96 5.0 needs a new motor | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums

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96 5.0 needs a new motor

Got my transmission installed and torque converter filled and mounted, gonna try to get the motor installes this coming weekend, and then start trying to fit the 4406. Things are getting pretty close to being finished but still a lot of work to be done.

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Looking good but are you sure those valve covers will clear those rocker arms?
 






Your project looks awesome!! Keep it up and thanks for sharing

I agree probably need different valve covers
The explorer covers might clear if you remove all the baffles and some material from a couple of rockers
I would rather use diff covers!!

These work well on explorer:
79-93 Mustang 302 valve covers polished aluminum | eBay

Also I have used these with a little modification to oil fill AND intake spacer
SBF Ford 289 302 Fabricated Polished Aluminum Valve Covers Tall Mustang V8 5.0L | eBay

You may consider removing the oil cooler. The 96-97 model 5.0 had the oil filter mount/oil cooler in the lower radiator hose.
Sure it is a nice concept, until you have water in your oil or vise versa
The 98-01 model did away with it
I use the 98 style oil filter mount and lower hose to eliminate the oil cooler
personal preference, I have seen two of them go bad in 20 years of wrenching but these parts are getting older. I do not think it is needed on the 302 and ford decided similar in 98
I know I know you already cleaned it and it has that cool blue hose...
 






I completely agree with the valve covers, I've been looking for good replacement options without much luck so I just ordered the first ones you mentioned. As for the oil cooler, I will most likely do away with it in the future but I'm going to run it for now, at least until I can get a relocation kit for my filter. I'm just trying to get this thing driving again so the wife will be happy and I wont have to keep riding the motorcycle to work in the rain lol.
 






You'll still probably have to clearance the oil baffling in those. Put the valve covers on without the gaskets and just start the bolts. Then turn the motor over and see if they lift up at all. If they do you need to trim/grind out the baffled area most likely. Don't think the valve cover gasket will space it up enough, the lifters will not be fully pumped up when you turn it over so there will be a little more lift once pumped up.
 






Sounds good, they wont be here till the 23rd so I'll probably be swapping them in with the motor partially installed but that shouldn't be a problem I dont think. If I have the ignition disconnected and the valve covers bolts just started, would it matter if I used the starter to turn the motor?
 






It would work but I'd probably do it by hand. 24mm on the crank pulley with 1/2" ratchet.
 






The starter won't back off if there's binding, so there's the potential to break things. Much safer to turn it slower by hand and feel for problems as you go.
 






yes the aluminum mustang valve covers just remove the baffles and they SHOULD clear
They did for me with ford motorsport rockers and then again later with Scorpion brand rockers.
Doing the valve covers in the engine bay is a snap as long as the upper intake is not installed yet

Nice work thus far!
Also the 5.0L uses a 15/16" socket on the front although I am sure 24mm fits too :) LMFAO
 






Also the 5.0L uses a 15/16" socket on the front although I am sure 24mm fits too :) LMFAO

Us young boys grab metric before standard lol
 






Agreed. Watch the valve covers carefully. Believe it or not, they could even prevent the valves from closing all the way if there is enough interference, which there will be with those covers.

They do make a thick valve cover gasket which will help.

You could put a ball of modeling clay on top of each and of the outer rockers, hold them down by hand while someone slowly turns the engine 2 complete revolutions. This will reveal your clearance.
 






That's how I did it with the clay
You should consider the intake spacer :) It really keeps the upper plenum MUCH MUCH cooler = cooler air charge = more power
 






That's how I did it with the clay
You should consider the intake spacer :) It really keeps the upper plenum MUCH MUCH cooler = cooler air charge = more power

Would you happen to have a part number for the intake spacer? I'll probably go ahead and get one. I got the engine dropped in last night.

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Hunt the shortest spacer you can, the phenolic is great for heat reduction over AL. The thicker spacers move power down and take from the top rpm's, we don't need that. Get a 3/8" spacer if they make one, else 1/2" will do.
 






I am not sure if it is still an issue, but make sure the kit includes the needed bolts.

Don't throw those old upper intake bolts away either. Throw them in your gear puller kit, they are perfect for removing the harmonic balancer.

/PSA
 






I am not sure if it is still an issue, but make sure the kit includes the needed bolts.

Don't throw those old upper intake bolts away either. Throw them in your gear puller kit, they are perfect for removing the harmonic balancer.

/PSA

Yes, those bolts are great for the stock balancer for pulling. They don't fit the aftermarket balancer that is the best quality replacement with better binding. I have that and noticed the threads are different, likely normal puller bolts fit those.
 






Got the spacer ordered. Got the motor sitting down on its mounts and mated to the transmission. Gonna need a little more work to get it completely bolted to the bellhousing, as one of the dowels in the block wont quite slide into its hole on the transmission but should go with a little persuasion. How much grease does the tail shaft on the trans need?

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your spacer kit comes with two of the long bolts, you will need two more (4 total)....... can find them at Fastenall or good hardware stores

Tailhousing on the trans gets no grease just make sure its clean
Make sure you stab the converter properly!!
 



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your spacer kit comes with two of the long bolts, you will need two more (4 total)....... can find them at Fastenall or good hardware stores

Tailhousing on the trans gets no grease just make sure its clean
Make sure you stab the converter properly!!
Awesome, thank you. The converter slid all they way in very easily and completely seated. I should be able to come up with the bolts at work and if not there's a fastenal in town. I have a 3 day weekend starting tomorrow so I can hopefully make some progress.
 






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