1997 Ford Explorer - V8 - 5.0 - AWD

[CDW6212R]

You have the GT40 heads(96-97.5 302), so the later GT40P head manifolds won't work for you.

 

[Spudhut]

Bummer!

 

[CDW6212R]

Good job on the BW4406, I wish I had the motivation to go get another one. I'd like one of those shields to that seem to only come on the manual version, that plastic piece over the front output.

 

[Spudhut]

If your referring to the round cover over the the front output it's metal.

@CDW6212R - next time I go out there, Ill keep my open for one and pull it for you.

 

[Turdle]

What is the manufacture date of your 97? It should be on the door.

 

[CDW6212R]

If your referring to the round cover over the the front output it's metal.

@CDW6212R - next time I go out there, Ill keep my open for one and pull it for you.

Thanks, no rush, just another item of my long JY list. It should be enjoyable to go to a JY if you can do it in decent weather with no stress. My friend and I try to go a couple of times a year, even just to look around and see old cars we liked.

I assumed you have an early 97 from the glimpse I saw of your EGR elbow. The top of the elbow on GT40 302's is perfectly flat, while GT40P 302's has a curved top, and the EGR pipe going to the manifold below.

 

[Spudhut]

MFD Date: 08/96

Early build...im sure is limited for add-ons?

There's a U-Pull-It next town over from my house and minutes from my work (same one). I like to go there on my lunch break and look through all the Explorers and other cars, pulling all the good stuff (especially Add-on's I can put on my Ex). I read the forums at work so I get lots of ideas!

 

[Spudhut]

Quick Update - Now that I got it running good. I started collecting parts for my SAS - Coil buckets and truss for XJ D30 are finally in hand. 7" ZJ Coil springs are on the way by recommendation by @2TimingTom. Going to pull Ford Steering box this weekend and Heims/brackets/Tubing are sourced, just waiting on funds.

Having used forums for many years - I understand searching for info, but I'm having a heck of a time looking for some 3 link information. I have tried Pirate4x4 and this site, but to no avail cant find much 'useful' info/pictures (Photobucket isnt helping much either). Plus, on the other hand, there is so much info - especially on Pirate4x4, it gets so convoluted; my brain hurts. I realize its not rocket science. I have downloaded 3&4 link calculators, looked at graphs...Info for other trucks....OMG!

I'm not looking to build a rock climbing rig. I will be driving on the street and off-road. Maybe some hill climbing, respectable flex abilities but nothing extreme. If anyone has a link to some 'pre-designed' information (angles and measurements and photos too!) for these trucks that I can follow and use as a rule of thumb; that would be helpful.

Thanks!

 

[96eb96]

For the 97 4R70W Trans, when you drop the trans pan:
Replace the 1-2 accumulator and spring. Just comes out with snap ring pliers, support the accumulator so it don't pop.

Perform this TSB if you plan on keeping it:

http://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/tranny/accumulators/tsb971111.pdf

It is also critical you have a clean fill of Mercon V. Nothing else. Pump it out the cooler as others said.

 

[fastpakr]

For the 97 4R70W Trans, when you drop the trans pan:
Replace the 1-2 accumulator and spring. Just comes out with snap ring pliers, support the accumulator so it don't pop.

Perform this TSB if you plan on keeping it:

http://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/tranny/accumulators/tsb971111.pdf

It is also critical you have a clean fill of Mercon V. Nothing else. Pump it out the cooler as others said.

Do you know if there are any TSB's for the later 4R70W's? I haven't done very well in looking that up.

 

[96eb96]

Do you know if there are any TSB's for the later 4R70W's? I haven't done very well in looking that up.

Nothing major comes to mind.

 

[Spudhut]

@96eb96

Is there a preferred parts you recommend? Ill certainly peform that replacement.

AOD AODE 4R70W Steel Bonded Rubber Accumulator Kit 1-2 2-3 With 3 Springs New HD | eBay

 

[96eb96]

@96eb96

Is there a preferred parts you recommend? Ill certainly peform that replacement.

AOD AODE 4R70W Steel Bonded Rubber Accumulator Kit 1-2 2-3 With 3 Springs New HD | eBay

Looks very good, I bought mind from Ford, but who knows if they even have the springs. Ford dealer maybe be the same or less. I know trucks use the pink spring, not sure how much of a difference it makes, but it affects the shift feel (a car may be softer). I'm sure that kit would do.

 

[CDW6212R]

Do you know if there are any TSB's for the later 4R70W's? I haven't done very well in looking that up.

The 98+ 4R70W's are very solid units, only about 2001 did Ford change something in the VB that created a new weakness issue, and the "TSB" is to replace the VB plate with a thicker one, or add back the small reinforcement plate that Ford eliminated. Sonnax sells both ways to correct that.

The 97 and older 4R's have unsealed DTRS sensors, the range sensor. It's possible for moisture to effect them over time, so it's always wise to replace those. The accumulators have updated versions, always replace those. Sonnax is an excellent source for almost anything needed beyond the basic rebuild parts, which are all great already.

 

[CDW6212R]

The J-Mod is a cool upgrade to perform on any 4R trans, but it's not documented very well for the trucks. The hole choices, and springs, are kind of a guess for our trucks. Some have done it but not posted what holes and springs they drilled/used. I researched it quite a bit last year, but didn't have time then to go at it. After I fix my 99 truck, then I can begin work to my 98 again.

 

[WhiteLX]

Is there a build date at which the transmission was improved? I have an early 98 that was manufactured in 97.
I was going to go with this with the predrilled factory plate so I know the JMod was done correctly since the trucks are slightly different. BCA DIY AODE, 4R70W, 4R75W AND 4R70E JMOD KIT 1996- PRESENT . It also makes the installation easier and quicker for me.

 

[CDW6212R]

The change happened with the 1998 model year, not during a model year. The J-Mod affects each different Ford model differently, it'll be close from one to another. That kit should get you in the ball park, get the other parts along with that(solenoids, accumulators etc).

 

[Spudhut]

Fix Update:

I went to local JY and picked up a 'new' latch for rear door and front door window regulator.

~The locking mechanism on the original latch was Gunky and binding badly to the point where I could not open the door. I even had my hands in the door pulling different rods to get the darn thing to budge...What a pain!! Replacement was easy. 3 screws on the outside and popping a few rods off for clearance. It was just a pain to squeeze that thing in and out of place with all the rods dangling from it! The good thing about Junk Yards, your able to learn how to remove and/or install on their cars before you do your own.

Install time took about 30 min.

~Good working electric window regulator was installed. I always bring my cordless drill with me in case I might need to use it and I can use the battery to test electrical parts like window motors to ensure they are working properly onsite rather than finding out when you get home.

For all that don't know, Ford uses (3) rivets and (2) nuts to hold the unit in place. I used a small drill bit to remove the rivet heads and popped the body through the door skin. To remove the regulator from the glass, I used a large screwdriver and pried the glass off the (2) glass retainer clips on the upper channel. (don't remove your clips on YOUR vehicle this way, this is to just get the glass off so you can get the regulator out to take home)

To install, I drilled out and removed the rivets from my original broken unit and loosened the nuts from door holding it in place (dont remove them just yet).

I Drilled out and removed (2) rivets on upper channel holding the glass retainers in place. (there is a pre-punched hole in the door you can insert your drill bit through if you lower the window enough This will allow you to separate the regulator from the glass retainer clips. The holes in the upper channel that were holding the regulator clips are just the right size for a 7/16 x 1/4" x 1/2" long bolt and nut. I used lock-tite on the nuts just to make sure they don't come loose.

Prep 'new' regulator for install to receive your original glass retainer clips in the door. Install the new regulator and bolt in place. Where the rivets were, use the bolts listed above. It's a simple swap out, just watch your fingers when installing the regulator and rolling the unit up and down.

Install time took me about 30 min.


Sure is gratifying to fix these issues! One more regulator to fix on passenger side and all the doors will done!

 

[WormsExplorer]

Like your EX. The color is a nice color. I will be following your build.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's the dark green I think was also on a few Limited's then. I'm going to repain ym green 99 that color next year, after replacing the hatch and bumper, fill the sunroof hole, the LF door etc. This is the 93/94 dark green color I have it know, called Dark Tourmaline Pearl. I'm ready for a little color change.