Jakee's 4.0 SOHC Build up discussion and motivation thread | Page 62 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Jakee's 4.0 SOHC Build up discussion and motivation thread

After Camber adjusters, Body bushings, rear sway bar, and brakes are complete, I'll be posting baseline dyno numbers. First things first. Must be safe!


EDIT (11-6-2007)

Let me save you some time by posting the summary to this thread. The thread is filled with a bunch of off topic ramblings. Read on if you want but be warned.

Summary to this thread....

I'm going to attempt to close this thread because the N/A goal is coming to an end. I really lost interest in the N/A goal a few months back, and It just doesn't make sense (from a $/HP perspective) to buy anymore bolt-ons when the force feed options are available for us 4.0 SOHC guys. I would rather save the money to buy a turbo than to keep spending big bucks for little gains. And so, this is what I did, and these are my opinions on how the mod worked out.

The first thing was the intake. I can remember going around in circles trying to figure out which one to buy. The Volant? no, the K&N....wait a minute, the MAC is cheaper? Anyways, I finally decided on the MAC intake because of the cost. All and all, an intake is an intake. You're not going to see a big huge difference between any of them, but I still feel the best out there is the Volant. I believe in a "Closed" intake. In other words; I don't like the idea of sucking hot engine air thru an open filter under the hood. That's just me and the difference between a "Closed" intake and an "Open" is very small. I did, however, see a gain from customizing the MAC intake by closing in the air filter with a trash can....Yes, you heard me right, a freaking trash can that I cut to fit in the engine bay. It worked good and people usually don't notice what it is. They just think it looks cool. Anyways, I also replaced the MAC filter with a Volant filter; cut a 3-1/2" hole thru the fender and placed a Volant filter thru it. No water can get to it, well....not from this area....I then added spectra hoses from the front of the vehicle where the fog lights were for a "Ram air" attempt. I had a couple of aluminum parts machined for a clean install. That was it for the intake.

Next, I believe I ordered the 73MM C&L from hensonperfromance. This housing uses the same electronics but is just a bit bigger than the stock plastic MAF housing. The gain was small, but was worth it. I believe I've found dyno's of a 7 RWHP gain? Not sure, but there is a gain there.

The TB was the next thing. I purchased a 4.6 TB from KBX performance because I heard a guy named James had discovered it to work with the 4.0 SOHC. I later fooled around and half shafted it. Basically, what that does is removes half the rod that the butterfly is attached too. Do a search on "half shafting a TB" or something like that to get more details. I believe this mod really doesn't give big HP; more throttle response than anything but it's worth it.

When I had the TB off, I noticed this big tube right in the way of the airflow. The tube is the EGR valve and the reason it's sticking in there is to evenly vent exhaust gases back in the intake. Do not remove the EGR valve; it actually helps you. What I did was remove the part that's in the way of the air-flow. I have no idea if this helped me, but It felt like it did. The only ill effect I can think of is maybe one side of the engine is getting more EGR flow; however, I haven't seen traces of this on the spark plugs so I believe it's good.

Now for the exhaust....yeah, it's hard to get a 4.0 SOHC to sound good. In fact, I think mine still sounds pretty bad. I started off with the Gibson Cat back and if your looking for a "Slightly louder than stock" exhaust, then this is the one for you. The gain was good and I liked the sound but I wasn't satisfied. I felt there might be just a little more power I could unleash so I tried a higher flow muffler; a magna-flow. I started off by having a custom Y-pipe made. It has 2-1/4" primaries that y's into a 3" single exhaust. The pipes run back a little ways and goes into a 3" magnaflow cat, then into a 2-1/2" magnaflow muffler, and dumps right before the rear axle. The flow is there but the sound.....I hate it.

I also added JBA stainless headers. I have to say that headers are very expensive for the 4.0 SOHC but there is gain, trust me. If your looking for EVERYTHING you can from the engine, add headers to it later on down the road.

Next is under-drive pulleys....This is one of the better mods in my opinion. The under-drive crank pulley works by slowing down the serpentine belt, which in return, slows down all the accessories running off the belt. The result is more power to your back tires. The only problem I had was it slows the alternator down too much. The fix is an overdrive alt pulley and I added one to speed the alt back up. Problem solved. I'm also running a underdrive water pump pulley with no problems what so ever.

Another good mod is a electric fan. I went with the flex-a-lite 180 and haven't had a problem yet. Very good quality pc.

The best mod, in my opinion, is a tuner. I went with a SCT XCAL II that I picked up from hensonperformance. I think this changed my truck the most and I'm very pleased.

I believe this about sums it up. Every pc of info I just typed here is on the net, and most is right here in this forum, but I wanted to compile some of it for reference purposes....

I made a goal at the begining of this thread, but I'm really not interested anymore. It doesn't make a hill of beans to have high dyno numbers, but it is nice. The only dyno I had sucked; I made 189 to the rear wheels. I'm thinking I'm a bit higher than that but I'm not worried about it.


Next project......TURBO!! and I'll probably do a baseline for this. If so, I'll add the baseline dyno here so there will be N/A results.
 



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Not yet for pinks. I didn't come this far to loose my ride!! (you know how my luck is)

The good thing is; It's official. I'm about to take the step to "THE NEXT LEVEL".


I want to thank someone for helping me get there. You know who you are and I really appriciate everything you've done. (I'm not saying names because I don't think the person wants to be reconized)


Now, it's time to make a fast explorer. However; don't hold your breath because I'm still busy as heck with stuff around the house, and I'm not putting a date of when I'll be done.

This will be by FAR the biggest mod I've done.
 



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Not yet for pinks. I didn't come this far to loose my ride!! (you know how my luck is)

The good thing is; It's official. I'm about to take the step to "THE NEXT LEVEL".


I want to thank someone for helping me get there. You know who you are and I really appriciate everything you've done. (I'm not saying names because I don't think the person wants to be reconized)


Now, it's time to make a fast explorer. However; don't hold your breath because I'm still busy as heck with stuff around the house, and I'm not putting a date of when I'll be done.

This will be by FAR the biggest mod I've done.




Jake, I take full credit for selling you those Bubb Rubb whistle tips... Ya know, the ones that go "wooooo....woooooooooooo...dog..." :D


Hope you all get that, otherwise it will sure make a lame joke. Hehehehe.
 






Jake, I take full credit for selling you those Bubb Rubb whistle tips... Ya know, the ones that go "wooooo....woooooooooooo...dog..." :D


Hope you all get that, otherwise it will sure make a lame joke. Hehehehe.


I got dem whistle tips.. it go wooo woooooo. :)

Half the people that hear my truck think I have Bubb Rubb riding shotgun.. now more than ever since I took the silencer ring out of the Holset.
 






so much for my secret weapon.



I'm thinking about getting a HUGE set of bull nuts for the rear of my x too. I wonder if I can get them to horizontal on launch?
 






I want to see this thread bust 2000 posts!:D
 






























One step closer.
I love it! One more. I think Jake should get an award for having the single largest thread in the explorerforum history. Maybe a plaque or something. That would be sweet!!! Rocket, oh I mean Robert what about that crapton conversion I still want to see it.
 






Xan, is there anyway I can get you into a ExCal2 and away from the Hypertech?
 






Hey guys - Just in case you haven't been following some of the other threads out there I would like to let you in on something.

James (AKA JAH81592) owns Henson performance and is a vendor here. He is a up and coming tuner and he is going to "remote tune" me. In other words, I will do some pulls on the backroads and shot him the datalogs. He will then adjust and we'll make some more pulls. I'm not sure how many pulls I'll have to make before being tuned but this is the plan. Also, james will make a thread describing how this process works.

After all this is done, I'll go and get some numbers for you guys so you can see where I'm at. The beauty of this all is you don't have to just live with a Mail order tune anymore when you don't live close to your tuner. You can be remote tuned and be VERY close to the max of your vehicle.

Now, if I ever decide to do some sort of force feed induction, I will fly James up to me so he can get in my truck and listed for anthing that might be wrong.

Back on the serious track, I would like to mention that once I start this I will start a thread and keep the members informed of the progress with screen shots,etc. I believe the main problem with so many people thinking a dyno tune is the best tune is because of the lack of knowledge associated with the subject. First thing to consider the main reason for going to the dyno is the ability to have a wideband. With this you will be able to make the adjustments necessary to accomplish the desired a/f's. Secondly this "tool"-dyno also gives you numbers to tell you the progress of your bolt on's. As long as you have the a/f's dialed in correctly you can actually go to the dyno and pay for only 3 pulls or so and just get your #'s. Actually if your tuner has tuned several vehicle of this type he or she will know where (a/f) the best power is made. So theoretically the only tools needed for proper tuning is a laptop, datalogging software and a wideband.I feel confident a street tuned vehicle will be loaded more and you get better "real world load" with this type of tuning. I have several customers which I have street tuned vs. dyno tuned (same vehicle) and the street tuning is generally the one they run all the time.-j
 






As soon as I get the truck back together, I'll be almost ready to start the remote tune.


Another thing; You know how something grows on you? At first, it may seem like something you don't like to much, and later you realize it's actually pretty cool? That's how the headers are turning out. At first, I really didn't like MY choice of coating, but now that I've held them up in the engine bay, they actually go pretty good as far as looks are concerned. I can't wait to see the performance side of things.


And also; My Dad has almost finished my Y-pipe. Wait to you see pics of this bad boy!!! I believe we have a winning design now. I would feel pretty bad not to share this with others. I hope it performs as good as it looks! One thing I do know; It'll be better than any crumpled up stock y, and I bet it will be better than the compitition out there, and I also bet it'll be higher qualilty...
 






I forgot one thing (this is why the thread is so big)

The Y-pipe will require a re-tune to get the "MOST" out of it. plain and simple.

We'll see what happens on my ride, and if you haven't noticed by now, I'm VERY HONEST. you will get the truth.
 






Back on the serious track, I would like to mention that once I start this I will start a thread and keep the members informed of the progress with screen shots,etc. I believe the main problem with so many people thinking a dyno tune is the best tune is because of the lack of knowledge associated with the subject. First thing to consider the main reason for going to the dyno is the ability to have a wideband. With this you will be able to make the adjustments necessary to accomplish the desired a/f's. Secondly this "tool"-dyno also gives you numbers to tell you the progress of your bolt on's. As long as you have the a/f's dialed in correctly you can actually go to the dyno and pay for only 3 pulls or so and just get your #'s. Actually if your tuner has tuned several vehicle of this type he or she will know where (a/f) the best power is made. So theoretically the only tools needed for proper tuning is a laptop, datalogging software and a wideband.I feel confident a street tuned vehicle will be loaded more and you get better "real world load" with this type of tuning. I have several customers which I have street tuned vs. dyno tuned (same vehicle) and the street tuning is generally the one they run all the time.-j



+1. Especially with turbo'd vehicles that rely on load to spool. Small load on non-eddie current dyno equals less realistic spool time. This in turn leads to tuning for conditions that will change the second the vehicle drives off the dyno and onto the street. Street/track tuning all the way.
 






Got the headers on today but haven't finished the exhaust.

The headers were actually pretty easy to install and everything lined up pretty good. Just had to bend the EGR tube a bit and had one heck of a time with a couple of bolts on the passengers side. Other than that, not to bad.

I'm ready to hear what this thing is gonna sound like...and what it's gonna do.
 












Will do. Aldive - Where you been at?
 






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Can't wait to see how it turns out, can you get us a sound clip once the exhaust is done? How much was the cat? I am wanting to redo my exhaust with a free flowing set up, and was looking at the magnaflow cats as part of it.
 






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