The Black Hole

[Turdle]

dont worry, do not weld it.

hows that?

I guess that's going to have to work.

 

[gmanpaint]

So I removed the drive shaft to measure pinion angle vs T-case angle.

Front T-case flange is 87* down. Rear pinion flange is 85* up. I put a bubble level on both flanges to make sure I was getting my up & down orientation correct. Here is what I am having wrapping my head around. Is it 2* off or 8* off?

87-85=2*
or
90-87=3* & 90-85=5* so 3+5=8*

2* is fine if both the same orientation I believe.
8* is not OK if going the opposite orientation.

From what I understand is that U-joints can be within 3-4* off from each other and cancel the other out alright. So if I am 8* off, the 4* shims I have should work. I'm trying to figure this out before I tear the leafs apart. Ugh...

I also found the rear flange to be loose and has some in/out play. About a 1/4" of movement and the fluid covered dif and the wet fuel tank/body shows it.

 

[gmanpaint]

So since the last post... I have been schooled by somebody that knows way more than I.

It is only 2* off, so no shims needed. It was measured on level ground and loaded at ride height. Glad I didn't open the shim package, as they are going back. I can use the funds towards the shops charge for the work done. Sheesh, my brain hurts.

 

[Brian1]

New crush sleeve will be installed and pre-load set by them.

Weld to Top main or lower overload? :scratch:

since you have to do it over, don't put in a crush sleeve, buy a solid spacer kit and have them put that in. It is about $10-15 on ebay for the kit.

Weld to the overload - lesser of 2 evils kind of thing

 

[gmanpaint]

since you have to do it over, don't put in a crush sleeve, buy a solid spacer kit and have them put that in. It is about $10-15 on ebay for the kit.

Weld to the overload - lesser of 2 evils kind of thing

Never knew about that solid spacer! Thanks Brian, I will search it out.

I was leaning to the overload, just thought it could snag and break off there. Chances of hitting it, is minimal tho.

So, here's a video showing the loose pinion shaft. I'm thinking I must have over tightened it, causing the sleeve to fail, when I last replaced the seal.

Click on the picture below.

Edit: I found the solid spacer for the 8.8 on E-bay. Will be here in a few days. I realized what it is after I seen it. I used this in a GM axle way back in the 1900's. If I remember, it was a PITA to install dealing with the shims. Hopefully the shop I take it too, is more of a custom then a production mindset, and are familiar with the solid kit.

Edit again: Scratch that shop off the list. New plan has developed, and the axle is coming out and going to an experienced 4x4 shop. Few bucks more, for peace of mind is worth it. Since that is happening, I can't not take advantage of this, and that big mod I mentioned a while back is happening now. The race to be done for Moab, has just intensified!!

 

[gmanpaint]

So... If you have followed either of my registries, you know I just can't put something back together without cleaning it up first.

Driveshaft came out, and I decided to rebuild it before putting it back in. I have new Solid sealed Spicer U-Joints for it, but first.... Since I have a fresh POR15 kit just sitting on a shelf, well.......

 

[Mike's brother]

Gmanpaint, your rear end looks amazing.
Ok, that sounded wrong.

It's awesome when we get to project fun stuff rather than getting thru seemingly endless broken part issues.

I love to see this stuff.

Have to add, that is a great looking rear. Looking forward to tales of the Yukon 88 kits.

Of course, that means more stuff gets on my someday list. The wife will be thrilled.

:exp:

 

[Paul]

So... If you have followed either of my registries, you know I just can't put something back together without cleaning it up first.

I share your affliction . . . glad I'm not the only one! Looking great, looking forward to seeing this rig in a few weeks.

Paul
'91 Sport

 

[gmanpaint]

Have to add, that is a great looking rear. Looking forward to tales of the Yukon 88 kits.

Of course, that means more stuff gets on my someday list. The wife will be thrilled.

:exp:

Thanks Mikes Bro!
Like any rear end, break her in easy.

I share your affliction . . . glad I'm not the only one! Looking great, looking forward to seeing this rig in a few weeks.

Paul
'91 Sport

Thanks Paul!
A lot of obstacles I have to overcome to make it to Moab, but I am working my hardest to make it happen!

Post 1804 has been updated with new U-joint info!!! (Such a mess)

 

[gmanpaint]

The appointment has been made for the rear axle rebuild, but they are booked solid until the April 20th. Man this is cutting it close!

So, since the rear will be gutted for the work, they are going to pre-heat to 400* in their oven, then weld the tubes to the housing for an extra $100! I think that is a steal of a deal! Woot!!

 

[CDW6212R]

Great upgrades, nice to get them together at once.

BTW, going back a second to the old IFS front, is there a better front axle than the stock choices? I've got to swap parts from two trucks, and two axles are unknowns that'll be for my power SUV. I've never noticed any mention of different stronger axles, but maybe someone here knows.

 

[gmanpaint]

As far as I know, motorcraft is the best out there off the shelf. RCV will make a set of lifetime warranty cv axles, but they want about $1k each! lol.

 

[CDW6212R]

LOL, and okay, that's what I thought. I hoped that enough off roading had created enough need for something else. Of course I don't know if the 250HP I plan to run to them will do any harm either. The drive shaft might be the weakest link, nobody's pushed the limit yet. Thanks,

 

[gmanpaint]

So the BTF arms arrived today. Ordered Black, got gun metal gray. Not a big deal. Been stripping them down to bare metal, so I can coat them with the black POR15.

These things are pure Beef!

 

[gmanpaint]

How does that saying go? Oh yeah...... "With a name like Smuckers, it has to be good!"

The BTF DOM tube upper arms are well thought out and I understand why they cost as much as they do after having them in my hands. The multiple degrees and offsets, plus the machined Uniball stud that holds the machined bushings & stud for the Knuckle pinch point, is pretty complex. These were a bit more complex, as they were made an extra 1/2" longer then normal for me. I wanted the extra for the alignment bolts to have plenty of room on either side of the stock frame ear slots.

They have a 1" Uniball, that can be replaced if ever needed. Grade 8 stud with locknut. Black poly bushings, and a BTF logo welded on the fronts.

They come in their stock color of Gun Metal Gray Hammertone. Nothing more then a simple rattle can spray paint. I stripped them with Lacquer thinner and a scotch brite pad easily. Rinsed them clean with acetone, hung them up, and applied 2 coats of POR15 gloss black. The logo tag plate was highlighted with Steel Chrome, and the lettering with multiple coats of Red metallic flake.

I wont be able to get them on until after the rear axle gets installed. Appointment for that is next week, and however long it takes for them to finish up. Hopefully not more then a couple of days. (fingers crossed)

So a few pics of them until they are installed to satisfy the picture fiends.

1) Out of the box
2) Hung and 1st coat of POR15
3&4) 2 coats POR15, and accent colors

 

[Dono]

Beautiful!

 

[Maniak]

Another option if you don't want to weld those u-bolts on is to do what [MENTION=3817]BKennedy[/MENTION] did.. I "think" he used the existing hole in the spring (what used to hold the sliding shims) to put a bolt though and to hold the u-shaped metal..

Of course, I was planning on welding to mine but I need to replace my springs since after 5 wheeling trips my springs are starting to W again.. (they go inverted, a lot when wheeling).

~Mark

 

[gmanpaint]

Other then threading one of those holes, I can't see how that would work.

the leaf above is flush to the leaf below. Maybe i'm not understanding correctly. :scratch:

 

[gmanpaint]

Been a few years since I have had to fully remove the rear axle. Last I did it, was on the 94 in like 2012 maybe. I have been fighting the E-brake line end (one side) on the back of the axle for over an hour and haven't got it to come off yet.

I tried to compress the little spring clips and push the cable forward to get it out for slack, with no luck.

I backed the star wheel out as much as possible, went at it again, and no luck.

I tried brute force with pry-bars, and no luck.

How the heck do these come off?

 

[CDW6212R]

Try a flare nut wrench that will fit the cable and compress the metal clips. I think that's the tool I read of helping for those.