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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Frame notched to minimize bump steer and move the panhard as high as possible (w/o hitting the oil pan) for a high roll center. This also allows the link betwen both hi-steer arms to stuff into the frame rail. The pitman arm comes very close to the steering link but clears it. I will make my own pitman arm - so the arm will be 0.25 to 0.5 inch shorter just to be on the safe side - and it will be almost flat with the tie rod inserting from the bottom.
I didn't finish the panhard today because I didn't have time to go to the shop with the pipe bender - so I'm hoping they're open tomorrow and I'll get the bent done .
Here's a tip.. Next time with the stick welder, hold the stick pretty much horizontal with a little upward pitch to it.. Before too much molten steel is appears move about 3/4 of an inch upward. Don't try to do a vertical down weld on 3/16 or 1/4, you won't get good penetration most times.
I also prefer to run a horseshoe pattern mving higher up each side as I go. This allows me to concentrate onthe peices I am welding together enough to get good penetration with out taking too much time so my puddle runs away. I am sure there are more technical terms for that
This is a pic from a few days ago with the frame bracket tacked to the chassis. The brackets are from 0.25-inch plate.
The gas tank was removed from the chassis to thermally isolate it from the chassis.
A few layers of cardboard were also inserted between the frame rail and the fuel lines to minimize heat transfer to the fuel rails from the welding process.
oh and some one keeps editing my sig! i wonder who it is *cough*
Well I'm about 2 days behind schedule... sooo today i almost finished one shock tower, so I'll get to the other one done maybe tomorrow or Wednesday.. and it should sit all by itself soon after that.
Then it will be moved to my house cauz there are other "projects" that are in line at my friend's driveway. But once its moved, I have to do the easier things like change driveshaft yoke from 1310 to 1350, RABS sensor, and other small things like run the brake lines.
So to sum it up - I guess 2 weeks or so to finish - I'm back at work so I get a few hours a day. And this week's weather looks yucky - High of 102 for the middle of the week.
is the abs bypassed? and how? is there some secret you offroad guys are keeping from me? i'm too lazy to read 9 pages because the info might be in there- please tell me how to bypass it if it is possible to use stock brakes and do so
I saw somwhere you were talking about building a new pitman arm. I believe Sky manufacturing makes a flat pitman arm for the toyota box. Hurry up and get it on the road
I saw somwhere you were talking about building a new pitman arm. I believe Sky manufacturing makes a flat pitman arm for the toyota box. Hurry up and get it on the road
Don't you lose your speed-o then? I plan to just run right through it and pull the fuse..
Rockranger said:
I saw somwhere you were talking about building a new pitman arm. I believe Sky manufacturing makes a flat pitman arm for the toyota box. Hurry up and get it on the road