96 5.0 needs a new motor

[CDW6212R]

Well done, that's good planning. Replace all of the coolant hoses(6), and the three idler pulleys, and belt too. Working on the front of the engine is big PITA trouble, do it all there if you can.

 

[AWD96spoon]

Well done, that's good planning. Replace all of the coolant hoses(6), and the three idler pulleys, and belt too. Working on the front of the engine is big PITA trouble, do it all there if you can.

Thanks for the advice, I was thinking of doing the idler pulley as well after I had to replace the compressor clutch last weekend and saw how rough those bearings were. The hoses are definitely a good idea as well. Gotta try to keep the wife happy so I can make another pricey order from summit haha.

 

[CDW6212R]

The idler on the tensioner is the same one as the top idler, so two of those and the little ribbed one below the tensioner.

 

[AWD96spoon]

Does anything change on the 4r70w between 96 and 01? Thinking about buying a reman unit to save some time. Anyone have a recomendation ln where to get a decent reman gir a good price. Saw jegs has one but not sure it would fit.

 

[CDW6212R]

Does anything change on the 4r70w between 96 and 01? Thinking about buying a reman unit to save some time. Anyone have a recomendation ln where to get a decent reman gir a good price. Saw jegs has one but not sure it would fit.

The 4R70W was upgraded in 1998, most people choose to start with a 98+ model if they can. The wiring changed slightly due to different solenoid connectors. You can swap a 98+ into a pre-98 by re-pinning the external trans connector, and using the pre-98 DTRS sensor(range sensor on the side). The 98+ is worth it long term, but if it's just a rebuild with no plans to keep for 100k miles, stick with the pre-98 model.

The front intermediate clutch has a mechanical diode in the 98+ models, that's the major internal difference. If the rpm's will get above 5000, it's smart to use spiral locks on that front one way clutch, in any model, the stock part is often slung off with higher rpm's. That's a cheap part to replace, the aftermarket spiral lock is always used in high performance applications. A reman won't have that done for sure, but's it's not hard to update, it's right behind the pump.

I'd try to find someone close enough who will build one for you, and take them either your old 4R, or a 98+ model. The car models are a slight better choice if you can find a V6 Mustang up to 2004, 04 being the best(J Mod is already done in the VB).

 

[410Fortune]

AS CDW pointed out:

If you use a 98+ 4r70w (good idea) you will need to move some pins around in your 96 trans wire connector
Big white plug passenger side. 98 4r70w solenoid pack and wiring harness are superior to the 96-97 units.

The 96 4r70w has 3 power wires entering the trans, the 98 has one, then splits into 3 inside the trans
The 98 DTRS is digital in 96-97 they are still analog so use the 96 DTRS
Thise are the only changes as far as the truck is concerned.
PM me for the two wiring pinout diagrams if you need them

I find working on the front of the 5.0 much easier then the other two V6 engines, the 5.0 is WAAAAY better even the timing cover in the truck is not terrible...

 

[AWD96spoon]

Well now I'm bummed out because it looks like due to budgetary restrictions caused by the 4406 swap, I'm just going to have to have my old one rebuilt, which should still be just fine. I just hate to use an inferior model. On another note,I've been searching high and low for the parts I need for the 4406 swap and have found everything I need except the shift linkage and will be ordering it all in the next day or so. There are only a couple of salvages in my area and none of them have a manual shift 4406 truck so I've been searching ebay and online salvage inventories but cannot seem to find the dang linkage. Doorman has one but it looks like the one that was mentioned as not working so I'm hesitant of it. Working 12 hour graveyard shifts at work this month so my motivation to get out to the shop and work on the truck has been minimal, but the old motor is just about ready to come out. Just have to drop the transmission and she will be ready to pull. Pretty excited to get to put it all back together and test it out!

 

[410Fortune]

to find the linkage at the junk yards / wreckers instead of looking for the manual t case itself go look at the 4r70w and 4r100 transmissions they have. The linkage is attached to the tailhousing of the transmission and when they part out the trucks the t cases get moved to one area and the transmissions go to another. The linkage will be on the transmissions.
It can be hard to get somebody to know what you are looking for and to help/let you go look at their transmissions.........but this is what you need to do.
After calling all over town and checking a few wrecking yards I eventually got the correct dude behind the desk and when we went and saw the transmissions bingo I found my linkage....

rebuilding your 96 GT40 (non p heads) is not considered an "inferior model" at all...the P heads flowed more air and made slightly more power but your gt40 is no slouch.
Have you considered purchasing a crate engine instead of going down the "rebuild road"?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

IF i can remember, i will watch for one at work. do you need the shifter and boot as well, or just the linkage and bolts?

 

[AWD96spoon]

IF i can remember, i will watch for one at work. do you need the shifter and boot as well, or just the linkage and bolts?

Just the linkage and bolts. I'd appreciate it if you can find it though.

 

[AWD96spoon]

to find the linkage at the junk yards / wreckers instead of looking for the manual t case itself go look at the 4r70w and 4r100 transmissions they have. The linkage is attached to the tailhousing of the transmission and when they part out the trucks the t cases get moved to one area and the transmissions go to another. The linkage will be on the transmissions.
It can be hard to get somebody to know what you are looking for and to help/let you go look at their transmissions.........but this is what you need to do.
After calling all over town and checking a few wrecking yards I eventually got the correct dude behind the desk and when we went and saw the transmissions bingo I found my linkage....

rebuilding your 96 GT40 (non p heads) is not considered an "inferior model" at all...the P heads flowed more air and made slightly more power but your gt40 is no slouch.
Have you considered purchasing a crate engine instead of going down the "rebuild road"?

Well I was talking about my 4r70w being inferior to the 98+ models. As far as the engine goes, I already had a non p head motor rebuilt. Its sitting on the stand in the garage waiting to go in. I will have to go look through the transmissions at the yard to find the linkage if I can't get it anywhere else.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Found you a linkage.

 

[AWD96spoon]

Found you a linkage.

Awesome! I sent you a PM.

 

[AWD96spoon]

One of my drive shafts and T case came in today and looks like it's in pretty good shape. The other drive shaft, the shifter/knob/boot should be here in a couple days and thanks to vroomzoomboom I will have my linkage in about a week. Just gotta get the tranny dropped off at the shop now!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Just remember, there is one bushing missing on the linkage I’m sending you. If your lucky it will be on the shifting fork of the case you have there, otherwise you might have to get one. And your welcome

 

[AWD96spoon]

There is one on it, and it's in good condition. Got lucky!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

And that’s the one you’ll need!

 

[AWD96spoon]

Well I got my old motor and transmission out this weekend. Liked to fight me every step of the way but it all finally came out! Gonna clean up the engine bay and start working on the body lift.

 

[AWD96spoon]

So I'm really about maxed out on my budget on this thing but I am contemplating an intake spacer and injectors. Is there much to gain from the intake spacer or bigger injectors? The truck is already going to be tuned when I get it back together so I'm not worried about that, I just dont know if these would be beneficial. I can always go back a add the spacer and change the injectors at a later date, just not sure if it would be a mistake to do all this work and leave these out.

 

[CDW6212R]

Keep your injectors and skip the spacer. Only change the injectors if you had a big miss that you couldn't find, or if you made larger airflow changes. The 19's are good enough for an extra 40-50hp over stock, and that's hard to get from these.