4.0 Remote Turbo Buildup

[Jakee]

and if you flip over, you can use it to start camp fires cuss you ain't going nowhere.

 

[Jakee]

Let's talk boost controllers. I didn't realize that the manual boost controllers are so inexpensive. On the other hand, I found some electronic boost controllers that were way exspinsive. My question is what all is offered with a good electronic boost controller?

For example; The Greddy PROFEC e-01 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GREDDY-PROFEC-e-01-e01-ELECTRONIC-BOOST-CONTROLLER-JDM_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ019QQitemZ290183427746QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Or

http://cgi.ebay.com/Trust-GReddy-Pr...ryZ43807QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


Should I go ahead and plan one of these electronic controllers or just get a manual boost controller?

 

[rocket 5979]

Let's talk boost controllers. I didn't realize that the manual boost controllers are so inexpensive. On the other hand, I found some electronic boost controllers that were way exspinsive. My question is what all is offered with a good electronic boost controller?

For example; The Greddy PROFEC e-01 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GREDDY-PROFEC-e-01-e01-ELECTRONIC-BOOST-CONTROLLER-JDM_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ019QQitemZ290183427746QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Or

http://cgi.ebay.com/Trust-GReddy-Pr...ryZ43807QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


Should I go ahead and plan one of these electronic controllers or just get a manual boost controller?

Jake if I were you I would just stick with a manual boost controller for now; if even that. There is no necessity for a boost controller, electric or manual. Sometimes it is nice to change boost levels at the flip of a switch but it all depends on how much you believe you will be doing that.

The reason the manual boost controllers are so cheap is because all they are is an adjustable pressure differential bleed valve. Very simple piece of equipment.

The reason why the electronic boost controllers are so expensive is because the features they have to have with them in order to control things remotely. The electronic boost controller usually has a manifold pressure sensor (MAP) that will tell you how much boost you are running. An electronic boost gauge in short. It also has an adjustable valve like I mentioned earlier but controlled by an electronic step motor which is in turn controlled by its own internal computer electronics with memory functions to save the boost levels you preset into the memory. Some have more features than this but the above is the overall simple breakdown.

They can get as complicated as:

-Gear based boost mapping. For instance running only 10 psi in first gear then 20 in second and so on once traction has been achieved. Similar principle as a progressive nitrous controller.
-Boost memory functions.
-Overboost alarms.
-Temporary high boost on demand for a preset time period. For when you want to "pass" someone.
-Auto boost drop. If the boost controller senses a problem with over/underboost it can default to a lower and safer boost setting.

 

[Jakee]

So I can mount a sensor on my bumper, and when the sensor picks up that I'm loosing a race, it'll increase boost until I win? Or blow up...



Okay, i'm bored.

 

[Jakee]

Here's a program I downloaded awhile back just to play with. It seems to be okay for looking at older compressor maps (TurboCalc), and you can plot points by RPM. To sum it up, you want as many plotted points in the middle island thru-out the RPM range, so you click thru the different maps until you find the best match. Only thing is the maps are limited in here but it'll give you an idea of how to start figuring things out.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

http://www.turbofast.com.au/freesoftware.html

 

[Jakee]

Marking angles on pipes.

Here's a little tip I learned. When you need a good line for an angle you plan to cut on some pipe, and only have a cut-off wheel to do the job, mark the pipe as best as you can with a sharpie. Then, fill a bucket with some water; add a little die to it; then dip the pipe in at the angle you need. Pull the pipe out and let dry for a minute, then cut away with your cut off tool.

 

[rocket 5979]

Here's a little tip I learned. When you need a good line for an angle you plan to cut on some pipe, and only have a cut-off wheel to do the job, mark the pipe as best as you can with a sharpie. Then, fill a bucket with some water; add a little die to it; then dip the pipe in at the angle you need. Pull the pipe out and let dry for a minute, then cut away with your cut off tool.

You cheater. Been reading on theturboforums hey? I took the faster way out. I just bought a used one year old 14" Dewalt metal chopsaw from Craigslist for a little over $100. It was damn near still new. You would be suprised by how accurate I could cut with that thing once I got a good system down. I got it as accurate to +/- 1 degree. Not bad. The dye method works real well too if you only have a 4.5" grinder with cutoff wheel. With all the cuts that I had to make it would have taken twice as long to do the dye method. Still a pretty smart idea.


The correct dye cutting method (no pun intended) is to mark your long point and short point of the pipe with a sharpie. Then submerge till both your lines are on the water/dye (food coloring) line while making sure the pipe is still held vertical on the other axis. Then take out and let dry. Once dry then trace the line with a sharpie as it is still very hard to see with just the dye. What the dye method really works well for is making and matching merge pipes together. That is something that a chopsaw cannot replace.

 

[Jakee]

Actually, my neighbor showed me how to do it. It's something so simple, yet I've never thought about it. I used to get as close as possible and then grind flat.


Robert - How's the tuning coming with the LS?

 

[rocket 5979]

Actually, my neighbor showed me how to do it. It's something so simple, yet I've never thought about it. I used to get as close as possible and then grind flat.


Robert - How's the tuning coming with the LS?

Oh ok. I just cut mine with the chopsaw then cleaned things up with a little file.

The LS is more or less tuned. I have a slight lean tip in that I wanted to dedicate an hour or two towards but the weather hasn't been agreeing lately.

 

[jah81592]

If you are going to do a boost controller, why don't you keep it simple like the STS style dial boost. A switch,solenoid and a manual boost controller. It is effective and simple. You have the wastegate spring setting and at the flip of a switch you have the amount of boost you determined with the dial. I like mine and have never had a problem with it!

 

[rocket 5979]

If you are going to do a boost controller, why don't you keep it simple like the STS style dial boost. A switch,solenoid and a manual boost controller. It is effective and simple. You have the wastegate spring setting and at the flip of a switch you have the amount of boost you determined with the dial. I like mine and have never had a problem with it!

They are pretty simple. I have one for my TurboLS too; just haven't installed it yet. Some people are satisfied with the simple bare-bones BC's while others want the fancy ones with all the bells and whistles.

 

[jah81592]

I am running 123,987 Torr! I love boost!

 

[Jakee]

Yes, I've decided to just go with a manual boost controller. Nothing fancy needed for me.


The intercooler and piping up front should be going in this week.

 

[justin146]

Yes, I've decided to just go with a manual boost controller. Nothing fancy needed for me.


The intercooler and piping up front should be going in this week.

Good luck with that part. I will be adding a FMIC someday(if no one buys the truck first), but I will have to take alot of the front end apart to do that. You have a little more room under the hood than I do though.

 

[rocket 5979]

I am running 123,987 Torr! I love boost!

Really????????????????????????????????????????????????????

I am running 879 torrs in my Explorer. Only 129 on the LS.

 

[rocket 5979]

Good luck with that part. I will be adding a FMIC someday(if no one buys the truck first), but I will have to take alot of the front end apart to do that. You have a little more room under the hood than I do though.

Justin, if I can fit a decent sized FMIC into the front end of my Lincoln LS then I am sure you can fit a good sized one in the front of your X.

 

[Jakee]

It can be done but It's not going to be easy on my ride. I've already noticed that I may have to go with something smaller. No problem cuss a friend already offered to buy the one I have.

I'll try and get some pics soon.

 

[rocket 5979]

It can be done but It's not going to be easy on my ride. I've already noticed that I may have to go with something smaller. No problem cuss a friend already offered to buy the one I have.

I'll try and get some pics soon.

You got the same one James has, right? What is in the way of fitting it in there?

 

[justin146]

Justin, if I can fit a decent sized FMIC into the front end of my Lincoln LS then I am sure you can fit a good sized one in the front of your X.

The problem isnt fitting the intercooler, it is running the tubing to it. You know how little room there is in the 5.0's engine bay. My intercooler is doing a great job where it is now though

 

[rocket 5979]

The problem isnt fitting the intercooler, it is running the tubing to it. You know how little room there is in the 5.0's engine bay. My intercooler is doing a great job where it is now though

That tubing is pretty small. I am sure it will take a little creativity but I would bet it is doable without too much hassle.