5.0 2to4wd 4406 and tons

[Scotts96sploder]

Do you have the autolamp mirror?

A center mirror that auto adjusts? No, and the stock one fell off
So looks like I found the problem. Not sure if this box was in the stock location but where it was allowed it to just fill with water. Probably would have been fine if it wasn’t salt water. I might go cut one of these out at the yard as a backup for the future. For now I’m just going to put it back in a more protected location, and make wrap it in something.

Rumor is I can just cut a leg off one of these relays to stop the high beam off thing right?

 

[410Fortune]

Yikes!
I believe that is aux relay box 2 on the diagrams
I’ll pull it up and we can see what’s what

Is that near the drivers/pass headlight somewhere?

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Yeah it’s the box on the passenger side under where the stock intake would be. I soaked it with a half a can of contact cleaner till it was pouring out and then replaced the relays with a little silicone. Everything is working but it would be cool to flash high beams without losing the fogs. I’ve been meaning to read through the like 7 threads about it but they don’t have a clear answer. In theory if it doesn’t get the signal from the high beam, it doesn’t shut off right? So just cut off that pin

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Got me a new issue.

Buddy hydro locked his v8 sequoia an hour away and needed pulled out to the tow truck. So I went and got him.

Cruise control totally still works! And it was amazing just chillin at 71 mph for about 30 minutes. The light stopped working on the way home, but whatever it still works. Not the problem.

So it started pushing trans fluid out of the dip stick tube, and not from the breather. Temperature never went about 140° on the return and that was at low speed, it was about 110° on the highway. Everything seems to be working fine so have I somehow had this thing overfilled the whole time and it was just hidden because I haven’t given far? The stick has always read slightly over full, but it hasn’t been an issue. I’m wondering if maybe my breather could be clogged? It currently just a hose that runs up into the engine bay. Can I just maybe blow into it to confirm it’s working? What else could cause it to push up the tube and not the breather? I would think it would come out of the breather first since it’s slightly lower than the tube.

 

[410Fortune]

Yes you can blow into the breather and see if it’s clear
It’s just a case vent
Often shared with the transfer case breather… I like to separate them

Check fluid level at temp in park on level ground while running
A plugged vent will for sure have the trans looking for a new way to vent pressure


Nice work! That would be awesome to cruise on highway with 40’s lol

 

[Scotts96sploder]

I decided to make the AC work today, pulled a vacuum and got in a rush it pulled down to 28 and stayed there for a bit with the pump off so I called it good. Ended up throwing about 36oz at the thing which I’m pretty sure is too much but it’s blowing around 48° and it’s 80°+ ambient. Goodnuf, probably leak down to where it needs to be lol.

While I was at it I checked the trans fluid level more carefully, like I said it’s always read over full. Thought I would try to drain some from the plug into and clean milk jug with a long funnel so I could measure and potentially reuse it. Well I dropped the plug into the tall funnel on the first try so my driveway got an unknown amount That got it to register on the white part of the stick so I dropped a bit more and now it’s in the cold section (it was cold). I only test drove down to the grocery store, really to feel the AC, it didn’t puke any. Didn’t think about blowing in the vent till later and it pushes air back out the dip stick tube so that seems good. Also I do have it separated from the transfer case.

Tomorrow I’m going to fix the window washer pump, figure out it was a bad pump, just reusing the pump from the back. I think I want to make an aluminum reservoir with dual pumps, maybe something bigger, run to each nozzle individually. Are the pumps from trucks larger, like from an f250?

 

[410Fortune]

30oz is full fill for a 5.0 ac perfect lol

Trans can’t be overfull, not good for them!!
Level is checked at temp in park while running

Full size trucks use same washer pump
As far as I know, the difference is just the connectors to the fluid lines

 

[Scotts96sploder]

So this 3rd brake light, I don’t think it’s ever worked. I’ve had this idea to gut it and fabricobble 3 LED marker lights inside to make it look stock but then have 3 markers like a big rig. I want 3 amber up front at some point also.
Anyway I took it apart and realized that ain’t gonna happen, so here’s the plan:
Going to make an inlay to fit the recess, probably from aluminum by maybe steel, that will bolt to 2 of the mounting holes from the outside with riv-nuts and then hold my 3 markers.
It’s going to need some standoff, and I just got laid off so I don’t have access to a tig machine atm. So probably just steel and paint it, use some kind of tube for the standoffs and probably just weld the extra holes shut. I still have to make sure I have power back there

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Trying to beat the rain today.

Decided to go steel, quick and dirty because I can always do this again later. Just fit this piece of 1/8 into the recess and zapped some 1/4-20 all thread on there. That will act as and adjustment to make it flush, and the hold down. Need to add a standoff on the bottom and some gasket on the top.
Ordered a 10 pack of 3/4 TBT red marker lights, plan is to use the existing wiring for the brake, and I’ll run a marker wire from the driver side brake light so this will do both. Also thinking of instead of filling the holes from the trim on the corners, just make it bigger and wire two markers in as secondary markers/signals.
This will get painted black after I get it to fit a little better.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Well the brake like part works now, and looks cooler imo. I’ve got 5 lights up there, and I still need to wire them all to running light power. I think I’m going to wire the outside ones to the turn signal also.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

So the first time I’ve ever set the hood down and didn’t latch the pins with also be the last time I ever do that
Yeah my hood ballooned after it stood straight up. Luckily it didn’t break the windshield, but it did bend up the cowl, smashed the wiper arms, broke the sprayers I just fixed, mangled the hinges, and broke the cowl grill a little.
Ran down to the yard and grabbed the hinges off a white 00 and the hood off a black 00 thinking I wouldn’t need to paint the inside…. Definitely painting the inside… I’ve already had it on and straight, mounted the hood pins, and pulled it back apart for paint.
I see the grill can be had on cramazon for $100, but I’m thinking I might try to make some from metal. I want to upgrade the sprayers anyway. Anyone down anything like that?
These damage photos are after I already jumped on the hood and straightened the cowl hammer and dolly style. Oh and the new hood is getting a sticker bomb

 

[410Fortune]

I’m guilty
My bii cowl was never the same
I went back and added the factory safety latch… gutted the cable

Want to hear about how I drove through our gate with the drivers door open and my leg hanging out, only to hit the gate and slam the drivers door closed over my leg? That was a good one.. cost me a door and a window and some serious cuts and bruises
Once it slammed shut over my leg, I couldn’t get the door open, had to bust the window and use the external handle… cut up my arm really good. Could not believe the door folded around my leg and my leg was actually okay. I was paying attention to
My neighbor who lives down at the gate, man I have driven through the gate 100
Times that way. Get out, open gate, hop in bronco, put her in drive, drive through gate, hop out, close gate. Drive on….
Well that day the gate swung closed as I was going through and hit the drivers door slammed it around my leg.
Needless to say I no longer let one leg dangle while moving
Neighbor was of no help by the time he heard me screaming to come over and help I already had busted the glass as for the door open…. What a
Mess

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Turns out you can’t put bolts all the way through the layers of the hatch, it flexes the inside enough to pull the metal there away from the gasket. I think these 1/4-20 nut will fit through the hole but not a tool, so I’ll woller that out a little and make this work. The glass gasket in conjunction with the little foam gasket I put across the top of the light plate are enough to stop a pressure washer if anyone is interested in doing something similar. I’ll get a picture of the inside when I take it apart to fix this problem.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Been wheeling a on and off daily driving this thing. Driver front caliper decided to hang so I ended up replacing both. Still getting the P0500 when in 4low, which goes away once I start driving somewhat normal or in 4/2hi. But recently it started flashing OD off whenever I’m driving slow or sometimes at a stop. It will go away as soon as I start driving normal. It’s hot right now so in traffic the rerun temp is around 140°. Pulled codes and I’ve also got P0712 and P0713. So that’s a little confusing other than a bad sensor which should keep the light on steady right? Anyhoo I cleared the codes so I can see what comes up on the way home tonight.

 

[410Fortune]

712 and 713 trans temp circuit issues… something up with the wire going to the sensor, it’s a circuit issue not a temp issue
The sensor itself could be bad? It’s inside the pan
I would be more suspect of the wiring to and from it


P0500 this can be a tough one to solve, the 5.0 pcm seems to have this issue a lot when we do these conversions big tires etc. I would have to go back through this thread and see what we have going on

A 96 5.0 Is a simple machine it had a gear driven speed sensor in the t case from the factory that was responsible for feeding the pcm the dash and cruise control with 8000 pulses per mile. The abs system used its own wheel speed sensors. So the p0500 means something is not happy… interesting that it goes away and comes back…
A Dakota digital maybe required to get the speed sensor signal closer to the 8000 pulses per mile the pcm wants to see due to your ginormous tires

 

[Scotts96sploder]

712 and 713 trans temp circuit issues… something up with the wire going to the sensor, it’s a circuit issue not a temp issue
The sensor itself could be bad? It’s inside the pan
I would be more suspect of the wiring to and from it


P0500 this can be a tough one to solve, the 5.0 pcm seems to have this issue a lot when we do these conversions big tires etc. I would have to go back through this thread and see what we have going on

A 96 5.0 Is a simple machine it had a gear driven speed sensor in the t case from the factory that was responsible for feeding the pcm the dash and cruise control with 8000 pulses per mile. The abs system used its own wheel speed sensors. So the p0500 means something is not happy… interesting that it goes away and comes back…
A Dakota digital maybe required to get the speed sensor signal closer to the 8000 pulses per mile the pcm wants to see due to your ginormous tires

I forgot to mention my theory on that. I used 16 ga wire to make a harness from the Dakota to the speed sensor that runs through the dash and over the trans. I just twisted them together so I’m wondering if it’s not picking up or creating its own interference. Plan is to make new wiring, individually insulated when I drop the trans to change the breather line I’m not too worried about that one, the temp one freaked me out.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Drove home in traffic yesterday, 90° ambient, OD off every time I was going really slow which was a lot. Drove to work 70°~ no warnings. Pulled codes and I’ve only got the high temp.
Going to watch live data on the way home. Should I be watching ETC, TFT or maybe the TFT (v)? I think I can get them all on the same screen.

 

[410Fortune]

Coolant temp and trans temp good gauges to have hahaha those are the two I watch the most along with oil pressure hahahaha

I have autometer gauges in my bii back in 2005 there was no “scan gauge” and the like no Dakota digital either… things much better these days! Technology is awesome

My trans temp barely
Moves unless it’s really hot out then usually 160-180 is the hottest it has seen, water temp gets to 220 or so I get nervous 230 I pull over… I need a larger radiator

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Coolant temp and trans temp good gauges to have hahaha those are the two I watch the most along with oil pressure hahahaha

I have autometer gauges in my bii back in 2005 there was no “scan gauge” and the like no Dakota digital either… things much better these days! Technology is awesome

My trans temp barely
Moves unless it’s really hot out then usually 160-180 is the hottest it has seen, water temp gets to 220 or so I get nervous 230 I pull over… I need a larger radiator

I have those gauges separately from the system because I don’t trust the factory gauges. Anyway I guess TFT will probably show me internal temperature on the drive home.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Live data on the way home was fun.
Initial fire up voltage jumping everywhere, temp reading anywhere from 30-8022°. (Not a typo)
Diving normal it goes away, my return gauge reading anywhere from 25-40° less than the steady temperature. As soon as I slow down the voltage pegs at 5.20 and temp reads 8k°. It doesn’t always flash the code when this is happening, so there must be a time limit before it’s triggered. Heavy traffic it pretty much stayed flashing, the intermittent actual temp as far as I could tell was 200°~ with my rerun never going over 140°.
Get back to the house and idle for a bit just to see and it was reading high voltage 4.5~5.2v and the temp jumping between impossible low numbers 1-30° and impossibly high in the thousands with moments of believable.
I was thinking wiring at first but I assume this voltage read out is voltage drop, with the 5.2 just indicating an open, but then what’s causing the super low numbers other than the sensor?