The Black Hole

[jrgaylor]

Those would most likely work alright. Stock eye to eye center is 17.250" fully collapsed, but the 9000 stock size are good for up to 2" of lift. I have about 3" of rear lift right now. Send me a PM with some info on the set please. Thanks Joe!

Will do

 

[CDW6212R]

Those look great, and thanks to Brian too. I have a set of those spring perches from him for a normal shock, mine are a lowered app.

For my wheels I had begun with 94-97 Cobra 17x8, which are on my Lincoln now. I've had a tough time finding wheels I like too, nothing non-OEM interests me much. I settled on these Volk Racing GTC wheels. This picture is of a new wheel, mine are used and all silver. I will have to have the stud holes altered to move the seat down slightly to use a 1/2" stud lugnut. I might have them refinished too if the price isn't too bad.

 

[gmanpaint]

Those are sharp for a street rig!

 

[Brian1]

Thanks Gman! Looking good! Those 7000's can be run body-up since they are a monotube and then you can put the boot on the bottom, away from the exhaust. That is how I run my 5100s. Now that you have them on there, probably not worth re-doing.

 

[Albino 94LTD]

I'll bring a pair of RS99117 fronts with me to Moab. Still work great. If you like em, we can discuss a beer or two. (they have been to Moab already )

 

[gmanpaint]

I'll bring a pair of RS99117 fronts with me to Moab. Still work great. If you like em, we can discuss a beer or two. (they have been to Moab already )

Thanks Phil, I have a set installed and have been running them for 5 years now on the first gen. So far so good, but I do think they are restricting travel, and could use a set that are a little longer to go with the 2" lift. The 999039 are only good for up to 1.5" lift. Hmm... Time to look at the catalog.

Ok, I looked.


Current front set up in Pugly
999039- Upper=S4 post. Lower=L1 eyelet. Collapsed=10.375 Extended=14.500 Travel=4.188
New rear setup after one replacement is delivered.
999185- Upper=XP11 crossbar. Lower=LS38 eyelet. Collapsed=16.375 Extended=26.063 Travel=9.688

So....

The 999117 #'s are- Upper=S4 post. Lower L1 eyelet. Collapsed=12.375 Extended=18.688 Travel=6.313

These have 2" difference in collapsed rates, and with the 2" lift, these would work, and give more travel. Ok, got me thinking now! lol

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks Gman! Looking good! Those 7000's can be run body-up since they are a monotube and then you can put the boot on the bottom, away from the exhaust. That is how I run my 5100s. Now that you have them on there, probably not worth re-doing.

Thanks again for the mounts. Top notch work just like everything else you do.

If I have to take them off, I will switch directions. I want to install the Yukon 88 kit soon, and might do it then. ( They don't have to come off for that, but while I'm there situation)

 

[gmanpaint]

So for a while I was thinking I lost my marbles while searching for Spicer's solid U-joints on the autoparts websites. Even on Amazon I was coming up with nothing.

I kept digging to find out that Dana had changed the PN#'s for this rig, (& 1st gen).

The old PN# for the front was 5-785X. New PN# is 5-1310X

The old PN# for the rear was 5-790X. New PN# is 5-1330X. This was found to be the wrong size, and takes 5-1310X. I found out the hard way.

I'm afraid to even search out the center ball yolk kit now! lol

 

[Turdle]

Neapco 7-0081


?

 

[gmanpaint]

Neapco 7-0081


?

Thanks for the PN#

Looks like only one local store sells that part, and it is a special order. Rockauto don't even list it. lol

 

[Turdle]

Thanks for the PN#

Looks like only one local store sells that part, and it is a special order. Rockauto don't even list it. lol

I hope that is the right one for your drive shaft, it is the one Daniel used in mine when you guys re did the doo hickey.

 

[gmanpaint]

I hope that is the right one for your drive shaft, it is the one Daniel used in mine when you guys re did the doo hickey.

It is.

 

[Dono]

Gmanpaint, your rear end looks amazing.
Ok, that sounded wrong.

It's awesome when we get to project fun stuff rather than getting thru seemingly endless broken part issues.

I love to see this stuff.

 

[gmanpaint]

Gmanpaint, your rear end looks amazing.
Ok, that sounded wrong.

It's awesome when we get to project fun stuff rather than getting thru seemingly endless broken part issues.

I love to see this stuff.

Is he checking out my rear? I think he is.

LOL! Thanks Dono, It's changed a few times over the years & it has some more work being done again in the next couple weeks. I agree with the wrenching for fun too! Major attitude change when it's for fun.

Have to drop the leaf skids, and install some pinion shims to get a better driveline angle. Then it's off to a shop for some pinion shaft work, & a new seal. Rear shaft is being rebuilt with solid sealed cold forged U-joints also. If I can swing the Yukon 88 kit this month, that will be the big Mod for it.

Front parts haven't arrived from BTF yet. They are making some custom length stuffs for me. I'm getting anxious as time goes by.

I did manage to use those cool Riv-Nuts again today. Bolted the rear tags to the hatch, and a light for it. Wiring the light was a bit of a challenge to tap into the proper circuit, and run what seemed a mile of wire thru the D pillar and hatch. lol

 

[Dono]

I had to look up the Yukon 88 kit. Fantastic upgrade for all modded Ex's with a 8.8 rear end (there I'm am, on the rear end topic again). Awesome. Your going to have a ton of fun wheeling.

 

[gmanpaint]

I had to look up the Yukon 88 kit. Fantastic upgrade for all modded Ex's with a 8.8 rear end (there I'm am, on the rear end topic again). Awesome. Your going to have a ton of fun wheeling.

Yep, it's definitely a great upgrade for wheelers with D60 parts, chromo axles, and the C-clip eliminator. Now my locker becomes the weak link. LOL!!! Always something.

Moab Bound next month!! Woot!!

 

[gmanpaint]

Found out the hard way that the rear U-Joints are 1310, not 1330 as Spicer website says. Can't believe everything I read I guess. lol

EDIT!!!
Got the rear shaft out. The Spicer 1310-X is only for the front Shaft!! They are not as wide as the rear joints!!

I ended up getting the Napa Non-Greaseable solid joints PN# 254. The front Napa Non-Grease-able PN# is 269 (Grease-able #'s are rear 354 & front 369)

 

[gmanpaint]

Looks like the rear will be worked on first, since BTF parts are still a no show yet. New 650# coils are here tho.

I will get the rear pinion shims installed, then take the new pinion flange kit to a shop and have it installed. New crush sleeve will be installed and pre-load set by them.

I think I am going to go against the advice of a leaf spring fabricator, and weld some boxed U-bolts to a spring, to stop them from splaying on the trails. Weld to Top main or lower overload? :scratch:

I picked up some E-track for the cargo floor. That should help hold things down back there. I might even install the interior spare tire mount again, as I won't be getting a new rear bumper in time for next months Moab trip.

I picked up a new (to me) set of 15"x10" wheels, that I like better then what is currently mounted. Going to totally change the look of this rig.

Oh... I have to install another clutch pedal bushing kit. The Dorman kit didn't last long. Time to find a Ford kit!

 

[Turdle]

Boy, back in the day 10 people would have jumped in to tell you not to weld on a leaf spring, while 3-4 others would tell you not to worry. Where is everybody?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Boy, back in the day 10 people would have jumped in to tell you not to weld on a leaf spring, while 3-4 others would tell you not to worry. Where is everybody?

dont worry, do not weld it.

hows that?