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Does anyone have a wiring diagram to help out here?

Might need both 95 and 98 . Thanks in advance.

um.....you do on that ford disk i sent a few years ago
 






um.....you do on that ford disk i sent a few years ago

seems I did a win 10 change and none of the cd's I had would work and they became frisbees before switching back to win7


I have no cd's at all in my house. no dvd's, no music.
 






seems I did a win 10 change and none of the cd's I had would work and they became frisbees before switching back to win7


I have no cd's at all in my house. no dvd's, no music.

Who did you let take them all outside to play with?
 






C212 male and female for 1995
May or maynot be the same, they can change terminal location/wire color

56535574.gif


56535575.gif
 






Also take the key out and get the column to lock, that way it doesn't go out of rotation on the clock spring.

X2

If you cant lock the steering wheel, take some 1 inch painters tape and wrap the tape between the spokes of the wheel and around the shifter and the turn signal switch to keep the steering wheel from rotating.

1: so youre not 360 degrees or more out on your steering wheel when you put it back together

And 2: MOST IMPORTANTLY, you dont cut the ribbon within the clock spring, requiring replacement.

Most of the vehicles I work with dont lock or you have to go get a special pin tool to lock the steering wheel.

My go-to is always just the painters tape
 






Thanks kurt!!

Pretty sure once the wheel is locked, it won't move. But I have plenty of tape just in case. :)

I will turn those diagrams so I can read them later. Much appreciated!!

Edit: Easier on the old neck this way. :)

C212 's

95M
95C212M Adj.jpg

95 F
95C212F Adj.jpg

98M
98C212M Adj.jpg

98F
98C212F Adj.jpg


Can't find circuit 810 (R/LG) on any of those. It is the BPP switch output (pin 2) on the BPP itself. It must go to the Gem first.

Found the rest, and they have matching circuit #'s and pin locations on C212. Which makes it easier to identify if one of them is misplaced. EXCEPT for LG/R wire. It says C10 on the switch diagram, but is C162 on the C212 diagrams. Weird? Misprint? Wrong diagrams?

98 BPP connector.gif


Edit #2... I found that the C10 LG/R wire is power from the fuse panel. It is #13, the fuse that is grounded and blowing with the pedal press. After the BPP it turns into C511 LG wire. This wire/circuit is the one I need to fix. It splices into C569 DG wire for the high stop, I imagine at the S212 in the dash.

95 brake circuit diagram.gif
 






As far as diagrams go, it would be easier to locate the circuit number we are dealing with and figure out what runs on that circuit and find the corresponding diagram, AllDataPro is stupid like that. Ill check ProDemand today and see what i can find.

When we spoke last night, you said the Gray connector was the one you were going after. But looking at the diagram and pictures posted, It sounds like the black connector is what you want.

You said it was directly behind the I/P Fuse block and from the pictures that would be the black connector i believe (apposed to mid-dash, like the gray one is).

Can anyone confirm this?
 












excellent
 






I wonder if your 3rd brake light might be part of the issue, if the circuit is different than the 98 and wiring. Have you by chance run a power to the brake light separately, either at the hatch connector, or on the brake wire elsewhere? I wonder if it will blow a fuse doing that too, or if that puts the power past the problem spot. If the 3rd light doesn't work, I wonder if the wire to it is grounded somewhere along the circuit?
 






I thought of this way back when the rig was returned, and I discovered the high stop not working. I have indeed disconnected the high stop, and put another power source to the ballast. It works just fine. I then disconnected the ballast, and tested the brake circuit. It failed, and blew the fuse (#13). That post was made way back when the rig was returned in Jan or Feb 2018. The circuits are the same for the high stop from 95 to 98 I believe.

The circuit is grounding either at the C212 where C10 becomes C511, C511 becomes C569, or a mismatch pin placement in C212. A current belief (by the installer) is that C511 brake circuit, is grounded to the one touch power module at C212. I disconnected the door jamb can to test this, and the fuse didn't blow when depressing the pedal.

After seeing that circuit C511 goes directly to the GEM, and is powered by C10 from the fuse panel, I'm not entirely convinced the issue is at C212 yet. Waiting on a response for the installer on his thoughts are and a possible fix for this.

A few other tests was done to rule out other bad parts. Cruise does not work as it knows the C511 is not right. Hazard flasher was tested, found good. Gem was tested for ground, and found good. The other BPP circuits was tested for ground, and found good. It is just this C511 from the pedal out that is bad.

Sorry, my head hurts now. I'm out.
 






I see, you have already dug through a lot of the circuit paths. Hopefully you will find it soon with the dash(212) connector out.
 






Ok so the rear left and rear right brake/park lamps work?

And the turn signals work?
 












Yeah, they run off a diff circuit and fuse #9.

Sorry, still not getting email notifications on any new posts. Just seen this.

Interesting. From the diagram you posted on #2774 it looks like there is a splice tying them all together.
 






So i found an excellent color diagram on ProDemand But i can not save it in any acceptable format :banghead::banghead::banghead:
 






Fuse 13 & 9 both run to the BPP.

Brake light circuit 511 splits at the BPP for both the high stop, and trailer tow harness.

For the high stop, it becomes 569. For the tow harness, it becomes 64 & 52. I believe this happens inside the Splice 212 box, before C226. After C226 they run to the fuse panel, and fuse 7 & 3 run the trailer lights.

S10 (R/LG) at the BPP from fuse #13 goes to the GEM. This is the fuse that is grounding out.

Where 511 splices into 64 is also in S212 according to this diagram. This is why I'm not completely sold on the issue being inside the 212 pinout connector, or maybe a combo of both?

light diagram 1.jpg



Tow harness 2.gif


Testing the trailer lights with a 4 pin tester lamp... When flipping on the turn signals, one works, the other flashes the brake light. These are the only functions that send power to the back. No brake lights with pedal depressed, no tail/running lights with headlights on, and one turn not working in the correct spot on the tester.

4 pin tester.jpg
 






guys, does this look right to you?

In theory, GMan could apply power to #2 on the fuse panel and the rear brake light should light up.
Also following that thought, shouldn't fuse 2 (7.5a) (Not fuse 13 (15a)) be the first to blow if anything after that point is shorted to ground?
Am I looking at the wrong diagram? The ****ty thing is, if this is correct, my brain is going the full circle back to S212 as the issue.

1995 Wiring
upload_2019-7-25_14-21-29.png
 



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As I keep digging, I can see the differences in the 1995/1998 connector with the high mount brake light.
With the 1998 S212 wiring is pin 511 and pin 569 jumped together? That's kinda what it looks like to me. It's just so crappy that S212 is so hard to get at.

Or...are these the diagrams the original guy was looking at when he adjusted the wiring harness and created a short by following this?

1998 Wiring

upload_2019-7-25_14-53-25.png
 






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