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96 5.0 needs a new motor

I'm hoping for a good burnout video by Sunday! As for the injectors, I'll probably order them and swap them out in a month or ap before I go get it tuned. Also, i have already replaced both upstream o2 sensors with motorcrafts and on of the downstream with a Bosch just to make a circuit fault code go away(I no longer have cats so I don't care about the accuracy of the downstream sensors)
 



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the 19# injectors are good for up to 300+ HP
Is that filler neck gonna clear the intake tube? the crankcase breather appears to be pointing the wrong way
LMFAO I am just giving you crap, looks good so far! Lets hear it runnin!!
 






Well I ordered those refurbished injectors but probably wont replace them till I get the truck tuned. Made some more progress after work last night and I've got my brother driving down tomorrow to help finish up. So stay posted for a video or 2 over the weekend!
 






Alright well there is good news and bad news, the good news is, the truck is back together and runs. The bad news is the transmission failed pretty much immediately and I believe I cracked the intake spacer so I'll be pulling the upper intake back off. On first start up the engine got oil pressure within 3 seconds and felt smooth,the valve spring damper that was popping originally went away in about 10 seconds, but there was a banging noise that started about 30 seconds after starting and was coming from somewhere else and it didnt go away after about a minute so I shut the truck off and looked around. didnt see anything obvious. All the fluid levels were good so I started it again and the noise was still there but was hard to tell where it was coming from, didnt feel anything on valve covers or oil pan. Kinda sounded like it was coming from the bell housing so I shut it off and checked for any flex plate movement and it was solid, rotated the motor over by hand and checked my torque converter bolts and they were all still tight. Started the truck again and tested all the gears on the trans without the transfer case hooked up and the tail shaft spun just fine in all gears shut the motor off, Removed the oil filter and poured the contents into a glass bowl and did not see any particulates. I cut the oil silver open and looked in the paper filter element and didn't find anything. Filled a new filter with oil and put it on and started the engine again, the noise was there for about 15 seconds and then went away. I figured it was probably a lifter with some air trapped in it. The next day I put the new transfer case and drive shafts in but when I went to back it out of the garage I didnt have reverse, checked my transmission fluid level and it was low so I added 2 quarts and tried to back out again. No luck. I tried to put it in drive amd pull forward and no luck. I put it in 1st and it moved forward, and then I put it in 2nd and it moved forward but still no reverse or drive. I checked the fluid again and it was just right on the dipstick so I pushed the truck out of the driveway and took it around the block in 1st and found that 1st is slipping and 2nd is slipping even worse and still no drive or reverse. I contacted the builder and he says that it is most likely the sun shell in the trans and it is brad new but he has seen new ones fail before, and that I can bring him the truck and he will pull it and fix it under warranty. As for the intake spacer, when i was tightening one of the upper intake bolts i heard a pop but could not see and damage to the spacer and the bolt tightened just fine but the truck is not wanting to idle and I am getting code p0402 for excessive EGR flow. It is also a possibility that I tore the bottom gasket for the spacer on installation as it was a tight fit to get the bolt holes lined up, but I have an extra set of gaskets so If it's just a bad gasket I should have that covered. The last thing is the top end of the engine is a little noisy but the engine hasn't run much yet and not much at al under a load so I am hoping it quiets down a little after it gets broke in a little more. Anyways let me know what you think. Here is a picture of the engine put back together though.

20181104_171824.jpg
 






Dang!!
Your builder should put some pressure gauges on the side of the trans and check pump pressure.
I had damn near the same thing happen to a fresh 4r70w recently
The front pump needs to be checked, we have had them come new in the box and MISSING PARTS/bolts
The front pump was not building pressure....4r70w had to come back out. My builder checked all the "new" pumps he had on the shelves and they were ALL MISSING the same bolts.
Now he rebuilds his own pumps, because the remand (new in box) units were not complete from the builder!
Let us know what you find out!
She looks good, I know that does not mean much right now....keep fighting the battle rages on..........
 






Dang!!
Your builder should put some pressure gauges on the side of the trans and check pump pressure.
I had damn near the same thing happen to a fresh 4r70w recently
The front pump needs to be checked, we have had them come new in the box and MISSING PARTS/bolts
The front pump was not building pressure....4r70w had to come back out. My builder checked all the "new" pumps he had on the shelves and they were ALL MISSING the same bolts.
Now he rebuilds his own pumps, because the remand (new in box) units were not complete from the builder!
Let us know what you find out!
She looks good, I know that does not mean much right now....keep fighting the battle rages on..........
I will definitely bring up the pump pressure to him. I'm going to try to get it trailered to him this Thursday if I can figure out how to pull it there as the builder is 3 hours away from me. Some good news is that he is going to remove and reinstall the trans for me so there is one less thing for me to worry about.
 






For the excessive egr flow, it is probably a hung up , sticking egr position sensor. The 96 pcm does not measure actual "flow" , it uses an assumption based on the position of the sensor compared to the PCM request to open and close the egr valve. In other words, a vacuum leak should not result in that code. I could be mistaken but this is the direction I would take in troubleshooting that code
 






For the excessive egr flow, it is probably a hung up , sticking egr position sensor. The 96 pcm does not measure actual "flow" , it uses an assumption based on the position of the sensor compared to the PCM request to open and close the egr valve. In other words, a vacuum leak should not result in that code. I could be mistaken but this is the direction I would take in troubleshooting that code
I will start there and see what I can come up with. The engine isn't wanting to idle, I had to turn up the idle set screw significantly to get it to idle and when I rev the engine and the RPMs come back down they will fall below the idle setting and it tries to pick back up but sometimes it dies before it can. My new injectors will be here today or tomorrow so I'll probably go ahead and take my upper intake off to change the injectors and inspect everything at that point. If I can borrow a good scan tool I'll take a look at what my o2's are picking up and any other info it will tell me. I used my SCT to pull the codes last night but I dont know if it will show live data other than coolant temp and voltage.
 






The last thing is the top end of the engine is a little noisy but the engine hasn't run much yet and not much at al under a load so I am hoping it quiets down a little after it gets broke in a little more.

I have always found roller rockers to be noisier that stock units.

It may not go away.

P.S. Engine looks good.
 












That stinks about the transmission but the trans guy willing to do the labor shows he's honest and really wants to know why it happened and to see if the trans got damaged on the install as well i'm sure.

Do you have a phenolic spacer? The long intake bolts always had a distinct crack too them when being torqued. May have something to do with the steel bolt sticking to the soft aluminum under pressure, longer bolts combined with harmonics. Or the intake cracked..

Of coarse take off both valve covers and have a look-see when the intake is off.

Didn't the engine builder set up the valve train?
 






The valve cover to rocker arm clearance has me concerned also.
I put balls of clay on both ends of all my rockers and tightened down my valve covers and rotated the engine over by hand before final assembly and had plenty of room but when I pull the intake I'll pull the valve covers and inspect everything.
 






That stinks about the transmission but the trans guy willing to do the labor shows he's honest and really wants to know why it happened and to see if the trans got damaged on the install as well i'm sure.

Do you have a phenolic spacer? The long intake bolts always had a distinct crack too them when being torqued. May have something to do with the steel bolt sticking to the soft aluminum under pressure, longer bolts combined with harmonics. Or the intake cracked..

Of coarse take off both valve covers and have a look-see when the intake is off.

Didn't the engine builder set up the valve train?
The builder did set up the valve train. It is a phenolic spacer. I dont think I cracked the intake but wont know for sure till I get it back apart and look everything over. I will definitely be pulling the valve covers as well to check everything in there.
 






I have always found roller rockers to be noisier that stock units.

It may not go away.

P.S. Engine looks good.

If it's just the rollers being a little noisy by nature than I dont mind if it doesn't go away, just want to make sure nothing is malfunctioning.
 






No pressure.

Everyone is watching you...

LOL!
 






It may not idle due to the EGR code.
The fact that it gave you an EGR code that quickly means it was easy to detect = large leak

Nice work thus far, my trans builder is my good buddy he is always there to help us yank a trans when something goes shi^^y with a new build
You build enough transmissions some of them are going to need road test and repair before they are 110%....welcome to the game
 












It may not idle due to the EGR code.
The fact that it gave you an EGR code that quickly means it was easy to detect = large leak

Nice work thus far, my trans builder is my good buddy he is always there to help us yank a trans when something goes shi^^y with a new build
You build enough transmissions some of them are going to need road test and repair before they are 110%....welcome to the game

I'm hoping I find a big leak somewhere but haven't been able to see anything with it fully assembled. In pulling the upper intake tomorrow so I'll hopefully have a better idea of what a going on then.
 






The pig will go wheeling again come hell or high water lol. Just hopefully sooner rather than later.

OK.

Step back relax.

Take your time.

It's gonna work just fine.
 



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Well I dont believe I cracked the the upper or lower intake, or the spacer. But I know now that I have stripped a bolt hole in back of the lower intake. After work tonight I went out to try to find a leak and noticed that the bolt that made the noise was no longer tight. I put a wrench on it and it will not tighten up. Hopefully it's just pulled threads and not a crack. If it's a pulled thread then I should be able to drill and tap my hole and still fit the new bolt through the hole on the upper intake without drilling that out. If there is a crack then I do have another lower intake I can clean up and use or I could buy an aftermarket one if I can get one for a decent price.
 






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