1999 Mounty 5.0 aka My Great Bad Idea

[Turdle]

I'm sure you've wiggled it a lot yes? Could be a good strip of sealant on rear china .wall hanging you up?

 

[Turdle]

If upward pressure can be maintained, a punch and hammer in suspect bolt holes might pop it free.

 

[97Sandbox]

I'm sure you've wiggled it a lot yes? Could be a good strip of sealant on rear china .wall hanging you up?

Yeah, I wiggled a lot and the manifold came free from the block. When I lift it from the front, I feel it binding on the two bolt shanks in the back -- obviously I don't want to snap those because I'll need all I can get to weld/clamp onto. I'll try the punch if the lifting bar doesn't work on its own.

 

[97Sandbox]

Finally got back to work on the Mounty after a weekend visiting family.

Pulling off the lower intake was rough. I tried everything I could come up with to lift it off. I was eventually able to work it free from the rear left bolt, but the rear right snapped off. It's completely fused to the manifold. That means I have two decent chunks of bolt sticking out to weld to and one broken bolt that will have to be drilled/extracted -- of course that's the one by the firewall and trans dipstick that I can't get a straight shot at with the drill.

Does it make more sense to just pull the heads at this point? I don't see how else I'll stand a chance at getting that bolt out.

 

[410Fortune]

Pulling the heads is a great idea
Gives you a chance to do the head gaskets and bolts as well as valve stem seals (leak point on higher mile 5.0). Plus heads will be on the bench much easier to attack manifold bolts and new gaskets.
It is basically your only shot if getting to this bolt without yanking the engine

 

[97Sandbox]

Anything special I need to know besides keeping rockers and pushrods in order? Chilton manual said loosen each bolt one quarter turn at a time in reverse of tightening sequence. Seems straightforward enough, but this is my first time pulling heads and I don't want to mess anything up!

 

[CDW6212R]

You don't need to organize the rockers or pushrods, or the roller lifters. Everything you get access to should be considered for condition and replacement. For high mileage, do the lifters for sure, pushrods and rockers sometimes can be reused. The prior care of the engine(oil, filters, and quality), determines whether any of those parts are almost unhurt, or junk. With the heads off, then it's logical to have them fully serviced, new guides, springs, seals, valve job etc.

I have three 98 302 2nd gen's, my Mountaineer never used much oil at all, but my two 98 Limited both eat oil fast. The prior owners obviously used lesser oil and went too long between changes, the guides and seals are trash I'm sure, the rings and cylinders probably show lots of wear too. I look forward to pulling my project 98's engine to swap with my low mileage 1992 302 HO engine(shortblock), just to get to rebuild the old heads and stop the oil waste.

 

[410Fortune]

The pedestal
Mount valvetrain is tooooooo easy! I love it

Re install is pretty simple
The rocker studs get torqued to 24 ft lbs with the valves closed. I basically do all 16 in 3 steps..finger tight, then 12 ft lbs, then 24 ft lbs. I rotate the engine over by hand at least 4 complete cycles and check the 24 ft lbs torque on all 16 about 4 times
Takes minutes

Lifters and cam synchronizer get cleaned and soaked in oil while out…the lifters oil port points towards the valley on re install
Dip each pushrod in clean oil and i oil the tip of each valve and end of rockers

Then torque as above, done

I also recommend new valve stem seals, felpro latest high heat ones work awesome. Harbor freight has valve spring tool $49 or you can rent one

 

[410Fortune]

These


6 Pack 2 Inch Bristle Disc Grit 50# 80# 120# with 1/4" Shank Attachment Abrasive Coating Removal Disc for Metal (6, 2 inch)

https://a.co/d/2OJK6gj

Are
Life savers for cleaning all gaskets, especially the head gaskets

You need new head bolts they are tty

 

[97Sandbox]

Thanks guys. I was planning to do the valve stem seals already, so I have the FelPro seals and valve spring compressor already. I'll take a close look at everything and post some pics for your input before I start buying/replacing valvetrain components. I have head bolts, but I think only one box so I'll order another.

With the heads off, then it's logical to have them fully serviced, new guides, springs, seals, valve job etc.

To this point, how much sense does it make to consider going ahead and replacing the heads? I've been looking at the Edelbrock E-Street and Flo-Tek heads. They seem like great bang for the buck but I guess they need upgraded (stud-mount) rockers and taller valve covers too -- then suddenly a roughly $1000 upgrade becomes a $2000+ upgrade...

 

[Turdle]

Honestly, the stock heads are not that bad, actually desired by some guys out there. They should be good for 350 hp, and. You won't open a can of worms

I see it costing ya at least 10 chicken coops

 

[97Sandbox]

Fingers crossed I can extract all the broken bolts then!

One last thing, do you all recommend removing the heater box to get better access to the right head's bolts? They look accessible as-is, but not the easiest.

 

[Turdle]

Yeah, that heater box is why most pull the engine, but I do think you can work around it by removing it.


You might be able to get to the other end of the bolts once the heads are removed. Vice grips might be used to just turn them to pull them all the way through

 

[Turdle]

For the exhaust manifold bolts, tap your wrench with a hammer just till they move, then tap it back, then repeat going further each time until you are confident they are coming out good. Sounds time consuming but compared to the alternative it's not.

 

[97Sandbox]

Yeah, that heater box is why most pull the engine, but I do think you can work around it by removing it.

Sounds good. I need to take a closer look, I've never pulled one of these heater boxes, but don't imagine it'll be bad compared to everything else hahaha.

You might be able to get to the other end of the bolts once the heads are removed. Vice grips might be used to just turn them to pull them all the way through

I can feel the underside of the bolt hole in front even without removing the heads so I definitely think I'll be able to spray penetrant in there with the heads off. The bolts themselves aren't sticking out though.

For the exhaust manifold bolts, tap your wrench with a hammer just till they move, then tap it back, then repeat going further each time until you are confident they are coming out good. Sounds time consuming but compared to the alternative it's not.

I'll give that technique a try. The one stud I already broke snapped with very little force though, so I'm not holding my breath the others will come easily.

 

[Josh P]

I feel like you'll have the oil pan off before this project is complete.

 

[97Sandbox]

I sure hope not, but at the rate I'm going probably.

 

[97Sandbox]

Had a productive night! I welded nuts onto the two studs that had some length sticking out of the head. The back one snapped off, but the front one came out.

I welded bolts to what's left on the back two broken studs and will try them tonight.

Also shoutout to @Turdle for the exhaust manifold bolt method. I'm six for six so far (need to take off the heat shield to get the last bolt on the right head).

 

[410Fortune]

Good stuff!

Heater box removal is a big huge pita
It can be done and is done but I avoid it until I can’t anymore

 

[97Sandbox]

I hope the bolt welding technique pans out then I won't have to remove the heads or heater box!