still there. Wow.

He did tell me that the toe changes a half inch when the front suspension is compressed and he cant help that with my set up as it is. After a drive in it, and pulling into a parking lot, the pass side C/V axle was clicking hard like it was going out. Sheesh, can I please get a break here? The angles are to great with the lift on the LCA's.

I have decided to lower the front coil overs 1" this weekend. I will back off the compression on the coil overs, decreasing the angle, hopefully taking some strain off the front and making the angle relax on the new parts. This will most likely lower the entire front a couple of inches, but since the rig was trimmed for 35" and the 33" are now on it, I should be fine with tire clearance.

This means another trip to an alignment shop, as it will change the toe and camber to negative. Never ending wrenching on this thing! 15 miles on the clock in the last 3 months! Insurance is making $$ with this thing, that's for sure....lol

 

[97sprt4x4]

That's completely unacceptable. I would have it in front of their shop tomorrow morning. And demand they redo it the way that you told them to. I made that mistake when I went to get mine done after the tt and bigger tires. And they set it up for stock suspension and for stock tire size. And because of that it messed up my tires real bad.

 

[Turdle]

They probably have a bit more caster on the driver side--have them even it out a bit by putting more on the passenger side ( move the adjustable arm back a tad). Tell them they did not deliver what you asked for up front, which is why you took it to them. Don't let them give you a run around after they knew what they were getting into.

 

[gmanpaint]

Well, it will be going back next week. After it is lowered, it will need it done again anyways. I will make sure they understand I need a little positive camber in it, or I will simply go elsewhere. If they wont do it, well shame on them, and they can kiss my A**!!

On another note, last night it was kinda cold out, and for the first, oh say...5 mins of running it, the idle was screwy. The idle was real high for the first 2 mins, like around 1500 rpms, and then it acted like a rev limiter does. It just kept going up to 1200 rpms & back down to 500 rpms, back and forth kind of rapidly, until it warmed up, then it stopped, and leveled off at normal 600 rpms, and stayed there.

IAC need cleaning? The manual computer messing something up? Haven't had it out in the cold since the manual trans swap. So, I dunno.

 

[Turdle]

caster

More caster angle "forces" the wheel back to center-more on one side will make it pull to that side.


Not talking Camber this time

If you have the 2 piece passenger side arm, try adjusting it back ( top to the rear) about 1/8" and drive it--see if the pull feeling is decreased.

 

[gmanpaint]

caster

More caster angle "forces" the wheel back to center-more on one side will make it pull to that side.


Not talking Camber this time

Ok, caster. But if I walk in there and tell them more caster, and they say, "How much more?" Than what? I haven't a clue how to reply to that. A little more? 1/2 degree more?

These guys are kinda jerks, and act as if they are doing me a favor, and could care less if they got my bizz or not. I would normally just walk away from people like that, but I don't have many options around here. I am just about willing to take it to the shop in Chanute KS, to get it done correctly and deal with people that seem to still have the helpful attitude.

 

[Maniak]

Sheesh, you are having fun with alignment shops. If they don't set it to "your specs" and it doesn't ride right, then they need to fix it. It doesn't matter if the factory specs don't work. If they can't align it right, you don't pay.

Now if you give them numbers and they set it to your numbers, and it doesn't ride right then thats a different story...

As for Caster.. If one side is more than the other it will pull to the side with more caster (I think I typed that right).

Do you know what your at right now? You at least want no caster split (same on both sides). As to how much, I don't know the "range" for normal, but more caster helps keep the tires straight on the freeway. Just don't go too much. I don't know the "range", but I know 12 degrees is too much (what I have now).

~Mark