Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread | Page 76 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread

The new turd mobile. 2000 Mountaineer v8 awd.



The bad:

Was living it's prior life on a dusty road. Must tear out interior and deep clean.
Driver window off track "or something" and will not roll down. It tries but the rear part wants to stay up.

3 out of 4 door handles have issues. I have 4 new outer handles on order.
Cracked passenger side tail light housing. ( Ebay for some cool tail lights)

Compass-Thermometer thingy lit up and went out--idunno bout that yet

Door locks seem sticky, probably has to do with the handles.
It has a funky purple color trim with red metallic ( you'll have that every now and then) :(

The good
Gas tank was full
109k miles
I am the 2nd owner!!
Is from the local area, which means no salt!
The undercarriage is fairly clean
No dents to underside panels
Good rubber
Camber shims already installed
Looks like good service records, all recalls were completed.
Clean carfax believe it or not.

The "maybe" bad

The original owner, told the dealership it had a bad "heater core" however I have run it for several cycles, over an hour each idling in the driveay and see no leaks.
However, there was evidence of a windshield leak or the like,I saw condensation on the inside of the windows this AM. The moisture smell is that of water only-no anti freeze smell. I am thinking it could also be a cowl drain which is clogged???? but she did say the passenger carpet got wet.

I tried to get heat, however it is an auto climate control. Being 90 degrees outside, I doubt it would have given me heat.The heater core hoses were hot, and the coolant bypass valve does operate. AC blows Ice cold.

Maybe she meant to say "heater door"???

Anyway--here are the pics.



My intent is to drive this and use it as a tow rig for a light weight off road toy. Mods will be minimal. Edit: This plan did not work out so on to plan "b"

Current visual status

001-8_zps25438bd5.jpg


Progress pictures
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026.jpg


027.jpg


028.jpg


031.jpg


032.jpg


044.jpg


043.jpg


042.jpg

038.jpg


Now, let's clean it up a little


Herculine'rd rocker panels. Rock sliders installed

005-4.jpg


004-3.jpg



BW 4406 True 4x4 Manual transfer case ( AKA Mouse entry point) installed 8-27-2012
Installed newer Tcase from a 2003 11-14-15

003-7.jpg

Saw a rainbow in Colorado so yeah, time for a picture
119.jpg

And here she is, on top of the highest pass road in North America. Careful tire placement a must!!!
041-1.jpg


2-2-2013

Changed "color scheme" of the Dick Cepek DC1 wheels. New Falken Wildpeak AT 31x1050x15

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Then I decided Maroon washer on the wheels would look better

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Update 6-6-2013

New bumpers, winch and Pro LED light . Front Bumper from RLC, Skid plate from RCI, rear bumper from Kert307


001-8_zps25438bd5.jpg


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Rear anti sway disconnects

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Update 9-2-2014
A cracked radiator at 70mph led to engine failure. Replaced with a freshened up a bit 80k mile engine starting on page 23

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Found another rainbow in Kansas.

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For the valve covers, go the extra mile and buy the OEM steel gaskets. There will be aftermarket versions I'm sure, I bought two spare sets a long time ago. The Fox chassis 302 HO engines should all have come with the steel VC gaskets. They are a rigid thick steel core, with rubber coating the whole thing. They are reusable generally. My 91 Mark VII had them and my last two Mark VII's I haven't had to work on the engine at all yet. I don't look forward to guying gaskets for my old Cleveland engines, they might only have cork available for some things. I hate cork, I'll use straight RTV before that.


If the oil leak is not terrible and you can reach the offending opening, it's very possible to seal it up with RTV. I did that with my 2nd Crown Vic, a 1985 351W. It had a big leak from the rear intake gasket, it was gone. I cleaned it very well, and carefully filled it with Ultra Black RTV. That was a carb intake, so I could reach it completely. These tall EFI intakes, that's not easy at all.

You made me look, try this link to VC gaskets on Rock Auto; the last two look promising, similar to the old HO gaskets;
 



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For the valve covers, go the extra mile and buy the OEM steel gaskets. There will be aftermarket versions I'm sure, I bought two spare sets a long time ago. The Fox chassis 302 HO engines should all have come with the steel VC gaskets. They are a rigid thick steel core, with rubber coating the whole thing. They are reusable generally. My 91 Mark VII had them and my last two Mark VII's I haven't had to work on the engine at all yet. I don't look forward to guying gaskets for my old Cleveland engines, they might only have cork available for some things. I hate cork, I'll use straight RTV before that.


If the oil leak is not terrible and you can reach the offending opening, it's very possible to seal it up with RTV. I did that with my 2nd Crown Vic, a 1985 351W. It had a big leak from the rear intake gasket, it was gone. I cleaned it very well, and carefully filled it with Ultra Black RTV. That was a carb intake, so I could reach it completely. These tall EFI intakes, that's not easy at all.

You made me look, try this link to VC gaskets on Rock Auto; the last two look promising, similar to the old HO gaskets;
Thanks for the link. This is what I have, guess I use em
IMG_20230510_153743261_HDR.jpg
 






@traveler , check how high up the bell housing oil is present. You could have a leaky egr grommet, or even valve cover. Inside my bell housing is dry, if yours is dry behind the inspection cover, your leak is higher up. Fingers crossed for you.
I've been under and around the entire valve cover and EGR area lately (put in new exhaust manifold). It's all dry except for around the Rear Main seal and the rear of the oil pan. Still irritates me however. I guess with the Body lift, raising the engine up a few inches might be a little easier, but still a lot of work (and heavy lifting) to reach and replace $60.00 worth of parts.
 






The oil pan is also not terrible to add RTV to and reduce or stop that leaking. I did that with my 2nd LSC, which my best friend bought when I found my 3rd(match to my first which was a Special Edition). He drove that for over 140k miles and it barely leaked any more, the rear seal of course had the typical minor seeping.
 






Hate to actually admit this, but I'm so happy Tim was able to make something out of the pile of great parts I had.
I'm still happy to have washed my hands of the continual missery I endured. Self inflicted, but still..................

and your dark black cloud that was once over your truck, is over mine now 🤣

Jon, wish you would have said something. would have been a good excuse for a road trip. the funny, not so funny thing is mine for the most part comes apart easy, but thats only because i have had it apart more times then i have bought shoes over the last 10 years....
 






and your dark black cloud that was once over your truck, is over mine now 🤣

Jon, wish you would have said something. would have been a good excuse for a road trip. the funny, not so funny thing is mine for the most part comes apart easy, but thats only because i have had it apart more times then i have bought shoes over the last 10 years....
That would be awesome When are you coming ?



Ok,the damage report. if you want to see anything I'll take pictures.

Pcv had popped out of grommet. Icky mess.

No pcv meant pressure in crankcase. Which got up into intake of course.
Also, not mentioning any names but somebody used cork-lam ( cork between rubber layer) Valve cover gaskets. Annnd, he forgot to torque the valve cover bolts tight like 7 years ago was it?. More icky mess.

Was only losing about 3/4 qt between 3500 mile changes of Mobil 1. We know where it is now. All. Over .

I do have the lower intake removed and stripped of parts for washing. Let me tell you,you haven't lived a full life until you've pulled the heater hoses and fuel line connector on the rail. The threaded in crossover tube was also a great time.

Still need to pull the throttle body from plenum so the plennum also can be washed. Valve covers are off, covered in oil mud stuff. Also being washed.
 






Sounds like a typical day around here in 5.0 land

I bought a topside creeper few years back for working on diesel trucks

It makes removing and installing the 5.0
Plenum much easier

Felpro
Blue gaskets work awesome
I still use a little permatex on the lower intake (of course), the timing cover, valve covers, oil pan sandwich both sides with a light film. No leaks on my 5.ohs

I cut a wrench in half for the egr tube, it allows easier access in the truck and I can put a cheater bar on it

The pcv valve grommet gets permatex to the block and a little permatex on the outside of the pcv body helps keep it seated as well

Injector clips are a joke, if they brake you can secure them with small zip ties right around the injector body, will never come loose

Still way better then working on a sohc engine… just took the valve covers off a 03’aohc yesterday and getting ready to crush an 05 today just needed the engine from that beast…. 5.0 waaaaaaaaay easier to work on, far less hoses and clamps and plastic crap everywhere!
You can do it! I would help if it was in Idaho!! Hahaha
 






@410Fortune thank you.

@410Fortune please, another question if I may. 2000 V8 Camshaft sensor alignment. I have these tools, which is proper? Blue one doesn't seem right, and also has a provision for something tall in center. My sensor seemed closer to the black one after getting crank in position. Rotated clockwise to tdc then back to 10 btdc to take up chain slack
IMG_20230515_170423695_HDR.jpg
IMG_20230515_170416222_HDR.jpg
 






I spent most of the day cleaning gasket surfaces and running a tap thru all intake holes to get a good torque on them. Also applied anti size, and made some guide studs to slide intake straight down
IMG_20230515_171754154_HDR.jpg
 












@410Fortune thank you.

@410Fortune please, another question if I may. 2000 V8 Camshaft sensor alignment. I have these tools, which is proper? Blue one doesn't seem right, and also has a provision for something tall in center. My sensor seemed closer to the black one after getting crank in position. Rotated clockwise to tdc then back to 10 btdc to take up chain slackView attachment 441801View attachment 441802
i dont think either of those is correct jon. you should have a black one with a haft moon in the center if i am not wrong
 






i dont think either of those is correct jon. you should have a black one with a haft moon in the center if i am not wrong
My 2000 sensor has a very narrow flag compared to 98 style half circle flag. Both above pictured tools "fit"my sensor. The set of sensor tools I purchased had 3 others with half circle slots.
IMG_20230515_223806957_HDR.jpg


Blue and black to left fit my sensor. I believe the grey is 98 style. All arrows on tools pointing left. Black matches OTC 6470 , blue is OTC 6473
upon searching.
 












my bad lol
Hey, you just keep trying though.

I know you guys won't believe this. wait.i know you will believe this. We're working on a 2nd gen and it's always something. .
Today's something was running out of solder on the 7 th injector connector. Need 8 ya know. Had to run up to the county seat Walmart tonight for more.
 






Black is correct
2 wire sensor the flag is set in the middle of the window when aligning cam synchro with engine at tdc compression

3 wire sensor is the half moon style up to 97
 












Not as quick as we used to be! Me either… but it’s okay the work is quality!
 















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Betty's throttle cable bracket was 23 years old yesterday. How'd I miss that?

June is her birthday. Hope she's willing to drive by then.
IMG_20230518_123224985_BURST000_COVER.jpg
 






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