The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

Yeah, the extra leaf is temporary until the frame is un twisted. It's not the right way to do it, but it's the right now way. Lol I haven't moved it yet as I am now changing the shock eyelets out. Hope to have em back on by tomorrow, and see what happens after the leafs settle under load.

Fans help, but not 100%. I'm such a bug magnet that even good repellent doesn't work. I'm irresistible, I cant help it.

 

[gmanpaint]

Fox Eyelet swap is done. Ready to go back in tomorrow.

Ordered all new eyelet guts, and new rubber stops for this little project.

To remove them off the shafts, the guts need removed. 2 snap rings holding in the swivel bearing thing a ma bobber.

Placing the shock in the vice, with a couple sockets, the bearing's get pushed out.

Clamping the shaft with a set of soft jaws made for this job, I used MAP gas on the eyelet, heating up the red thread locker inside. Once good and hot, I used a 1/2" extension to turn it off the shaft. Then cleaned all the old thread locker while it was warm, came right off with a rag.

Let it cool off, installed the new rubber stops, then added red thread locker Gel to the shaft. Spun the new 2" eyelet on, and installed the new snap rings.

New eyelet vs old with guts flayed out. I used more care installing the new units, then I did removing the old ones. lol The base on the extensions are way larger then the others. Could be for the added length, giving some structural strength maybe?

Cleaned up the shocks, and took my time installing the resi's back on. This time, the FOX stickers are lined up, and facing the rear. This sticker display alone, will give me at the very least, an extra 25 HP. Maybe even 26.

I really could use a helper putting these back on. The small bolt spacers that have to be installed while compressing the shock is a thing of nightmares. It takes just about all I have to manually compress these while on my back, pushing up, then have to hold it there while placing it just right in the lower shock mount tabs, AND fighting the spacers to fit. There is maybe 1mm of a gap between the spacers & tabs. It will take many many tries, many cuss words, and a few bandages to get these back on. Ugh.


I checked the tracking for the rear calipers from Rock Auto. The email said expect delivery yesterday. Tracking says they are still in another state, with a delivery pending status with Fed Ex. No date is available. Great! Just frigging fantastic. Brakes are getting done without them if they aren't here by Saturday morning, and will keep the old ones on for now.

Always Something!

 

[410Fortune]

Can you use a ratchet strap or ton of zip ties to hold shock compression while you install it

I have decided I like August the best here in Idaho, early spring and then August. Why? Because all of June and July we have so many damn mosquitos!! The snow melt makes my property flood, all that standing water = OMG mosquito territory. I increase my garlic intake 10 fold during those months...but now here we are August, water receded in Early July and now maybe one mosquito a week ....

You can do it! I am there to help you! (in spirit)

 

[gmanpaint]

Ugh! Skeeters are the seeds of the devil himself. They exist for no good reason!!

I just made a slide bar out of angle Iron to assist in shock install. Notched one end of a 2 ft pc, then covered one side with slick tape.

Idea is to fit the tab end on the lower lip between tabs, then compress the shock by lifting the angle, and slide the eyelet in place. Can use the leverage to hold the shock at height, then place the bolt spacers in, and push the eyelet the rest of the way to push the bolt in.
Can't use zips as the tops have to bolt in first. Good idea tho!

 

[gmanpaint]

The leverage idea worked like a charm. Can't believe I didn't think of it before. Made install a breeze. 20 mins, and both installed, and no damage done to me. Lol

Time for a spin around the hood, and see how the leafs settle. Right now shocks are at 60/40, with dr side a bit more of extension. Anything more than 50/50 after settle is no good, and might have to change the eyelets to shorter 1" versions.

 

[BKennedy]

You guys beat me to it, I was going to suggest a small ratchet strap, big zip-ties or leverage bar. With the Bilsteins I used to run in the back, I would mount the bottom first because its easier to pull down to than push up to compress the shocks. They probably didn't push back as hard as your Foxes, but its more awkward than strength trying to compress a shock and feed in a bolt. I would also get them close to lined up, then run the bolts in with my 1/4" drive impact.

 

[gmanpaint]

The stock setup would be best to do it that way, but these have the pin bar eliminators on the top, and 2 small spacers on either side of the lower eyelet. have to hold those in place while positioning the eyelet to pass the bolt thru. Crazy stupid PITA! I did find a set of rubber bushings made by Off Road Warehouse just for the Fox shocks. Might try them some day, and never have to deal with those spacers again. lol

Ok, so I am trying to find a master brake cylinder for this damn thing today, for install tomorrow. No luck yet. Called Ford, said they are discontinued from Motorcraft, and no specific info was available. So aftermarket hunting is proving to be a royal PITA.

The port sizes on these are different. I searched this thread, and found info I posted on this years ago.

"Special Note for later:
Only metric fitting left on the system is at the front line connection on the master. M12x1.0x3/16" line. All other fittings are 3/16"-24, and take a 3/8" wrench. Soft lines use a 14mm to the line fittings. Hard lines have long fitting at the soft line connection, and short fitting at the master/J-T."

So the aftermarkets are offering versions with/with out prop valve, with/without cruise, or a combo. I need with cruise, and w/o prop valve. The only ones I have found so far, have both metric ports. Instead of the 3/16-24, they have an M10x1.0. Asked if they have brake lines with the M10x1.0 nuts on them, or if they have the nuts loose, and nope, don't have em. WTF? Aftermarket sucks sometimes.

Back to the hunt!

Edit:

Found one from Napa, and can have it by end of day! Woot! Figures I open my mouth, and minutes later I find one. lol

Edit #2:

Less than 24 hours and the rig is back on jack stands. 12 ton stands under the front frame rails. Beefy!

Discovered a brand new leak after front Dr side wheel removal. Red fluids down the control arm, and dripping onto the drive. So many leaks since this thing has returned. I'm hoping it is just a line to the rack. It's wet above the piston casing, so that tells me it's not the inner seal, on that side of the ram. Thank Gawd for that at least. It's so damn tight in there I can barely even see the lines at the rack, let alone get a line wrench onto them. That big ass skid is in the way, but no time to deconstruct the entire front suspension to remove it. Yes, that has to be done to get it off. PITA but it has saved me a few times, so I deal with it.

Then took a good look at the Dr side CV axle, and even tho it has barely any miles on it, it is a few years old, and kinda showing it in the boots. That's getting replaced while I am at it. Picking up another to replace my new spare here shortly.

Also removed the red shock boots I had Cough...... "protecting".....Cough.... the HD Inner TRE's. Been meaning to do that ever since safety inspections last fall. LOL

Edit #3:

Picked up the new Master from Napa. Online info wasn't correct as far as the rear port #2. It is indeed a M10x1.0. They didn't have any conversion nuts or lines.

Picked up the new CV axle from Orielly. While there, I found a 6" M10x1.0 Male to 3/16"-24 Male conversion line. This will work by replacing the line from the master to the Prop valve. I might have to move the prop valve closer to the master for it to reach, and hopefully I can.

Rock Auto hit me yet once again. The front brake hoses are not for this rig. No idea what they are for, but definitely not for this application. since RA is an automated robot, and there is no one to complain too, and they list these as a fit, I don't know what to do about it. Price I pay for trying to save a buck online!

I found a set of Raybesto's Pro grade fronts in my spare parts stash box. One is brand new, and one looks like it was installed, then removed. No idea why, can't remember. LOL Going to use them anyways.

USPS delivered the new Dr side Rear E-brake cable this evening. Looks like I got everything I need to get this job going in the Morning. Even got a couple of brake line plugs when I do the caliper swap. Never used them before, but hell, only $0.50/ea, why not? LOL

Rear rotors are already installed, and missing from the pile below.

Master is in the vice, waiting to be bench bled. I have my work cut out for me tomorrow. Praying for cooler temps, and no Zika infection!

 

[gmanpaint]

Managed to get the front brakes done, and change the Dr side CV axle today.

Rain is about to descend upon my noggin, and will have to wait until the morning for the rears, and master swap.

I don't know what it is with Ford, and the brake fittings all being different sizes. Just crazy the way they mix them all up in sizes. I thought the master taking both Metric & SAE was nuts, but the front hard lines have 2 diff size line nuts on them. Dr is 3/8", and pass is 13mm.

So while I had the CV axle out, I had more room to look around for that power steering leak cause. I was able to see it is above the line fittings at the rack, but can't see where it's leaking from. Ugh.

I discovered the rear main seal is also leaking too. Ugh x2!

And for the final discovery while poking around....

Who needs all the AC mount bolts anyways? Ugh x3!

The gift that just keeps giving. Things like that has me nervous, about trusting the rig for a long journey, as reliabilty is what it's supposed to be built for. I guess I need to carry spare nuts & bolts too. SMH

 

[traveler]

I know the feeling. Little Eddie hasn't been a daily driver for quite a while. And hasn't pulled the camper since Big Ed came along. Workin on making sure that the Explorer stays cool on the trip there and back. Not as worried about while I'm there. Hasn't presented any problems on the trails here 8n the desert, so should be ok in the mountains.

 

[gmanpaint]

Well, a complete engine/drivetrain has been swapped since the last trip out. Anybody following this thread for the last few years, would know all that happened, and why I feel a bit nervous. It only has a few cross state trips under it's belt, and nothing over 4 hours at a time. It will be driven hard for 2 weeks straight with a few thousand miles starting next week. LOL

Anyways.... I worked in the rain, and got the rear calipers/pad/lines installed. It slowed raining when I finished them, and turned into a nice swamp like climate, with skeeters the size of hummingbirds. Left the wheels off the rear, so I can attack that PITA E-brake cable on the dr side. I hate hate hate taking that end off the lever with a passion. Can take 2 mins, or 2 hours. It's always a fight for me.

My pedal pumping helper went MIA on me, for tomorrow's bleeding service. I will try the gravity bleed after the master install, then try the mightyvac, then probably throw a lit match to the rig, when they won't bleed.

Edit:
Found a new helper for the brake bleed tomorrow.

 

[410Fortune]

She will reward you! I'm getting good vibes for this trip

The 8.8 e brake setup has been the bane of my existence a time or five.....I've gotten quite good at them, even bought a special drum brake tool to help me with those little springs...makes life easier.... You can do it! Gravity bleed overnight is a great idea, leave those bleeders open and let the fluid work its own way through

 

[Brian1]

Are we going to have to have someone follow both of us on the trail to pick up the bolts that keep falling out?

 

[gmanpaint]

You jinked me Brian!

I really need some help from you all on my brakes, like STAT! Any questions, thoughts, or suggestions are very much wanted!

We attempted to bleed the brakes today. Same sh*t as before with the 4.0L. The only different thing between them is the booster got swapped to a 5.0L unit. I didn't do it, so I don't have any details on it.

Bled with engine off, & it gets a firm pedal at the top, and holds.

Start the engine, and pedal drops about 3/4 when pushing on it, and eventually hits the floor after about 10 seconds.

Bled it with engine on a few more times, no air in the system, but pedal still drops, is spongy, and will drop all the way when constant pressure is applied. A half filled bottle of fluid was used with a tube to the bleeders. Bleeder closed quickly, to prevent air going back in, and each was bled until no air bubbles, In proper order. RR-RL-FR-FL.

Just Replaced:
Bench bled Master - 4 new calipers- all new soft lines, no leaks.

Only things I can think of is:

1) The prop valve seal is bad, and sucking in air, even tho it shows no signs of fluid leaking.

2) The pushrod behind the booster is not set right. With engine on, the pedal drops 3/4 before you feel any back pressure. (opposite with engine off and pumped back up)

Questions:
A) If I simply remove the aftermarket prop valve, and just use a union to tie that line together, and run without any prop valve, I wonder if the rears will lock up easily?

B) Can I unbolt the master, pull it forward (lines still on/system closed), remove the brake booster, and try to adjust the rod?

C) Does the rod adjust from under the dash, by removing the pedal assembly?

I'm so frustrated with this damn brake system on this truck over the last 10 years, it isn't even funny any longer. I will cancel the trip, if I can't get a decent pedal in the next 2 days. Not worth loss of life & property.

 

[CDW6212R]

Start with the MC to booster pushrod. That has to be adjusted properly to provide the right pressure from none to full pedal effort. I'd bet they just stuck it all together without considering the pushrod clearance. Hopefully that's all it needs. Without any evidence of leaking, I'd leave the prop valve in place and try the MC R&R first.

Have you ever seen any excessive material in the bled brake fluid, contamination that might foul something like the ABS, MC or prop valve etc? Clean fluid helps and prevents a lot.

 

[gmanpaint]

Abs has been deleted, and the reason for the aftermarket prop valve.

I need to research a bit on how to access the rod. Can't remember, its been so long since I did the manual pedal swap, and had the booster off.

 

[Brian1]

Yes, separate the M/C from the booster without disconnecting anything else. The adjustment is then done to the rod sticking out of the booster that goes to the M/C. Since it is so bad maybe go 2 turns at first then put everything back together. Make sure brakes aren't dragging first (went to far) by jacking up a front wheel and spinning by hand before testing it out. You may want to get a reference point and do that first to see what it feels like.

Your problem sounds just like the brake problems that plague the OBS and early Superduties. Some people report turning out the pushrod is a night and day difference. Some people have also gone through 2 or 3 M/Cs before finding one that worked properly so it could potentially be a bad M/C out of the box

 

[gmanpaint]

Ok, cool.

This is master #5. Pretty sure its something else.

Will have a go at the rod and see if it helps or not.

Still confused on why it pumps up with engine off tho. Ugh

 

[CDW6212R]

That pumping up with the engine off is not a good indicator of anything. The engine running is what matters, it does sound like the rod, booster, or MC that you are on #5. I bet you will get it fixed with the rod adjustment.

 

[gmanpaint]

Ok, just got the new E brake cable on. Decided to just cut the cable on the old one. End came right off without the cable on it. Had to do this first before the wheels went back in so I can move the rig blocking the middle of the garage. Lol

So before I do this rod adjustment, I just want to make sure I'm understanding this.

1) pull master off of booster and reveal the rod end.

2) turn the rod 2 full turns, and try the pedal.

Questions because I'm tired, stressed and at wits end, so please excuse me.

A) which way is out for the rod? Counter clockwise?

B) if this brings the pedal back up, and has back pressure at the top of the stroke, but then pedal still drops while holding foot pressure, then delete/swap the prop valve?

Lol, I'm a mess sorry. I really really dont want to call my son, and tell him the trip is cancelled due to his old man not being able to fix his brakes.

 

[Rick]

Counterclockwise is out. You can go too far. If you do it will drag the rear brakes. I do it with the rear tires off the ground so I can rotate them by hand to check for drag.