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Turbo on 2000 Limited 5.0

Turbo compressor map.gif
Well guys, I don't even have it yet and I'm looking at going turbo.

I think I'll be going STS style with the turbo underneath the the body. I'm hoping I can find room somewhere closer to the front to mount it. If not, I may just go classic style and cut the muffler out and install the turbo in its place.

Tim was kind enough to point me at a turbo for sale locally. I'm checking it out now. I sent the specs to James Henson to see what his thoughts are.

Here's the specs:
t4 F1-68 turbine .68 a/r housing 3" exhaust outlet with a 72mm compressor blade 4inch inlet, 2.5 inch outlet, journal bearing. Also, see compressor map attached. I have a vague understanding, and that concerns me.

Now, the next issue is oil routing.
Oil in to the turbo would be handled from a T off the oil pressure sending unit on the block. Return oil would need a scavenge pump to the top of the oil pan, or in the timing chain cover. The scavenge pump adds quite a bit of cost to the setup. I think saving a few bucks in this area would spell disaster. So, this seems to be the best pump out there:
http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Exa-Pump/Exa-Pump.html
Stainless steel oil lines will have to be used. As I read about under cab mounted turbo's oil issues seem to be a huge issue. This is going to require careful thought and routing.

My real issue is routing the air filter and compressed air up to the engine bay.
The frame rails will be the the way. I saw one guy notched out his frame for the plumbing and re-enforced the frame by welding metal around the plumbing line (3 inch or 4 inch hole). I'm concerned about running the two pipes and think this will be the biggest challenge. I really don't want that air filter under the truck.
See what this guy did on his ranger?

As for Maf? Pro-M all the way, in a blow thru design.

Fuel pump, injectors, sct go without saying. I'll be having James put together a care package for me along with the Pro-M.
Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump
Bosch uscar (EV6) 60lb injectors part # 108191

I'll recycle my boost gauge and wide band o2 from my supercharged 4.0 ohv.

I'll be using stainless steel for everything under the truck as rust always seems to be an issue.

Also. intercooling. I learned from my last project that cool intake air is incredibly important. People say on under cabin turbo's you don't really need it as the compressed air cools on the way up. Not good enough for me. Im going to go air/water so I have flexibility as to where I mount the intercooler. This could change, but intercooling of some form is a must.

My eye's are watering at what this is going to cost.

I see 02Limited turbo'd his, but he must have had quite a few issues and fell off the forum.

Not much info on guys completing something like this to be found. All input appreciated.

This will be a long process.
 
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Dono

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How'd you get a drill up there to get the 4 holes drilled? one of those sideways style drills?
 
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CDW6212R

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Isn't that where the air cleaner is, the other side of that?

I've got an external filter on my 99 that I might have drilled the holes without the front end on it. It's mounted where the front body mount is, the pocket above there I put three holes/bolts in.

Projectthread110.JPG
 
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Dono

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Don, I like that spot under the air box (Or at least where the air box would be) for ease of installation.
It just isn't as protected as inside the inner fender though. Its probably worth the struggle to get the pump a bit more protected.
 
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vroomzoomboom

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I took the mount off the pump, and used it as a template. Then drilled two holes from the engine bay side, then bolted the pump in. Was a little bit of a change lining them up and threading the bolts, but it's in there. I should make a small plate on the bay side one of these days, but today isn't looking good. Tomorrow isn't either
 
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vroomzoomboom

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And it does Sheild it for the most part from water, as long as I don't go
camicazi into puddles
 
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Dono

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Yea, I'm going to try to have everything on hand for piping and taking a run at mounting the pump for December 29th now. I 'think' I will have that day to myself and the truck will hopefully have sat in the garage over Christmas so it will be dry.

Nice warm garage, radio, working on the truck getting some alone time. Sounds like a Christmas gift to me.
 
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CDW6212R

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Sounds good, inside and warm.
 
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CDW6212R

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Mine isn't heated, but I do leave the kitchen door open to help.
 
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Dono

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Well, not much has happened, other than taking out my crank thrust bearing again. I'll post on that as I learn more. On a side note, pull time was about 6 hours even with people hanging around me wanting to visit while I work. I'm a bit of an introvert at times, so I'd rather be alone rather than have the distractions. In fairness, I'm not dealing with frozen, rusted bolts.

I had a bit of time to myself tonight, so I started upgrading my intake piping from 2 to 2 1/2". The pipe pictured is the pipe going around the wheel well.
There is a transition before the Maf, but instead of being 2" to 3" its now 2 1/2" to 3". Much better. What I'm hoping to accomplish is lower intake air temps with less transitions (The intercooler under the truck is 3" in and out also, so the 2-3" transition was happening twice. Between that, and the crushed 2" pipe, I was below 2" pipe size at the rear of the truck with shitty flow.

On my list( while the motor is out) is mounting the meth pump, and removing the 2" crush bend piping from the turbo to the inter-cooler on the frame rail.

intake piping.jpg


intake piping2.jpg
 
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CDW6212R

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Very nice, there's a big difference in area/flow from a 2" to 2.5" pipe, huge difference truly. I'm sure that will help quite a bit. I hope you get the thrust bearing issue solved this time also.
 
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4pointslow

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That new pipe looks real good!
I hope the thrust bearing failure cause is something simple and inexpensive.
6 hours is pretty fast for pulling an engine too.
 
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Dono

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Ok, so here's the back half removed piping. Not much here, basically 2 3 foot sections that are bent up far more than any picture could show. Keep in mind there is a section of around 3 feet between the frame rail and running board that has the inter-cooler and blow off valve piping.

Its tricky running the pipe up nice and high over the diff on the inside of the frame rail, then down and around the frame rail after the leaf spring, but before the muffler. No room there at all. Before, the pipe was run under the leaf spring right at the frame pivot. This barely worked with 2 inch piping, and there is no way I'd do it with 2.5 inch.

So, I ended up much closer to the muffler than I'd like. Also, I ended up with a 45 degree silicone elbow super close to the muffler. That won't work for me. I'm back to silicone intakes for a 2 foot tube with a 45 degree bend in the center. Once I get everything mocked up to my liking, I'll wrap the intake piping that's close to the muffler in header wrap.

It's a good thing that the motor's out anyway, as I can order exactly what I need. From my first "best guess" I'm going to have quite a bit of 2.5" pipe left over, not much for silicone joiners or clamps though.

If I could get pictures from under the truck I would, but its all but impossible to get a good one without a lift. I'll maybe get one of the problem area by the muffler next time I'm under there.

back half piping.jpg
 
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CDW6212R

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That's going to help a lot.
 
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Dono

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Looking at those crush bends, I think your right. I'm betting the air was breaking the sound barrier at those crushes. lol.
 
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Dono

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Ok, piping upgrade complete.
I'm including pics of what I had to do getting the larger charge pipe over the frame rail.
No idea how the header wrap is going to hold up under there. I don't see myself banging the pipe as I don't go wheeling, and have 31.5" diameter tires. Going to take some stupidity for me to bank that pipe. Please look past the oil spattered muffler due to crank movement and rear main seal leaking, lol.
I think the slight trade off will be well worth it.

charge pipe 1.jpg


charge pipe 2.jpg


charge pipe from running board.jpg
 
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ahodges

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Looks good! I like new parts :)
 
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Dono

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In between the 'Honey do's' I was able to sneak some time in on the Water/Meth setup.
Why stray from the pump mounting location that seems to work for everyone?
It's not vacuum/pressure tested yet, but no leaks so far.

I do have a question for you guys though. Where did you run the wires thru the firewall?

Meth pump.jpg


Meth Bottle.jpg
 
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vroomzoomboom

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i ran them threw the gromit for the vacuum lines for the heater controls
 
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Dono

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Thanks. I was looking blankly at the firewall not seeing anything at all. lol
 
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