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'94 X-Ploder S.A.S.

building this cheap and with parts i have gathered. i will not be doing any serious crazy 4wheeling, but i do mud bog at certain events mostly. i run and compete in a 4 & 6 cylinder class where you cant have visible motor mods.

so far i put a 2" body lift in and i did the rear flip kit done using the stock 8.8, 31spline rear, and the center section is welded and i added a set of 4:10 gears. so with all that in the back i got 5 1/2"s of lift.

for the front we are using a d44 out of an early bronco that will be coil sprung. im going to order early bronco spring buckets and 5 1/2" lift coils, we are doing custom steering and eventually custum radius arms.

i plan to run at least 36" tires, maybe a set of swamper ssr's or iroks.

now since ill be usuaing an early bronco rear thats narrower that a full size width, tires shouldnt hang out to far right? that will be about the same as the stock 8.8 rear? or will the fronts hang out way more?
 



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FROADER

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tdavis used them when he did his Navajo.

http://www.explorerforum.com/tdavis/navajo/solid/

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ReDLiNeZL

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hey bud which question do you still have the 33x10.5 boggers? how much tread life is left, im lookin to downgrade from my 37" boggers to 33" boggers let me kno

yea i dunno they are my dads, we ran em in the mud 2x so they got about 300 feet of use, basically brand new! not sure if he'll sell and if so he'll want good $
 






95offroadx

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i was wondering if you like to make a trade, 37" boggers on cragar sim lock wheels, for those boggers.
 






ReDLiNeZL

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1. so i put my d44 in today but it sits so damn far back, i even mounted my buckets as far as it would go on drivers side b/c or the divits in frame b4 steering box. where did i go wrong? i used stock radius arms and brackets.. should i move them more forward? help me out....

2. any ideas for the trac bar? i have 5.5" coils should i get as tock early bronco trac bar or full width bar??

3. my coils are only shifted to the side so bad b/c there is no trac bar yet.

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IZwack

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extend the radius arms.
 












IZwack

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Yeah I guess you could do that.

If you drilled holes through the chassis for the radius arm mounts, dont forget to plug them up if they arent being used.
 






ReDLiNeZL

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Yeah I guess you could do that.

this is on a budget, and i being used to mud bog.. when my poor self gets some more money ill be building tubular radius arms.. but you think for now just move them r.a. mounts forward will solve my problem?
 






IZwack

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this is on a budget, and i being used to mud bog.. when my poor self gets some more money ill be building tubular radius arms.. but you think for now just move them r.a. mounts forward will solve my problem?
Yeah it will fix the problem.

Oh and if its going to sit that tall, your caster looks off -- looks like you have negative caster. Probably doesnt matter if you're just going to bog it, but if you drive it on the street, it can get hairy to handle with a negative caster as the vehicle will try to turn itself instead if going straight
Images%5CTire%20Info%20Caster.jpg
 






ReDLiNeZL

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Yeah it will fix the problem.

Oh and if its going to sit that tall, your caster looks off -- looks like you have negative caster. Probably doesnt matter if you're just going to bog it, but if you drive it on the street, it can get hairy to handle with a negative caster.
Images%5CTire%20Info%20Caster.jpg

yes i know its negative lol... thats what im saying, by moving my ra mounts more forward will this fix all of that problem, ly caster and putting my tires below and insid ethe wheel well????
 






IZwack

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yes i know its negative lol... thats what im saying, by moving my ra mounts more forward will this fix all of that problem, ly caster and putting my tires below and insid ethe wheel well????
It might fix the caster just by a hair but not much. When the springs settle, it might also help with the caster too but again not much.

Caster has to be set after your pinion angle is set - in relation to the driveshaft and eventually the transfer case. After the pinion angle is set, the only real way to fix negative caster is to cut the inner knuckles and "turn" them, and then re-weld. I think most people aim for 3-5 degrees of positive caster.
 






ReDLiNeZL

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hmmm so it could also help if i raised my spring buckets up a little higher?
 






IZwack

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hmmm so it could also help if i raised my spring buckets up a little higher?
Yes but you mud bug people require tall vehicles -- where rock crawling doesn't require as much height :D.

But remember, caster and pinion angle, they're tied in with each other unless you cut the inner knuckle. Change one, and you directly affect the other.
 






ReDLiNeZL

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truuue but it doesnt need to be as tall as it is, i cut the rockers of the sides, so the measurement to the bottom of the drivers door is 32" the back is 28.8". so you think its a better idea to raise my coil buckets to get my tires to move more forward?
 






IZwack

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so you think its a better idea to raise my coil buckets to get my tires to move more forward?
Try raising the coil mounts first, then if that's not enough, move the radius arms forward (or extend the arms).
 






ReDLiNeZL

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alright i really do appreciate your help, this is my 1st swap
 






lifeguard379

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looks like the ra mounts are back wards. try swapping one side for the other and the coil might look better. i think
 












IZwack

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Ahaha wow thats wiiiilllld. Lets hope he reads this before he starts unbolting and cutting everything else tomorrow :D
 



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What degree wedges are you running?

That thing is TALL. LOL

Move the radius arm mounts forward. Put the rear bolt in the front bolt mount. That will push the axle forward about 5" from where it is. Putting it about 3" forward of stock.

If it was me, I'd do a custom trac bar, draglink and tierod. All made with 3/4 heims and 1/4 wall tubing. I'm in the process of making my heim steering, just waiting on the tubing.

WTF I saw your junk on craigslist last week, plus the tires separately. Oh yea you still need to stop by the house DON'T YOU?
 






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